[PUNISHER08GT]

Ok guys here it is... I'm starting my quest for modding madness like everyone else, and have decided to go with the procharger. The struggle I'm having now is the engine build. At first I considered leaving the motor stock and just using a mild amount of boost to give it a little kick. However, I know that I will not be satisfied with that and have decided the long/short block need work. So here is what I need help with, seeing as how I only know how the engine internals work together in theory and don't have any technical know how:

The goal is to make the most amount of horsepower as is street legal and transferrable to the ground. Here's the questions:

1. Where should I start? I am thinking, cams, pistons, rods, heads, intake manifold. Anything else?
2. From what I know, I'll want forged internals to withstand the boost, but who is good?
3. There are so many companies that make cams, and so much data that goes with each cam. What is lift and all of that stuff that goes with cams? I don't know anything about how that all works.
4. Should I have the block bored while I have the guts out of it, or is it necessary?
5. Same question for stroke.
6. Should I stay with the p-1sc or should I upgrade to a unit capable of more boost since i'll be going terminator on the engine?

I know this is a huge post, but I hope there is one of you out there like me who loves getting dirty and has gone through all of this already and can shed some light on my modding dilemma.

[97Dustang]

1. yes cams, rods, pistons, heads, and an intake will do you good, you may also want to consider headers and full exhaust. I think (im not 100%) positive but i think that they stock crank is already forged (can anyone confirm this for me) if it is your good, if it isnt you may want to look at getting a forged crank, the rods are only as good as the crank you bolt them too.
2. I like the looks of modularmustangracing.com they seem to have a lot of good parts and sound like a reputable business. Also give AMP Performance a call at 1-800-454-8387 they have great customer service and will be sure to answer all of your questions and get you great deals on all the parts you need.
3. Comp cams seems to be the preferred brand for modular engines. Camshaft Choice - Camshaft Specifications - Guidelines - Hot Rod Magazine
that link may help you understand camshaft specifications a little better.
4. Having your block bored may be necessary but may not be, if you bore it out you displace a little more air which gives you more power, it also gives you a completely brand new cylinder so you dont have to worry about out of roudness or pitting or wear, it would probably be a good idea for you to go ahead and do that since everything is already apart anyways.
5. im not really sure what you are talking about here. You can only change stroke by buying different length rods, you will probably want to stick with the stock length of rod and get a dished piston so you have low compression ratio and lots of room for all that boost.
6.If it were me and money wasnt an issue i would get a bigger supercharger. You can push lots of boost through a p-1sc but your working it very hard, it would be much easier and reliable to but less boost through a bigger supercharger. plus then if you ever want more you can always just get a smaller pulley
hope this helped a little

[PUNISHER08GT]

Thanks that does help. I've self taught myself everything that I know from mustang mags and haynes manuals. I have a good idea of what I need and how it works, but it's getting to the point in my planning that I need to know the compatability of the parts that I want to put together, and I just don't have the experience for it. Thanks for that link, I will definitely be putting it to good use.

[Tre06GT]

You can buy complete rotating assemblies that will take care of the internals. Get a set of heads and cams. I have the Comp Cams SPR 127550 stage 2 blower grind. How much boost you want to run? I have the P1SC HO kit (not the upgraded Stage II) and I am making 14psi. I also have the C and L 3V intake manifold. Hope you are prepared to spend cause it will cost ya...LOL

[PUNISHER08GT]

Originally Posted by Tre06GT You can buy complete rotating assemblies that will take care of the internals. Get a set of heads and cams. I have the Comp Cams SPR 127550 stage 2 blower grind. How much boost you want to run? I have the P1SC HO kit (not the upgraded Stage II) and I am making 14psi. I also have the C and L 3V intake manifold. Hope you are prepared to spend cause it will cost ya...LOL

Basically my goal is to have around 600 rwhp. I was looking at cams and I actually like the comp cams, but it says the stage 2 requires a 3,000 stall, and I don't know anything about stall converters, and figured the stage 1 would be ok. At first I just wanted the 10psi from the p1sc because I didn't want to rip into the block, but now I've decided that I'd rather go through the block and beef it up just to make sure I'm prepared for the boost. With that I realized I'd be able to handle a lot more boost... and well my hp goals went up a little I didn't know that the p1sc could be tuned to put out more boost. Do you have meth injection?

It seems that you have achieved what I'm going for. What rotating assembly did you go with? Thanks for the insight, it's what I've been looking for.

[Tre06GT]

I went with the Probe 3.750 stroker assy. Iron 4.6L block bored .030 over. Stroked to a 302 basically. I got the smallest pulley from ProCharger for the P1SC HO (3.4 maybe cant remember). Was prepared to actually lose boost due to motor efficiency but was very surprised that it made 14. Not meth injected. Went with the FRRP twin 62mm TB, 60lb injectors, and GT500 fuel pumps. On the dyno at 7K fuel flow was at 90%, and thats with stock rails and lines. Livernois Stage 2 heads.

[PUNISHER08GT]

Originally Posted by Tre06GT I went with the Probe 3.750 stroker assy. Iron 4.6L block bored .030 over. Stroked to a 302 basically. I got the smallest pulley from ProCharger for the P1SC HO (3.4 maybe cant remember). Was prepared to actually lose boost due to motor efficiency but was very surprised that it made 14. Not meth injected. Went with the FRRP twin 62mm TB, 60lb injectors, and GT500 fuel pumps. On the dyno at 7K fuel flow was at 90%, and thats with stock rails and lines. Livernois Stage 2 heads.

Wow, that is really awesome! Have you had any problems with driveability? And you just had the factory block bored or did you pick up a different block? Also, have you heard of any 4 valve heads for this engine?

[Tre06GT]

The only problem in drivabilty is the lack of it. The car is in Texas Im in Iraq till april. Drove the hell out of it for two weeks while I was home over Christmas with no issues. I got the block from a friend of mine and it came out of an 04 (think it was an 04).

[PUNISHER08GT]

Originally Posted by Tre06GT The only problem in drivabilty is the lack of it. The car is in Texas Im in Iraq till april. Drove the hell out of it for two weeks while I was home over Christmas with no issues. I got the block from a friend of mine and it came out of an 04 (think it was an 04).

Funny it sounds like we have the same driveability issues... I'm stationed in Italy and the car's back in utah. I'm going to Afghanistan next Jan. But that's the nice thing about the desert, lots of money to play with when you get home . So why did you decide to put a different motor in it?

[Tre06GT]

Simple math

stock motor + P1SC = 450rwhp 11.8's to 12.0's
built motor + P1SC = 580ish 10.??

[PUNISHER08GT]

OK here's what I've decided to this point.

Rotating assembly-Livernois Motorsports
Heads-Livernois Motorsports
Cams- Comp Cams XFI blower grind stage II
Intake manifold- C&L
Meth injection- Snow performance

Now, I'm debating on whether or not to use the P1-SC or the D1-SC. I also don't know yet if I should use short or long tube headers.

[97Dustang]

d1-sc, go big or go home lol definately go with the long tubes

[Justdoit04]

long tubes with those kind of modifications

[86er]

Originally Posted by PUNISHER08GT OK here's what I've decided to this point. Rotating assembly-Livernois Motorsports Heads-Livernois Motorsports Cams- Comp Cams XFI blower grind stage II Intake manifold- C&L Meth injection- Snow performance Now, I'm debating on whether or not to use the P1-SC or the D1-SC. I also don't know yet if I should use short or long tube headers.

Honestly, I would just have your heads ported.

3v heads flow 224 on the intake and 158 on the exhaust.

if you look thats as good as the B head, and just a hair behind the tumble ports and C heads.

Dont spend 1500 on heads from some place, just have them cleaned up and ported

[Tre06GT]

Originally Posted by 86er Honestly, I would just have your heads ported. 3v heads flow 224 on the intake and 158 on the exhaust. if you look thats as good as the B head, and just a hair behind the tumble ports and C heads. Dont spend 1500 on heads from some place, just have them cleaned up and ported

the stage II's flow at 274/182 @ .500. I have a .547 lift cam. Plus the C and L intake along with the FRRP twin 62mm TB. All that plus the stroker kit I gained 150 HP. Now how much of that gain is cause of the heads who knows. But I definitely think those heads are a major contributor.

Punisher i think if you go with your setup you'll be happy. If you go with the P1 get it with the stage II kit. That will give you options to upgrade to the D1 later on. When I upgrade mine in 2011 im going with an F1! Oh and definitely go with the Long tubes.

[ndfrspd]

1. All sounds like a great start. Aluminum blocks are nice to start with. No the stock crank is not forged. You should buy a forged crank.

2. I wish i could help here but maybe google around some?

3. I would go with comp cams.

4. I wouldn't get the block bored and more unless there is damage to the cylinder walls or somethin...

5. If you have the money, get a stroker kit cause it will give you more displacement = more horsepower, it turns ur 4.6L into a 5.1L. Stage 3 motorsports has one, you gotta see if its a forged crank and rods in the kit they sell though.

6. the p-1sc is a good choice, but once again it all comes down to budget, if you got the loot maybe look at a bigger supercharger.

Originally Posted by PUNISHER08GT 1. Where should I start? I am thinking, cams, pistons, rods, heads, intake manifold. Anything else? 2. From what I know, I'll want forged internals to withstand the boost, but who is good? 3. There are so many companies that make cams, and so much data that goes with each cam. What is lift and all of that stuff that goes with cams? I don't know anything about how that all works. 4. Should I have the block bored while I have the guts out of it, or is it necessary? 5. Same question for stroke. 6. Should I stay with the p-1sc or should I upgrade to a unit capable of more boost since i'll be going terminator on the engine? I know this is a huge post, but I hope there is one of you out there like me who loves getting dirty and has gone through all of this already and can shed some light on my modding dilemma.

[Goblin]

Originally Posted by 97Dustang 1. yes cams, rods, pistons, heads, and an intake will do you good, you may also want to consider headers and full exhaust. I think (im not 100%) positive but i think that they stock crank is already forged (can anyone confirm this for me) if it is your good, if it isnt you may want to look at getting a forged crank, the rods are only as good as the crank you bolt them too. 2. I like the looks of modularmustangracing.com they seem to have a lot of good parts and sound like a reputable business. Also give AMP Performance a call at 1-800-454-8387 they have great customer service and will be sure to answer all of your questions and get you great deals on all the parts you need. 3. Comp cams seems to be the preferred brand for modular engines. Camshaft Choice - Camshaft Specifications - Guidelines - Hot Rod Magazine that link may help you understand camshaft specifications a little better. 4. Having your block bored may be necessary but may not be, if you bore it out you displace a little more air which gives you more power, it also gives you a completely brand new cylinder so you dont have to worry about out of roudness or pitting or wear, it would probably be a good idea for you to go ahead and do that since everything is already apart anyways. 5. im not really sure what you are talking about here. You can only change stroke by buying different length rods, you will probably want to stick with the stock length of rod and get a dished piston so you have low compression ratio and lots of room for all that boost. 6.If it were me and money wasnt an issue i would get a bigger supercharger. You can push lots of boost through a p-1sc but your working it very hard, it would be much easier and reliable to but less boost through a bigger supercharger. plus then if you ever want more you can always just get a smaller pulley hope this helped a little

While all this advice means well, its not completely accurate.

First, Rod length has nothing to do with stroke. You can change the rods 100 times while using a different length each time, and the piston will still travel the same distance in the cylinder.

Besides that, all else is good.

Boring? I wouldnt over-bore unless the cylinders are in need of correction. You will not see much of a gain from an over-bore. All of your gains will come from increased stroke (if you so decide) and by means of forced induction. If your looking for max power on pump gas (and street drivability) you should keep your power levels in the 450-500bhp range. Thats plenty to keep a smile on your face.

With that type of power, changing to forged pistons and rods are a good idea. It is not necessary that you do so, but wont hurt anything but your pockets. The stock cast crank will do just fine at those power levels. As far as camshafts and valve train, leave them alone as the stock components are adequate for your goal.

Intake? The stocker is fine too. Before you jump into spending so much money, really look at the 3v guys that are supercharging. They are making huge numbers, with very little changes in valvetrain and induction. 450hp is really just a bolt-on away for these cars. A full build really isnt necessary unless your goal is to reach 650+hp.

[PUNISHER08GT]

I agree with you, since that was my original plan. But my goal has now changed. I want to build the car to be a serious bruiser/street cruiser. Once I finish it I don't really have plans to use it as a regular daily driver. It will still get driven a lot, but for long trips and stuff, I have other vehicles for that kind of thing. I want to keep it fairly streetable but be able to throw in a different tune and bump up the boost and go blast up the track. I'm looking more into the 600 ish hp range. I hate to say that that would be enough, but I honestly think that without going full race that's plenty for me.

[ITS ME DAVID]

do you v8 heads do pnp on the heads ?

[Goblin]

Port the intake and polish the exhaust? Sure.