SN95 Custom Lighting How To
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Old October 24th, 2010, 04:55 AM   #1
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SN95 Custom Lighting How To


**First off I don't want to steal anyone's thunder and this guy did a fantastic how-to, so follow this guys steps for gauge cluster, and HVAC module:


SN95 LED Gauge Cluster

Something to add however:

If you have an auto like I do and you want you PRND12 to match, unscrew the bezeling that is around you gear selector. there should be torx screws at the top of the bezel. The piece is snap in form there on out, so be ginger about it, but pry it upwards. Then after that you should be able to look under the gear selector faceplate and see the bulb and socket, twist it out of socket, swap bulb, and TA-DA!

If you also want to redo your dome light at this time simply pop off the clear covering... you will see three festone style bulbs. One is 44mm in length (the center one) which comes on as your dome light. The other two are 42mm in length.


Thus for this part of the light rendition we have:

8 WLED-x5's (10 if you want to do the license plate lights since your ordering anyways) = 31.52 or 39.40

2 4211-x6's (map lights) = 7.40 (max)

1 4410-x9 (dome light) = 4.74 (max)

total: 51.50ish + S&H

*please note these are the prices from source: Super Bright LEDs ? LED Lights, Bulbs, and Accessories

Alot of people are also wondering what is up with the color change and what color lights they should get. Please keep in mind that the original bulb color for Ford vehicles was Amber, which when combined with the blueish dash inlay created that puke green color. Thus by choosing cool white as your LED color you will get, well cool blue on the lettering, and that LED white on your odometer and LED illumination only places.



As for the custom floor lighting kit here is the link to that: 7 Color 4pc Expandable LEDGlow LED Interior Lights Lighting Kit

1 4-Piece 7 color kit = 40.00 + S&H = 55.00 (note that any orders over 50 on the sight are free though..)

The kit actually has 7 colors built into it that will rotate if you want it too. I just happen to leave mine on a single color. The kit can strobe to music, fade in/out, flash various colors etc. It can also be expanded to 6 tubes per control box if desired. The kit only comes with 4 though.

**Please note that this how to kit is how to wire your floor lighting so that will turn on ANY time you have your dome light on. And.....is probably not the best write up, but its really easy, so don't worry, if you have questions just ask me!


Step 1: Locate your dome light wire
Underneath the drivers side A pillar molding (note that this is on metal pop tab's, so careful, but it will come off) there should be a black wire with a blue tracer, this should be the wire you need to splice into. (test with a volt meter to make sure...my car's wiring is f'd up, and make sure that your car door is open when testing this, volts should drop to zero on this wire when you close the door)


Step 2: Splice and run brain box
First off your are going to want to snake your power wire up into the A pillar from under your dash. After doing this splice your power wire into your dome light wire. Now that this is done you may put your A pillar molding back on, you are done there. But then you must choose a place to mount your brain box, I chose the glove compartment because it is easily accessible and is still a very well hidden spot. Where ever you choose to put it though make sure that you snake your wire accordingly. Then you can either splice the ground wire into an existing ground wire or bolt it to the body via a pre-existing bolt on the chassis (which is what I did)


Step 3: The hub & connecting it
Being that you are lighting the floor it is obvious that you want all your connections to be hidden to make it look professional. Thus the easiest place to mount you hub is in the center console. Simply remove the inner sleeve via the screws under the rubber stoppers and remove the pocket. You will notice that you have ample room in there to put the hub! After you have mounted this to the inner wall or your center counsels outer shell, snake the hubs connecting wire to the brain box. Since my brain box was in the glove compartment, I simply followed the center console all the way up, wires were perfectly hidden.


Step 4: connecting your light bars (rear foot wells)
Since we mounted the connecting hub in the center console the lighting for the rear seats are easily hidden. Simply mount the bars to the metal brackets on the back side of the 2 front seats with the wires closest to the center console, feed wires under the lip of the console and tada! instant access to the hub! (be sure to leave some slack in the wire line though, that way it can move with the chairs as they are adjusted from person to person.


Step 5: connecting your light bars (front foot wells)
For the drivers side:
snag a 1"x2-2.5"x2-3mm thick piece of metal and drill a screw hole in it so that a T15 torx screw can thread through it. you will need it in order to create a mounting spot for your light bar. This piece of metal will then be attached between the plastic body molding and the original metal body bracket on the right hand side of the drivers side foot well, and should be held in place by the screw to tighten it all up. (its the only body panel screw in the area.) When you mount this light bar you will be mounting the one side of the bar on the edge of your fuse panel (the part that doesn't pop off) and the other to the new metal *tab* that you just installed. run your wire down the side of the center console and connect it. Bam! 1 more to go!

For the passenger side just mount the light bar to either the bottom mounting bracket of your glove box, or to the floor air vent on the left hand side and the wiring harness on the right hand side (this is what I did because it is more hidden this way). Run wires accordingly to the hub and your done!


Step 6: Put it all back together now
kinda self explanatory. Put the inner center console box back in place and tidy up the rest of your pony!

Now being that they are LED's they don't draw a lot of power, which is why i don't mind that this mod is splicing into a 16 gauge wire. I also replaced my dome light with an LED so the draw on the wire in question is considerably less. All in all with the addition of the floor lights and the use of the LED dome light, it uses about the same amount of power as the original bulb in strictly the dome light, making no fuse modification or relay wiring necessary.

Photos:



total for full modification of lighting in car = 105ish (c'mon tell me that that aint worth it!)
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Last edited by UnSungHero48; October 24th, 2010 at 12:11 PM.
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Old November 4th, 2010, 03:36 AM   #2
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no input? or details of anyone running into trouble?
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Old November 4th, 2010, 07:45 AM   #3
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damn that looks nice....

im just not sure what color to use for my int.
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Old November 4th, 2010, 09:36 PM   #4
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the kit that I use is a 7 color kit, so you can choose between the seven colors and pause it on a color, or you can let it cycle through the colors based on sound, or a time interval.
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Old November 5th, 2010, 07:27 AM   #5
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Looks rad, good job.
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Old November 5th, 2010, 10:14 AM   #6
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Looks good. Not something i would put in my Mustang though.
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Old November 7th, 2010, 02:32 AM   #7
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why did you buy 4 instead of 2? and where did you put them all?
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Old November 7th, 2010, 01:04 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by brody904 View Post
why did you buy 4 instead of 2? and where did you put them all?
do you mean all the LED tubes? if so that's because i lit up the rear floor wells as well.

(also these tubes are semi weather proof...seal the ends a lil better and you can throw them in the grill of you car to give back light to your pony. I have the billet grill insert so i think it'd look killer, did it to a bud's scion tc that had the honey comb grille and it was sick! So I was going to do that with the spare money I had until i found metal rot on my car!!!! Now spare money is repair money.)

Actually if someone wanted to there was a flexible LED tape-like product that I saw floating around on a forum a while ago, apparently you can run it like a string, only its dimensions are in the mm thick category. And apparently you can cut it to fit the sizing applications that you want. Once I get my car re-done I'm doing that set up, in orange to match the car color.
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Old November 18th, 2010, 09:50 PM   #9
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i did something similar to this in my 00' but i did it in blue, i love it and yours is very clean!
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Old December 31st, 2010, 01:19 AM   #10
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for those who want to see it inaction,heres on my car. suggest you mute.
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Old December 31st, 2010, 01:21 AM   #11
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and for step 4 on the light bar setup, i put them inback of somebodys legs like under the lip of the rear seat on the carpet and ran the wire under the seat and thru the rear hump.either way works =p
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Old February 16th, 2011, 06:49 PM   #12
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ya i didnt do i that way cuz i thought that they would be to easily seen. but otherwise was the no pic write up easy to follow?
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Old February 16th, 2011, 07:26 PM   #13
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pics are always more helpful, but it looks pretty easy to follow.
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Old February 16th, 2011, 10:02 PM   #14
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I just did the dome lights and whatnot.
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