What are the best mods for better handling?
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Old July 17th, 2011, 12:24 AM   #1
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What are the best mods for better handling?


As the title says what are the best mods for better handling? I already have subframe connectors. So list away.
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Old July 17th, 2011, 12:36 AM   #2
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Tires tires tires.
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Old July 17th, 2011, 12:49 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Street Jesus View Post
Tires tires tires.
Any recommendations on what kind? I'm not going to be street racing or road racing so I'd want something where the tread will at least last a decent amount of time.
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Old July 17th, 2011, 01:48 AM   #4
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The Kumho Ecsta AST has awesome grip and is pretty decent on tread wear.
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Old July 17th, 2011, 11:36 AM   #5
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i have no complaints regarding falken azenis tires.. little to no noise, mad life, and superb grip
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Old July 17th, 2011, 12:06 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by V8ornothing View Post
Any recommendations on what kind? I'm not going to be street racing or road racing so I'd want something where the tread will at least last a decent amount of time.
what kind of ride quality are you looking for, you have subframe connectors, but then say your not gonna do any kind of racing..not judging or anything. just trying to figure out what you want for a setup...just an agressive driver??. take a lot of hard corners and braking etc...?
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Old July 17th, 2011, 12:10 PM   #7
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any ways...lower it - ur choice of springs. i personally like the h&r supersports, ur could get the steeda bumpsteer kit also for after you lower it. the steeda x2 ball joints have good things said about them. get a strut tower brace too.
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Old July 17th, 2011, 12:11 PM   #8
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my tokico hp shocks and struts alone helped dramatically around hard corners over my worn out stock ones..its like its on rails compared to old ones
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Old July 17th, 2011, 02:17 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by cschoening09 View Post
what kind of ride quality are you looking for, you have subframe connectors, but then say your not gonna do any kind of racing..not judging or anything. just trying to figure out what you want for a setup...just an agressive driver??. take a lot of hard corners and braking etc...?
subrame connectors are welded in from po
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Old July 17th, 2011, 08:23 PM   #10
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V8...

What are the ULTIMATE goals for your ride?

One can spend many, many, MANY thousands of dollars on the persuit of the perfect corner. Ultimately, the driver is the greatest single mod in carving a corner. I would put tires as second, but I do understand your question.

Your budget is also a HUGE part of this equasion ... so what is it?

Jazzer
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"... although Jazzer's view is a little skewed since he pushes his car HARD so his opinion as to what works is more rooted in extreme circumstances!
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Old July 17th, 2011, 11:46 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Jazzer The Cat View Post
V8...

What are the ULTIMATE goals for your ride?

One can spend many, many, MANY thousands of dollars on the persuit of the perfect corner. Ultimately, the driver is the greatest single mod in carving a corner. I would put tires as second, but I do understand your question.

Your budget is also a HUGE part of this equasion ... so what is it?

Jazzer
I want less body roll not that there is a huge amount unless I'm pushing it but I wan't less and I'd like it to hold in corners I'm accelerating through.
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Old July 17th, 2011, 11:52 PM   #12
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coil over fronts with a decent springs and get a decent set of control arms in the rear. After that throw in your pick of shocks/struts and your car will be completely different.
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Old July 18th, 2011, 01:28 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by DickH View Post
coil over fronts with a decent springs and get a decent set of control arms in the rear. After that throw in your pick of shocks/struts and your car will be completely different.
What exactly do control arms do and how difficult would you say they are to install?
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Old July 18th, 2011, 06:27 PM   #14
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The rear control arms control how the rear axle behaves/moves. Stock control arms let the axle move around a lot more than you would think, replacing just the control arms will give a very noticable improvement. They are not hard to change, but make sure your day is clear in case you have problems. Hardest part would be if you have a bolt that wont come out, second hardest part would be setting pinion angle (not too hard).
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Old July 23rd, 2011, 12:09 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by V8ornothing View Post
I want less body roll not that there is a huge amount unless I'm pushing it but I wan't less and I'd like it to hold in corners I'm accelerating through.
Far and away, the primary issue with cornering on the pre-S197 Stang.... is the quadra-bind 4-link out back

You are looking at about..... $1500 or so. This would be a set of FLSFC's, PHB/TA and new springs out back as the OEM ones are really too light for a TA.

Jazzer wondering if V8 knows his suspension acronyms
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"... although Jazzer's view is a little skewed since he pushes his car HARD so his opinion as to what works is more rooted in extreme circumstances!
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Old July 23rd, 2011, 12:14 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Jazzer The Cat View Post
Far and away, the primary issue with cornering on the pre-S197 Stang.... is the quadra-bind 4-link out back

You are looking at about..... $1500 or so. This would be a set of FLSFC's, PHB/TA and new springs out back as the OEM ones are really too light for a TA.

Jazzer wondering if V8 knows his suspension acronyms
Nope you lost me after quadra-bind 4-link
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Old July 23rd, 2011, 12:14 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Jazzer The Cat View Post
Far and away, the primary issue with cornering on the pre-S197 Stang.... is the quadra-bind 4-link out back

You are looking at about..... $1500 or so. This would be a set of FLSFC's, PHB/TA and new springs out back as the OEM ones are really too light for a TA.

Jazzer wondering if V8 knows his suspension acronyms
He said he already had SFC though he didn't mention if they were full length or not. If it is only a car meant to handle and you don't plan on ever seeing any 1/4 track then go all out and get the LCAs with the cool bushings.

FLSFC = Full Length Subframe Connector
PHB = Pan-Hard bar
TA = Torque Arm

Battling Acronyms one letter at a time
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Old July 23rd, 2011, 01:58 PM   #18
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^ werd, ma homie

LCA's are not gonna do a whole lot for cornering, but are certainly not a bad mod. For the single best upgrade from where V8 is currently, the mods mentioned are gonna do it. Now, this is a pretty good investment, but you wanna take corners, you need to lose the 4-link suspension out back.

That hideous little set-up creates bind upon hard body-roll and induces snap-steer issues at the far end of rear-axle articulation.

Peep this vid at about :28 seconds in..


The snap steer in the pre-S197 Mustang is generated by body roll so far as the 4-link hits its limit and "bites" hard to suddenly "stop" the rolling action. The car responds by suddenly jerking back the opposite direction = bad thing

Jazzer

EDIT: Here is a better example of how bad it can be and how easy it is to lose control of your ride. See about :50 seconds in:

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Originally Posted by Novanutcase View Post
"... although Jazzer's view is a little skewed since he pushes his car HARD so his opinion as to what works is more rooted in extreme circumstances!

Last edited by Jazzer The Cat; July 23rd, 2011 at 02:05 PM.
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Old July 23rd, 2011, 02:44 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by XectriK View Post
He said he already had SFC though he didn't mention if they were full length or not. If it is only a car meant to handle and you don't plan on ever seeing any 1/4 track then go all out and get the LCAs with the cool bushings.

FLSFC = Full Length Subframe Connector
PHB = Pan-Hard bar
TA = Torque Arm

Battling Acronyms one letter at a time
Xectrik
That's because I don't know if they are full length or not is there a way for me to tell? PO just told me it had welded subframe connectors. Can someone explain what a pan hard bar is and what torque arms are. Sorry for the noob questions
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Old July 23rd, 2011, 04:14 PM   #20
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I am sure there is some info on them in The Official Suspension Guide, but if not, look ***HERE**

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