How would you finish this build?
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Old August 30th, 2011, 04:29 PM   #1
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How would you finish this build?


I've finally figured out what I eventually want to build (won't bore you with the rest of the details here), and I'm just researching some of the specifics. Right now this is purely mental masturbation, so don't take it too seriously, lol.

What I'd like to build is a reliable, light-weight 4.6L for autocross type runs (lots of WOT, occasional bouncing off limiter). Priorities are:
#1 Has to be 100% Cali-legal for anything visible, and anything hidden still needs to allow the motor to pass the sniffer.
#2 Reliability above all. No point in building this if it's just gonna grenade in 10k miles.
#3 Light weight (why I'm thinking an aluminum block under a 2v and not a 4v)

My thought so far is starting with either a Teskid shortblock or Aluminator stuffed with stock 2v internals then topping that with TF heads... and that's about as far as I've got. LTs will be totally out of the equation, figure shorties or stock manifolds and definitely stock catted mid-pipe.

Not really going for power here, but 300 at the crank would be nice, and if it's the same money to build an equally reliable/light-weight 350hp motor or 270hp motor, I'll certainly go with the former.

Best gas around here is 91, so keep that in mind for CR.

I'm not interested in debating this against a 3 or 4v, just what can be done with a 2v.

Thanks for any input!
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Old August 30th, 2011, 07:47 PM   #2
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Pick up a mark 8 motor from a salvage yard, get a good set of aftermarket heads with agressive cams, intake, even just a set of shorties and you wouldnt be far from your goals.
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Old August 30th, 2011, 09:49 PM   #3
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Also here is a good site to find used motors, it searches local salvage yards. Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
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Old August 30th, 2011, 09:51 PM   #4
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if you're not planing on going forced induction or forged pistons/rods, what was listed above would be a good choice. already a teskid block so there's your light weight.

this could be a fun project!!!
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Old August 30th, 2011, 11:00 PM   #5
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If I go 4v, I'll just start with a Cobra, I'm not at all interested in doing a swap.
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Old August 30th, 2011, 11:14 PM   #6
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WAP/NVH aluminum block
stock cast crank
forged I-beam rods
-10cc dished pistons
ported pi heads (cost effective and great tq)
MHS stage 1 or 2 cams

that would be a strong 300/325 and rev to 6k reliably. cali emissions/tuning will be the determining factor of how much cam you can put into it. that also determines power and where the power is at.
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Old August 30th, 2011, 11:30 PM   #7
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I say go with the 4v, boltons set of mild cams, and short runner intake. Reliable, mild for the street, and will exceeed your power goals. Otherwise I say a 2v with a positive displacement blower...
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Old August 31st, 2011, 01:07 AM   #8
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I see where hes coming from not wanting to go with the 4valve cost too much in the long run and a 2 valve is more than enough to reach his goals.
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Old August 31st, 2011, 01:10 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by ReverendDexter View Post
If I go 4v, I'll just start with a Cobra, I'm not at all interested in doing a swap.
When i mentioned the mark 8 motor i meant swapping on aftermarket ported 2 valve heads and ditching the 4v heads. There has to be some modification to the cooling passages but not very complicated and im sure you will find plenty of info about it on here.
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Old August 31st, 2011, 01:18 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by futureMACH1racer View Post
I say go with the 4v, boltons set of mild cams, and short runner intake. Reliable, mild for the street, and will exceeed your power goals. Otherwise I say a 2v with a positive displacement blower...
PD blower will be just little too much for the AX stuff. the 2v makes plenty to tq, last thing he needs is tire blowering tq when he starts to lay into it. if boost was to be looked at, then this is where the centri would shine.
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Old August 31st, 2011, 01:19 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by 4valvegt View Post
When i mentioned the mark 8 motor i meant swapping on aftermarket ported 2 valve heads and ditching the 4v heads. There has to be some modification to the cooling passages but not very complicated and im sure you will find plenty of info about it on here.
not hard. just drill one hole in the left side deck for the cooling passage.
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Old August 31st, 2011, 01:40 AM   #12
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This is my idea for a build too! Tfs 2v with an aluminum shortblock (forged internals though to wring more rev's out of it), a nice intake and a whole lot of suspension parts. I think you're basically on the money for your purposes. You'll be over the 300whp mark, but are aftermarket heads and cams smog legal?
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Old August 31st, 2011, 01:47 AM   #13
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forged internals as in crank as well? the forged crank is heavier, forged pistons are lighter but not something needed or that will really matter as much. I-beam rods are plenty strong enough and lighter than H-beams as ewll. tfs heads arent something i would really invest in unless you plan on boost or really wanting/needing to rev out.
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Old August 31st, 2011, 09:24 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by 4valvegt View Post
When i mentioned the mark 8 motor i meant swapping on aftermarket ported 2 valve heads and ditching the 4v heads.
Ah, okay, that makes a lot more sense

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG View Post
forged internals as in crank as well? the forged crank is heavier, forged pistons are lighter
Wait, what? Since when are forged pistons lighter than hyperuetectic? I know the material itself is more dense, which means that assuming they're milled into the same shape, a forged slug is gonna be heavier. Though it would make sense to me if piston manufacturers were taking advantage of the stronger material and milling forged pistons smaller/thinner... is that the case?

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG View Post
tfs heads arent something i would really invest in unless you plan on boost or really wanting/needing to rev out.
I thought the only 2v options out there were TFs or various versions of ported stockers. What head would you recommend?
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Old August 31st, 2011, 03:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG View Post
forged internals as in crank as well? the forged crank is heavier, forged pistons are lighter but not something needed or that will really matter as much. I-beam rods are plenty strong enough and lighter than H-beams as ewll. tfs heads arent something i would really invest in unless you plan on boost or really wanting/needing to rev out.
Planning on a centri setup.
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Old August 31st, 2011, 03:26 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by nileppezdel77 View Post
but are aftermarket heads and cams smog legal?
Heh, everyone seems to think that *everything* is illegal out here.

TF heads are CARB approved.

I've never looked into 2v cams, but I know there's quite a few pushrod cams that are CARB approved.

Pretty much any of the popular, name-brand stuff is legal here, outside of LT headers or aftermarket cats (or anything that deletes cats).

It's only a pain in the ass if you have an unpopular car, or an unpopular engine for a car (like the TBI 350 in my Buick - all the CARB approved parts are for either carb'd motors or the LT1). But for a Mustang? It's really not that bad.
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Old August 31st, 2011, 05:40 PM   #17
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I just imagine storm troopers standing by the exits of a white room, your car on a lift as a pasty looking rat faced man in a lab coat inspects your car. Then, if he finds something awry your car is crushed and the stormtroopers take you out back and put two in your head.
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Old August 31st, 2011, 06:51 PM   #18
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https://www.patriot-performance.com/...&cat=30&page=1
I ran these on my 01 gt with comp stage 2 cams and had good luck with them. They are a ported stock casting but who really cares when they work?
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Old August 31st, 2011, 07:13 PM   #19
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This was the setup with professional products intake, 75mm tb, bbk longtubes.
SANY0016-1.mp4 video by taylorb765 - Photobucket
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