[Korishan]

This is a post from another bulletin, tryin to get as much info as possible here.
Post 1:
Ok, here's the scoop. I'll do a rundown of everything that's happened. A bit lengthy.

Alright, replaced the U-Joints, apparently putting a hairline fracture in the yoke during re-assembly. Was driving 75mpg, fracture shattered, took out the transmission in the process, and also my two rear O2 sensors.

Now, I bought an '02 interceptor 4r70w to replace. Didn't realize there was a difference in the lengths (shortened driveshaft already), Valve Body pin out (purchased new plug from dealership for the '02), purchased new MLP's switch.

Ok, before I installed the new VB plug, I had re-wired to the diagram on the tccoa page showing the re-pinning of the 92-96 to 97+ pins. Which, happens to be incorrect, from what I've found out. Had to go with the pin outs from p71interceptor dot com. Before the new plug, my O/D light was on. After the new plug, the O/D light is no longer on. Assuming the pins are connected correctly now(?).

The check engine light is on, probly from the lack of the two rear O2 sensors, and possible other issues. I cannot start the car in Park, but can start in Neutral. When in Neutral or Park, RPM's around 700, shift into R or D, RPM's drop to about 500, then climb to ~850. Shift back into Neutral/Park, RPM's drop to ~700. When in R, no movement at all. Even at 3k RPM's. Put into D, rev to ~3k RPM's, and it starts to creep forward.

Any ideas on this one? I haven't gotten a ODBII reader yet, so I don't know what the codes are. Could I have possibly fried any of the solenoids in the VB by having it mis-wired? Any suggestions, hints, tips, or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Post 2:

Ok, here's the update.
Got a code reader. Found out my wiring was incorrect. Purple/Orange and Grey/Orange wires look the same when they are faded. had to slice open the wire harness to look farther up and get a "clean" unfaded view of the wires. That problem went away.
Found out I still needed to put another 3 quarts of fluid in. Did that, and when i dropped into Drive, it wanted to lunge forward. Good news! I didn't have to rev it up to make it move.
Now, it still wouldn't go into Reverse. I was thinking "maybe" there were air bubbles in the line or something. So, pushed it back out of it's space, and drove it forward.
It wouldn't come out of first gear at first. I drove it down the road about 1/5 mile. Got to about 3500rpms, 30mph. Didn't shift Out of 1st gear.
Turned around, started back. Got a little faster than 30mph, probly 35. It shifted into 2nd, lunged a little bit. Got to about 40mph, and lost horsepower. It wouldn't accelerate above 40ish, and rpms were around 2500. I pressed down on the gas, and it didn't move much faster. A few moments later (about 15 seconds in 2nd gear), I feel it drop out of gear, rpms rose and i removed my foot off the gas. I pressed down a few times to see if it'd drop back into gear, and it didn't.
Once I got down to about 25mph, it shifted back into 1st gear, and I could accelerate again up to 35mph and it shift into 2nd again. A few seconds later, it dropped out again.
I pulled back into the yard, came to a stop. Noticed that when I was in Drive and foot on the brake, the rpms dropped down to about 400, motor started shuttering, and shut off as the rpms kept going down. Put it in Neutral, started back up. Put into Drive, rpms dropped below 500 again. Put back into Neutral, resumed rpms around 700-800. Put it in Reverse, and I felt and heard it shift into gear, but it didn't move. I reved it up a few times, no motion.
I pulled forward up into my parking spot, and I could hear a little whining noise coming from the tranny. Like that of when you drive in reverse and it whines a little. But I was in Neutral at the time when I heard this. Now I couldn't get an exact sound and loudness because my exhaust has a hole in it atm.
MIL came on again, checked the codes, only thing showing up was in reference to my O2's not functioning correctly.

Ok, anyone have any ideas as to what is going on here????

Ohh, btw, this is the original Torque converter from my old tranny with this OEM built 2002 interceptor tranny. Shortened the driveshaft to accommodate, repined the Valve Body Connector (hince the error with the purple & gray connections)

[Korishan]

update, got it home. Had to drive about 30mph. The motor ran a little hotter than normally, good thing it was nice and cool out. It also sputtered and the car shook a little when going up hills. It would shift into 2nd gear once reaching 31mph at first. After shifting about 3 times, it started shifting into 2nd at 25mph. If it reached about 40mph, it would drop out of gear if i was accelerating somewhat gently. If i was doing a moderate to fast acceleration, it'd drop out at about 47mph. Once speed reached back to 31mph, it'd drop back into 2nd gear. Also, during a harder acceleration, the car would shutter a little bit. Never dropped to 1st unless speed reached about 10mph. At the lights, i had to put it into neutral because it would almost shut the motor off. I rev'd to about 1000rpm, and shifted into D, and it would do a firm/hard shift. Barked the tires a little while i had by foot on the brake the first time. That rev was about 1200rpms.
It was mentioned to me by dirtyd0g (from tccoa forums) that it sounds like the reverse drum (i think he said) is probly not seated properly. So, I guess I'm going to have to have it taken to a local shop to do a "corrective rebuild" on it. Ugh!!