[finally03gt]

I am preparing to do a drop. This car is daily driven in Houston, so I don't want to go much more than 1.5". I also know that I want to go with adjustable rate struts/shocks, but not go as far as coil overs. I've heard Eibach Pro is a good drop spring, and Tokico D-spec has a good dampner. Also considering a panhard for the rear, and MAYBE some sub-connectors and a tower brace. Also, with this drop, is bump steer going to be and issue and/or do I need to be looking at ball joint extenders. Finally, suggestions on caster/camber plates. Ideas and comments please..........

[SWEET2KSTANG]

no need for cc plates for 1.5 or less, recommended for 1.5 and needed for more than 1.5. i run the frpp c-springs, i have no complaints about them at all. bumpsteer is pretty bad with my car, i recommend the ball joint kit. strut tower brace is not a huge deal. i was able to tell a nice difference with my subframe connectors.

[ReverendDexter]

is this for looks or performance?

If it's the former, do what you will.

If it's the latter, stay AWAY from adjustable shocks! Shocks should be matched to your springs, not compensating for them. The quality that you'll get at the same price for non-adjustables more than makes up for any benefit of the adjustability.

[finally03gt]

I'm doing it for both, but more interested in performance. I'm not trying to build a track car, but a fun to drive DD that will handle dodging road debris and hard braking when that idot in front of you decides to use his brakes to get on the freeway. I am also a bit of a perfectionist, and like things done RIGHT, not just done. On the topic of subframe connectors........where do you take the car to have them welded on??

[XpipeCobra]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter is this for looks or performance? If it's the former, do what you will. If it's the latter, stay AWAY from adjustable shocks! Shocks should be matched to your springs, not compensating for them. The quality that you'll get at the same price for non-adjustables more than makes up for any benefit of the adjustability.

Great advice, I concur!

[ModMustang97GT]

There is nothing wrong with adjustables. The Tokico D spec are a fantastic Shock. They will outperform most non-adjustable's out there. The only thing I will say about the adjustable is, it probably is not worth it. If you are like the average person, you are never going to adjust the shocks. What would you need to with a road driven car? Are you going to customize your rebound for when the car is loaded down for a road trip? A good quality shock like Bilstein is a very good non-adjustable shock. But, despite that fact that you can't adjust it, it adjusts to the driving conditions. IE: It gets stiffer when you need to be and stiffer when it needs to be.

Have you looked up The Official Suspension Guide? it covers alot of this. As for the drop height. Good call, 1.5" is a safe bet. However Long Tubes will greatly lower your effective drive height if you have them or plan to get them. Expect about 1-1.5" loss of clearance.

You do not need CC plates, although it never hurts to get them. They are a good part and they do have a purpose. However, for a daily driver, you are mainly just concerned with getting it aligned, and you won't have an issue with that.

The panhard bar is an awesome change, even without New control arms. THe panhard bar makes your rear end predictable. You only lose traction when the tires lose traction rather than when the suspension unloads for whatever reason. This makes it MUCH easier to predict the car's movement.

Before I did the panhard bar though, I would recommend getting subframe connectors. Unless you have a MACH1. You don't have them stock and they will help alot to solidify your car's movement. Always worth the money. Its only like $300 to buy and have a shop weld them in.

The strut tower brace, like the subframe connectors will solidify the car as a whole, as well as add some predictability to the car's movement. Less likely you will notice as much as the subframe connectors though.

[ModMustang97GT]

As a brief sum up. I would start out with the Chassis Stiffening set up from Maximum Motorsports. That will make your car stiffer and make all of your components work together, and multiply the effect of all the suspension changes you make from then on. Then I would suggest lowering springs and shocks. I am a big fan of H&R and Bilstein. Although Tokico and Eibach also make very good parts. After that, you have some choices. Mainly, street or strip? A street car, wants turning, a strip car wants launching. Launching means less sway bar, more weight transfer, less axle wind up. Handling means, no weight transfer, perfect balance and predictability. Ultimately you want all the mods in the end, but certain ones are more important depending on where you go. For turning, id get sway bars, then panhard bar, then LC's then a torque arm. For street Id never get the sway bars, do the LC's, torque arm and panhard bar (required for Torque arm). Hope this helps.

If you have any specific questions on components I am happy to help.

[NO_PI_NO_POWER]

I have Eibach Pro-kit , and Tokico D-spec's. I very much enjoy them, the car is much more fun to drive, and they work great at the track, they dont go quite as soft as some of the drag combos out there, but for a DD its a pretty great option.