[DickH]

Ok, im sitting here 100% confident that I can pull off making my own watts link/torque arm. Have done half the measuring I need, started to price materials and really can't wait to start. Everything is good but I cant find a place that outright sells the spherical rod ends. I am going to check work tomorrow to see if they can order some for me if I pay. We have them at work, but they are for machines and not for my pocket so hopefully they will let me buy some. This may take a month or so, im just going to poke at it from time to time, and my car wont be anywhere near where I will be working so hopefully my measurements are close enough. Hopefully this will all cost under 300 bucks, a much better deal than 1k already made.

I am really fond of copying this setup, looks easy and should stay fairly cheap.

[Jazzer The Cat]

Sounds nice

The lower pic is a Griggs set-up, I recognize it from their shoppe. I am curious, is the torque arm ONLY held by the single bolt coming from the back? That I would like to see something heavier than that on my ride. Overall it just doesn't look very stout to me. I like your idea, but would beef it up a bit to be sure it doesn't have issues under heavy load.

Jazzer wishes you luck

[Racinjason81]

try summit racing.com you could get spherical rod ends what ever size you need

[DickH]

Oh I found some and have already ordered them. I'm waiting to get a back cover to the differential so I can make measurements and decidide on what dimensions I need to order the metal in. I think the $300 goal still looks reasonable, but I haven't worked in the torque arm, I'll probably go over a bit. Cost so far, 185ish.

[casper gt]

just curious but since every other post I've ever seen of yours is drag related why would you want to over complicate things so much? a good set of lowers & some adjustable uppers (even better a baseline upper kit) & your done. it's cool if you just like fabricating stuff, but like I said I was just curious.

[DickH]

Well I do have adjustable uppers and lowers, I just have all winter of not driving and want to do something. This will help me out right? I like the idea of making things for my car to make it more mine than the previous owners.

[casper gt]

not a drag oriented set up by any means will it help you? don't know. I do know 3 local guys who have tried simular set ups & were sorry( for drag racing anyway) 2 changed back & 1 ended up selling the car.

[Jazzer The Cat]

Originally Posted by DickH "... I just have all winter of not driving and want to do something. This will help me out right? I like the idea of making things for my car to make it more mine than the previous owners.

This is totally cool

I am EXACTLY the same way for the same reasons. My car is customized in many ways. From the HID headlight install that can have simultaneous high-beam/low-beam function, custom foglight install that oporates with high-beams running to 100 other things that make me proud to be a complete mod-man with my ride!

Keep it up and do us proud

The Jazzer

[DickH]

How is it not better? I have not found anyone that has done this and given any opinion so I'm not completely sure. What I have read about these setups implies they are an improvement over using upper/lower control arms.

[Jazzer The Cat]

I am not into the 1/4 thing, but cannot imagine it will not be of some benifit. The 4-link set-up sucks as it was designed. The proposed set-up will allow the suspension to move as it is supposed to move and how the 4-link would allow it to move if it was to allow it to move?!?!?!

Jazzer

[DickH]

Yeah from what I have read, the way ford shipped it isn't that great. It all binds up and somewhere I read that it can move out of place by about 2 inches almost any direction. The setup im trying to copy is supposed to hold everything where it should be and not bind up at all. From what I have read this should allow for better launches as the axle should stay center and not make the rear end move side to side, allowing the wheels to push the car straight instead of mostly straight. Though I could be completely wrong, all I have done is read and I haven't talked to anyone who has this setup.

[Jazzer The Cat]

The stock 4-link set-up will not allow the axle to move laterally 2", but pretty much keeps the axle from articulating much more than that

If anyone were to look at the stock set-up and visualize articulation, there would be no doubt why the WL/torque-arm is a much improved system. I think the big difference between why I ditched the 4-link and why YOU are ditching it are different, but will see benifits in both camps.

Jazzer

[03_StangGuy]

The watts link should be any better or worse than better control arms. If your really into suspension you may be able to get a bit better tractino with adjustable upper and lower control arms. The Watts link will def help and be better than stock. I dont know how it affects tuning for the strip though, street manners will def improve though.

[DickH]

ok so you have a wattslink setup? How do you like it? Any noticable difference?

[Jazzer The Cat]

Me?

Nope. I opted for the PHB as I didn't want to lose the spare tire well required by the WL. I have been meaning to talk to John Griggs about squeezing one in place of PHB, but haven't done it yet. I actually talked to him today and forgot to ask.

I will fire him off an e-mail this evening and see if it is possible. If he can do it, I WILL install one.

Jazzer

[DickH]

You lose the spare tire well? Ill have to look under my car again, but I didn't think it would be a problem.

[Jazzer The Cat]

Well not completeley, but you lose about 1/3 of it on the axle side. Griggs welds a plate and unless I have a Flintstones spare, it wouldn't fit. This is due to the size of the frame used to support it. The pic above, if you look closely, is completely functionless and just a display. You can see the angled cross-member brace is directly above the diff cover and the linkage would not be allowed to move upward.

I have not seen one of the Griggs ones in a while and forget why the frame is so deep as needs to cut into the well. I did put an e-mail to John last night and hopefully can work with him to shrink the frame enough to fit. My g/f and I do LOTS of driving and will not travel w/o a spare. I actually had to order a Cobra spare and purchase a 1" spacer with a set of extra-deep Crager type lugs to install it due to 4 piston Brembos up front. The places we go in my ride are not tow-truck/flatbed friendly. Besides, I would not be too excited to watch some dude rip my facia to shreds picking up my ride!.

Jazzer...... not looking for a lift

[03_StangGuy]

Jazzer that may be the case with the Griggs kit but Evo and FAYS2 both make bolt in kits that work wit a catback exhaust. Griggs Watts link is fairly old and the design has been improved upon. I wonder if a kit like the Techco kit for the S197 would work on the new edge. Its a lots less combersome than the current kits made.

[Jazzer The Cat]

Well, I am still waiting to hear back from John, as I just now checked my mail. I don't think I would be willing to go with another brand as I already have a VERY heavy duty frame welded into place for my current PHB. I figure that Griggs would just modify it slightly and adapt for the WL.

I don't see myself going this route if I cannot get the Griggs one. The suspension system is soo top-notch, I would not want to go with anything else. I wll poke my head under there this w/e as I am doing research for my T-56 install next month. I will see if I can come up with an idea to make the Griggs WL work.

Jazzer

[03_StangGuy]

Gl with the install. For the T-56 check this likn out, someone on another forum was looking into it. Its pretty simple and will be my next mod. ??2002 Mustang GT T56 Trans Conversion?? - ModularFords.com