[RFM 40th V6]

ESTIMATED COMPLETION DATE IS END OF APRIL!

I bought the car back in Febuary of last year as a wholesale from the dealer I work for. Total price for the car was $1920, which wasn't bad for the condition it was in.

Needed some minor repairs and the paint is pretty bad. Tires, brakes, intake manifold... that sort of stuff.

A few months after I bought it I swapped in some MHS stage 3 heads with Hi Tech stage 2 cams and BBK LT headers, 24# injectors and 255 fuel pump I put down 315/345.

Of course that wasn't enough, so I added a 150 shot for some fun.

But now the time has come to get away from refiling my fun button. I've decided to go turbo with my setup. Yes it's an on3 kit, yes the quallity is great, yes the turbo is from china, but you get what you pay for.

Mods to date are:

Engine:
Stock Short Block
MHS Stage 3 Heads (Installed)
Hi Tech Stage 2 Cams (Installed)
Accufab 70MM TB/Plenum (Installed)

Trans:
97 Cobra T45 rebuilt (Installed)
Pro 5.0 Shifter (Installed)
Stage 3 Spec 6 Puck Clutch (Installed)
Spec Aluminum Fly (Installed)
Steeda Adjustable Clutch Cable (Installed)
Steeda Double Hook Quadrant (Installed
Steeda Firewall Adjuster (Installed)
3.73 Rear Gears (Installed)

Suspension:
QA1 K Member (Installed)
QA1 Tubular A Arms (Installed)
UPR Coil Over Kit (Installed)
UPR Shark CC plates (Installed)
UPR Rear Tubular Control Arms (Installed)

Power Adders:
On3 Performance Turbo Setup (Installed)
150 Shot (Removed and for sale)

Fuel:
Walbro 255 LPH pump (Installed)
24# injectors (For Sale)
60# injectors (Installed)
Calibrated 60# Blow Thru MAF (Installed)

Misc:
Boost Guage (Installed)
Guage Pod (Need to buy)
Hallman Manual Boost Controller (Installed)


Currently the car has the engine and trans sitting next to it and the turbo kit is in my living room.

This is only a temp setup that I hope to get about 425/500 from on 6 PSI. My other engine is in the works as well but on the back burner until this is done since my crank was back ordered for 4 months.

That build will consist of:

Stock 99 Windsor Block (Owned)
MMR 5.0 1000 WHP Stroker kit
8.9 CR pistons
Piston Notches
Balanced 8 Bolt Forged Crank
MHS Stage 3 Turbo Cams
MHS Stage 3 Heads (Owned)

I'm open to suggestions and opinions as well as questions about my build. I'd like to hear your input, so please post away.

[Rich11]

Where are the pics!!!!

[RFM 40th V6]

Soon I gotta upload a bunch.

[RFM 40th V6]

Ok Here are the pictures of whats happened so far in order to the best of my knowledge.

Engine and trans still in the car before pulling them out.


Engine out of the car with new stage 3 clutch and alum fly wheel before removing the LT headers.


Used 97 Cobra Trans going in the car


Engine and Trans mounted together.


LT headers off the car and ready for sale.


Engine bay after removal.


10 LB bottle before removal


Sanded and primed QA1 K member ready for paint.


QA1 K member after high temp gas/oil resistant ceramic paint.


This


Will get you this.


50MM BOV


38MM Wastegate


60# Injectors


70MM Turbo



Big ass intercooler. Piping not shown as of yet.


Out with the old!


In with the new!


So much more room now!




Hood off and ready to drop in.


Engine on its way up.


And down


And finally I have to swap tail shafts with a 99-01 T45. I still need this then I can drive it again. Also Coil overs should be here monday so I can begin installing the turbo.

[WNTS 2RN]

Wow man, that some work. I like it.

[RFM 40th V6]

Thanks!

I'm working on it piece by piece.

[WhiteVenom]

lookin good! I love the epic fail sticker lol

[RFM 40th V6]

Thanks. Yeah that happened courtesy of MD winters.

This tail shaft housing is proving to be very hard to find. Kinda pissing me off.

[sharkbait]

arnt you glad i forced you to replace the oil pan gasket lol

[RFM 40th V6]

I would have done it myself by now. Since the plans have changed though, yeah I'm glad.

Although I could probably change in with it in the car now.

[BlueScreaM]

subscribed

[RFM 40th V6]

Thanks for stopping in and checking it out.

GOOD NEWS! I found the right tail shaft, speed sensor and tone ring needed to convert the trans from a manual speedo to an electric speedo.

I'll be doing a short step by step instructional on how to do it.

Although there is bad news too...

My CC plates and Coilovers arrived from UPR... but WITH NO FN SPRINGS!!!! WTF? Hopefully they will be nice enough to overnight them to me.

New parts pics.

[southfour!]

i hope they help you out (UPR that is) Ive been waiting for some items i ordered in november and everytime i call i get a different story.

[RFM 40th V6]

Since November? Jeeze. I think I'd just ask for my money back and go to another place.

[southfour!]

Originally Posted by RFM 40th V6 Since November? Jeeze. I think I'd just ask for my money back and go to another place.

Well the credit card i used has expired and no longer exists. When i called today they told me it would ship today but then again thats what they told me back in january so i dont have a lot of faith. I bought the stuff on the black friday sale.

Anyways, nice build I cant wait to see it when it done

[RFM 40th V6]

Thanks. Sorry about your luck.

I'll be sure to keep it updated as possible.

[RFM 40th V6]

OK. I got all the trans parts finally and here is the quick write up as promised, just incase anyone else ever decides to put an older style t45 from the 96-98 in a 99-01.

Items you'll need:

99-01 T45 Tailshaft housing
99-01 VSS trigger wheel
99-01 VSS
RTV Silicone
Small pry bar/large flateblade screwdriver
2 Small flat blade screwdrivers
Soft dead blow rubber hammer (not a mallet)
5 mm Punch
Magnetic parts tray or ziplock bags.
3/8 Ratchet
3/8 Drive 10 inch and 3 inch extensions
3/8 Drive 13MM socket
3/8 Drive T40 Torx bit

Time to complete: 1 hour if you already have the trans out of the car.

Ok so to start you need to remove your shifter by removing the 4 bolts that hold it in place on the tail shaft housing. If it doesn't come up easily use a flatbalde screwdriver and gently pry it up.

After the shifter is removed you should see something like this.

This is your shifter mechanism. It is attached to your shift rail which moves the shift forks and allows you to select a gear.

The first thing you want to do is make sure the transmission is laying flat as if it were in the car and put the trans mission into 4th gear. Then you want to take your 5MM punch and soft hammer and drive out the split pin in the center all the way through the bottom of the mechanism.


After the pin has been driven all the way through slide the mechanism back to the 3rd gear position and it should slide off the rail and lift out. Be careful not to lose the detent ball or detent spring as both are very important parts.


Place the shift mechanism, detent ball, detent spring and split pin in the magnetic tray or ziplock for safe keeping.


Next remove the VSS from the tailshaft of the trans. It should look like this when it is removed.

Then undo the bolts around the case of the tailshaft and place them in a bag or in the tray. After all the bolts are out take your small prybar and push it into one of the indicated slots around the tailshaft and pry gently up and down until the housing breaks free.

Now stand the transmission up on end like this.


Then pull straight up to remove the housing. After it is removed you should see this.


The next step is very easy. Remove the Full Fill seal from the output shaft of the transmission. Note it's position as the tapered end must face out.


Now you'll see the drive gear for the VSS. This is what you need to remove and replace with the tone ring for the electronic VSS.


Using the two small flatblade screwdrivers pry the snap ring away from the shaft gently and slide it up the output shaft and off. Not gonna lie, this is a pain in the ass.


Once the snap ring is off remove the VSS drive gear the same way you did the Full Fill Seal. Then slide the New VSS tone ring for the electronic speedo down to where the drive gear used to be. It may get stuck right above the snapring retainer grove on the shaft. It is ok to gently tap it with the soft hammer while alternating sides to slide it down into place. Then install the snap ring again.


Now install the Full Fill seal again and then set your 2 tailshaft housings side by side. In the original housing you should notice 3 things. Drain and fill plugs, a countershaft support bearing and the reverse ideler gear.


You can remove the drain and fill plugs with the 3/8 ratchet and short extension. Then you can pry out the countershaft support bearing gently with a small flateblade screwdriver. There is a slot provided to get under it.

Then you will want to remove the Reverse idler gear retainer plate. It's held down by 3 T40 torx bolts. Remove the bolts and lifte the plate out first.


Now remove the reverse idler gear and note it's position as it only works one way.

Then remove the needle bearing sleeves carefully as to not have them fall apart.


Then finally remove the revers idler gear retaining shaft from the case and install it in the new case in the same manner it came out.


Then reinstall the needle bearing sleeves.


Then the revers idler gear.


Then the retaining bracket and bolt it down.


Now run a bead 1/4 inch thick around the case of the transmission on the inside of the bolt holes.


Then slide the tailshaft cover down over the output shaft and be sure to align the shift rail through the hole in the tailshaft cover. It may be a little hard to get all the way down. Try gently wiggling it to align the dowl pins and seat the revers idler gear. Then bolt the case back together.


Next lay the trans flat again and install the detent ball in the 3rd gear position. then place the shift mechanism and spring ontop of the detent ball and slide it forward onto the shift rail. (NOTE: Make sure you have the shift mechanism facing the right way with the metal tab on the bottom inside the shift gate.)



Line the holes of the shift rail and shift mechanism up using the punch.


And then drive the split pin back in until it sits flush like before.


Install your new VSS and dont forget to reseal your shifter before installation or it may leak.

And thats all there is to it. You've now converted the 97 trans from a gear driven mechanical speedo to an electrionic speedo as well as moved the trans mounts to the correct spot for the 99-01 mustang.

[WhiteVenom]

Nice work man

[RFM 40th V6]

Thanks again.

Got the trans in and the car is running now. Still need to find a belt to fit since I deleted my a/c. Then I need to top off the coolant, refill the power steering, reassemble the shifter bezzle and break in the clutch. T

Then on friday I plan on installing my coil overs and doing the alignment.

[RFM 40th V6]

Finished up all the misc things that needed to be done and gave it a quick toe set so I could start driving it and breaking the clutch in.

Jeeze does that clutch grab hard though!

I am having an issue with 5th gear grinding... I'm hoping I miss aligned my shifter rather then have the sycnros go bad.

Coilovers are going on tomorrow and then on monday I start the turbo install.