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#1 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2004 Mustang GT
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: 717
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Souths NA 5.0 Stroker 2V
I've been going back and forth about what I want to do motor wise for my car the past few weeks. I've always toyed with the idea of doing a 5.0 NA stroker and I've decided that what I'm going to do.
I know people will tell me to just stay with a stock stroke crank to save money. Well here's the thing, you don't HAVE to dish out huge bucks for a stroker kit if you're not forging it, like me. I'm not doing a built bottom end b/c this motor will never see boost. I'm an all motor guy at heart so that's what I'm sticking with. Right now, I'm in the planning stages pretty much. I'm getting my block on sunday along with an engine stand for $100 bucks. I'm going to be having the block bored .020" over with a good deck and hone. I'll be stuffing an Eagle cast stroker crank in it with the matching rods for the crank. Minus the machining on the block, I'm in $996. Unless I can find the crank used on Corral or something, same with the rods, I'll be buying brand new. For heads, I'm going to use either MHS' stage 3s or TFS 44cc. I'll most likely end up going with the TFS heads bc of the sole fact that I won't have to get intake notches on my pistons, saving me some money. For cams, I'll be getting MHS' stage 3s. Thats where I'm at now. I'm trying to decide what CR I ultimately want to go with here. I was looking around at different pistons and while taking a shit, I was reading the article in a past issue of 5.0 Mustangs about the chick who did the 5.0 2v stroker with a D.S.S stroker shortblock, TFS 44 cc heads, TFS 2v intake and AFM N-22 cams and had a CR of 9.6:1 making close to 370rwhp NA! That seems crazy with that CR to me. I'm almost positive these are the pistons that came in her shortblock D.S.S. SX forged pistons I'm thinking about using the same ones but I still want some suggestions if I should go with a higher CR than that. I was thinking of going with 10.5:1-11:1 bc that seems a better fit for an NA build. Now the intake I'm thinking about going with. I know the Victor jr is a pretty crappy intake on a stock NA 2v but since I'll be spinning higher RPMs with the TFS heads, would it be worth it? I know a lot of people see great gains with it on boosted setups spinning more RPMs but how about an NA setup? I'll be updating this thread as I go. I'm in no rush really and will be buying parts as funds become available so it maybe awhile for some updates. My goals are to get atleast 330rhwp/330ftlbs when its all said and done but I'll be happy with a little more or a little less. I'll be assembling the motor next year in my second engines class at school so I'll be able to get a grade for it and be able to use all my resources at school. Needless to say, I'm excited to get this going and hope you guys enjoy following along, wish me luck.
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#2 |
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Enthusiast
2003 Mach 1
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before you start, GO 4V!!!!!!
For a N/A build, get some 4v heads and port the sh*t out of them. Grab yourself a nice cobra intake, have it ported, smooth the runners and space it. And it will be alot more capable than any 2v combo. A 5.0 or more N/A 4v combo would be awesome. Hogged-out heads, huge cams, and some high, high CR, like 11.5-12 to 1. Make sure whatever you get rotating assy wise is balanced really good so you can spin it all to 7k. Get some good springs as well for the valves to prevent float at that RPM. my $0.02
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2003 Azure Blue Mach 1 - KB, Suspension, Bolt-ons. 497hp, 460tq. |
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#3 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2004 Mustang GT
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Thanks for the input, but I'm staying 2v. My goals are more than attainable NA on the 2v.
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#4 |
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2003 Mach 1
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to each their own, but why stay 2v?
just wondering? what are the goals? And please tell me you at least have a aluminum block.
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2003 Azure Blue Mach 1 - KB, Suspension, Bolt-ons. 497hp, 460tq. |
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#5 |
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1 Wheel Peel
2000 Mustang 393w
2001 Mustang GT Vert
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wisconsin
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4v will make it much easier, but at the same time he would spend twice as much on cams. I am sure either setup will be badass.. Good luck
If you have e85 stations near, run that with a higher compression. Thing would be nasty
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#6 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2004 Mustang GT
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4V would be easier but it would probably cost more in the end. Plus I find mid 300 2vs more impressive than mid 300 4vs. Sticking with a regular cast iron windsor block. The weight savings really doesn't matter to me. I'm not building the motor/car to race it. It's gonna be a street car and just something to have fun with when I go cruising with my buddies.
Thanks. I would do E85 for sure but hardly any stations around here has it. The only station I've been to that has E85 is a BP down in Catonsville where I go to school and I'm only down there Fridays and Saturdays so it's gonna have to run on 93.
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#7 |
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2003 Mach 1
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well, sounds like its gonna be a monster either way. figured racing it would be the end goal, but w/e. For the e85 thing if you have a station that close i would consider it. I know some guys near me that use e-85, and the nearest station is an hour away. They got a 55 gal drum, pump it into there and store it at their house and pump it when they need it. Something to maybe consider. Inconvienient yes, but alot of power potential from it.
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2003 Azure Blue Mach 1 - KB, Suspension, Bolt-ons. 497hp, 460tq. |
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#8 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2004 Mustang GT
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It should be. Like I said, 330rwhp/330ftlbs is the goal but with my setup I have planned, I feel like ill make more.
Hmm that is an option. I didn't actually give that thought. I could fill it up when I'm down at school. I did decide Im going to use a saleen 3.800" crankshaft with the matching manley 5.850" rods instead of the eagle. It'll cost more but after doing some reading, I don't feel comfortable with an eagle crank bc I read A LOT of stories where people said they needed further machining. The only issue with the saleen crank n rods is id need custom pistons made I believe. I'm currently doing more research on this to see if I do for a fact need custom pistons.
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#9 |
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2003 Mach 1
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i wouldnt go eagle, chinese made parts and yea, usually need machining when you recieve them too. I would call a piston manufacturer or someone like MMR or whoever your going to get pistons from, they will probly be able to tell you what pistons you will need.
And if the e85 thing is feasable for you, i would consider a really high CR with it. Like as high as e-85 will let you go. Throw in some custom high CR forged pistons, and you could has a nice little N2O shot to go with it. Just in case......
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2003 Azure Blue Mach 1 - KB, Suspension, Bolt-ons. 497hp, 460tq. |
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#10 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2004 Mustang GT
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Well I just found out that if I stick with the saleen crank and rods, the wrist pins would intersect the oil rings, causing oil consumption. So I'm back to rethinking which crank to go with. I saw ModMax had a decently priced stroker kit at 1,895 but I'm not sure if their crank is chinese or not.
Edit: I haven't completely ruled out the saleen rods and crank now. I was talking with a guy who is selling the crank and rods and he said Excessive racing would have custom pistons made for me for $500-600. He has pistons that will work with the crank and rod but they're CR is lower than what I want. Pretty good price for forged, custom Diamond pistons that will work for my app. Slowly, but surely getting closer to figuring out exactly what I need for this kind of setup to work.
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![]() Last edited by 2VSouth; February 3rd, 2012 at 12:24 PM. |
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#11 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2004 Mustang GT
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Slight update. I'm still going with the saleen crank and rods. Got a sweet ass deal on both from a guy on the corral and I'm getting custom cp pistons made for a good price as well. So minus bearings, ill have a stroker kit for cheaper than any out there and it won't have Chinese parts
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#12 | |
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1 Wheel Peel
2000 Mustang 393w
2001 Mustang GT Vert
Join Date: Mar 2010
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#13 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2004 Mustang GT
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They are. That's a big reason i opted to pay a little extra for a known quality piece over getting a cheaper Chinese crank that may need further machining.
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#14 |
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1 Wheel Peel
2000 Mustang 393w
2001 Mustang GT Vert
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My chinese crank was dead on lol
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#15 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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Not saying all are like that, just don't want to take the chance because with my luck, it would need machined more.
I did get my block on sunday and bought my crank and rods today. That'll probably be the last of the parts bought for now, low on cash. Next thing on the list is to start saving for the block machining and custom Diamond pistons.
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#17 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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No, they will be now. Although unnecessary for my plans, the price i got the crank and rods for was way to good to pass up for a stroker crank and rods.
When its all said and done, ill have a stroker kit for much much cheaper than usual. My entire shortblock (windsor block .020" over, decked n honed, saleen/kellogg crank, saleen/manley rods, custom Diamond pistons with matching Diamond plasma moly rings and clevite main n rod bearings) with all the machining and balancing comes out cheaper than any 5.0 stroker shortblock you can buy but with the same quality internals. I'll be assembling it myself at school next year for my final grade to graduate so its really gonna pay off in the end.
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#18 |
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Wyatt's #1 Slut
2004 Mustang GT
N/A
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Can wait to see this project underway
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#19 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2004 Mustang GT
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Kind of is, but not really lol. More so just parts gathering and saving money now. Its definitely gonna be a slow build for sure.
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#20 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Mustang GT
13.7@103
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Sounds awesome man, good luck. i'm doing a N/a build too but 4v. and its a big bore stroker.
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