1994 Mustang Budget 302 Build - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 196 Old April 12th, 2015, 02:32 AM Thread Starter
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Hey everybody, my name is Brett Norton, new to the site. I am posting a build thread / progression of my 1994 Mustang. It is originally an abandoned V6 auto car, but I am embarking on the task of converting it to a somewhat reliable V8 5-speed car... with a carburetor. I am calling this project Budget 302 Build since I am going through with this project while attending college, and I will be attempting to do as much of the work myself as possible.

For the first 16 years of its life, this 1994 Mustang was used as a basic commuter car. Getting people from point A to point B. All of the previous owners were women. The original owner was a woman, and the second owner (previous to me) was a woman who had daughters of driving age that also drove the car. The car performed its commuting job well, driving all the way until 230,000 miles when a catastrophic failure occurred which changed the car's life forever.

One day in 2010, one of the daughters was driving the car on the highway and the engine started overheating. It was later discovered that the engine had blown a head gasket, which I am sure many of you know is a common failure with early Ford 3.8L V6 engines and not cheap to fix. Because of the high expense of a head gasket repair, the previous owner abandoned the car in a bush in her back yard and just let it sit there.

Fast-forward to 2014.

My parents knew about my joy of working on cars and a desire to have a Mustang. One day, my good mother went to her friend's house to get together and hang out. When she came home, she told me about a Mustang that had been sitting in her friend's back yard for a few years. I went up to the friend's / previous owner's house shortly after that to see what my mother was talking about. A few months later, I paid $400 to tow that Mustang off the previous owner's property.

The car sat here in Holton, Ks. for 4 years.


Now, on to the details about my 1994 Mustang and its overall condition. Things I knew, and things I later found out...


Pros:
•Car is originally black (of any color, I think black cars look the best)
•Body is pretty straight (with the exception of the driver's side fender which is easily replaced)
•Body is rust free
•Torque boxes are in good shape
•All body openings (hood, doors, trunk) open and close perfectly
•All body gaps are just right (except for driver's side fender)
•No evidence of animal / rodent infestation
•Cloth seats are not completely trashed (only a small rip in the fabric of the driver's side seat bolster)
•Dry rotted tires still hold air
•Mach 460 sound system (not excellent, but still nice)
•Only paid $400 for it

Cons:
•Original V6 engine has a blown a head gasket and was overheated long ago
•AODE trans supposedly has issues
•Electrical short drawing battery power even with the key off
•230,000 miles on body and drivetrain
•Car was abandoned and sat in a bush for 4 years
•Wasps love making nests out of the car wherever they can
•Because of a collision with a deer, the driver's side fender has a noticeable dent in it, the fiberglass hood has cracks along the front, and the headlight panel is broken
•Noticeable chip in the windshield
•Crappy tint bubbling up
•Slight rustiness underneath the trunk floor
•At some point in time, the tail pipe was caught on a curb and kinked
•When the tail pipe was bent, it hit the driver's side shock and slightly crushed it
•On hot summer days, the interior smells like ass
•On rainy days, water leaks into the trunk through the holes for the wing
•Rear bumper cover is the only body panel without clear coat peeling off of it
•Multiple dings, scuffs, and scratches all over the body





The plan for Budget 302 Build is to rebuild the drivetrain of this Mustang on a budget but with quality parts. I want it to make a decent amount of power and make that power reliably without breaking down or falling apart. It will be a car that I can drive on the street and possibly attend car shows, cruises, etc.


The build:

•Mild 302 motor with stock bottom end, Trick Flow stage 1 cam, GT40 / GT40P heads, HEI distributor, and Holley 4V carburetor (yes, I am putting a carb on an SN95 Mustang)
•Built T5 trans with new flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate
•Rebuilt 8.8" rear end with 3.73 gears, new traction-lok clutches, bearings, and seals
•Suspension overhaul with subframe connectors, urethane bushings, lowering springs, rear control arms, struts, shocks, steering, etc. DONE
•Complete brake job from master cylinder to brake rotors
•Cleanup and painting of the engine bay along with cleanup and undercoating of the undercarriage DONE
•Minimal body and interior work (body and interior will likely look very similar to how they are now)
•Any other miscellaneous crap that comes up


This will be a very long project, but I will do my best to push through it while attending college.

Let me get everybody up to speed on what has happened already. I have much more detailed thread about my progression on sn95source.com but I will just let the pics speak for now.


The car at its new home. Sadly, I could not get any pics of the car being trailered home since my phone died on me and I did not have a charger with me at the time.


Gray cloth interior with Mach 460 sound system.


230,000 miles on body and drivetrain.


Original 3.8L V6 engine.


Damaged driver's side fender


Cleanup time.


Pulled out the front seats to vacuum up the interior.


The car up on jack stands ready for teardown.


Damaged driver's side fender and inner fender coming off.


Damaged front bumper cover and header panel coming off.


Fuel tank dropped. Fuel lines were a bitch to pull off.


PCM pulled out.


Jensen radio was shorting out the battery. Drawing 4 amps with the key off.


Engine and trans pulled out.


Engine bay without engine


7.5" rear end pulled out.


Steering rack (along with the rest of the front suspension) removed.


Rear seat pulled out.


Engine bay stripped down.


Used dent-free driver's side fender installed.


What the car looks like as of May 2015.



Last edited by BrettNorton; October 19th, 2015 at 11:19 PM.
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post #2 of 196 Old April 12th, 2015, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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I installed a few parts and did some painting over spring break:

SVE Subframe connectors


Battle boxes (torque boxes were also welded up)


Rust hole discovered. It is behind the driver's side wheel well and goes through the trunk floor.


Underside cleaned up and painted.

Before




After




My face after cleaning up the underside of the car. If you look closely, you can see where I was wearing my safety goggles and dust mask.


Engine bay cleaned and painted.

Before


After


Inner fenders cleaned and painted.

Before


After


Small parts cleanup is next...
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post #3 of 196 Old April 13th, 2015, 10:26 PM
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Nice! It's always nice to see a car saved. I'll definitely be following you're build.

If I may, I'd recommend a trickflow stage 1 cam over the E303. It's just better. Also, if you don't plan on driving it much on the highway and want to run it down the strip, 4.10's are better than 3.73's. As many have said before, don't fear the gear!

I have 3.73 and I plan on going with 4.10's this summer because I have a ballpark 1/4 mile goal I'd like to achieve.

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Dont even know what you're talking about. But Aladdin was always the Disney character I trusted the most, so go for it.
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post #4 of 196 Old April 13th, 2015, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 93Bandit View Post
If I may, I'd recommend a trickflow stage 1 cam over the E303. It's just better. Also, if you don't plan on driving it much on the highway and want to run it down the strip, 4.10's are better than 3.73's. As many have said before, don't fear the gear!
Eh, i'm pretty dead set on the 3.73 gears. I don't really plan on any drag racing, but I do plan on driving the car on the highway a decent amount. I will however, look into that Trick Flow cam some more.
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post #5 of 196 Old April 13th, 2015, 11:43 PM
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That's understandable. 4.10's with a T5 aren't very highway friendly.

When I bought my car I said I didn't ever plan on taking it to the strip. I was wrong, and now that's pretty much my goal with the car lol Course at the time when I bought it, it was my DD. It isn't anymore

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Dont even know what you're talking about. But Aladdin was always the Disney character I trusted the most, so go for it.
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post #6 of 196 Old April 14th, 2015, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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I got my hands on a good sandblasting setup and went to town on cleaning and painting all of the small parts that I will be reusing.

Fuel filler neck and pinion snubber bracket


Fuel filter bracket


Transmission cross member and both sway bars


Front sway bar brackets


Front brake hose brackets


Fuel tank straps


Steering shaft


Power brake booster (yes, I notice runny paint)


Spindles / Wheel hubs


I will also need to get new springs because I found out that the last coil of the original front spring actually broke off inside the control arm some time in the car's life. It happened on both the driver's and passenger's side. I had to use a hammer and pry bar to pry what was left of the front springs out of the control arms.

I did sandblast the control arms, but I have to press the bushings out and clean them up some more before I paint them.

Last edited by BrettNorton; May 1st, 2015 at 03:01 AM.
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post #7 of 196 Old April 14th, 2015, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to 93Bandit's suggestion, I will be using a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam instead of an E303 cam. I read up on other forums about the Trick Flow vs. E303 cams, and heard better things about the Trick Flow cam. The kicker for me though, was learning that many of the Ford Racing letter cams were designed over 20 years ago. Trick Flow cam for me it is.

---------- Post added at 08:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 PM ----------

I spent today cleaning up the fuel tank. I did not use the sandblaster for it since I did not want to get a bunch of sand inside of it. I decided to just wire wheel the tank and paint it with primer.

Before




After




Something funny about the fuel tank here is that I found another vapor valve seal inside of it. The seal still looks and feels like it is brand new since it has never seen any bad weather. A good $10 saved right there. Here is a pic of the old seal next to the one I found inside of the tank.


I need to ask you guys about how I should go about cleaning out the inside of the fuel tank. I wire wheeled some rust, foam, and tar off of the tank with the various holes exposed, and I am pretty sure that I got some crap inside there. How should I clean it out?

Last edited by BrettNorton; May 1st, 2015 at 03:02 AM.
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post #8 of 196 Old April 16th, 2015, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Cleaned up and painted under the hood today... Literally. I had to get rid of the old hood pad since it was covered in grease and other crap that is impossible to get out. There should be a before pic in one of my previous posts.

Underside of the hood all painted up (Yes, I notice the crack up there).


Also cleaned up the fuel tank cover. It is still a bit rough, but looks better than it did before.

Last edited by BrettNorton; April 24th, 2015 at 07:51 PM.
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post #9 of 196 Old April 16th, 2015, 11:21 PM
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I think just rinsing out the tank with water really well would be sufficient. Then make sure it air dries out in a timely matter.

---------- Post added at 10:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:19 PM ----------

All those freshly painted parts look great! I wish I had time to do all that to my car! Unfotunately cosmetics are way on the bottom of my to do list.

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Dont even know what you're talking about. But Aladdin was always the Disney character I trusted the most, so go for it.
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post #10 of 196 Old April 16th, 2015, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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I think I'll flush the gas tank out with water, then hang it upside down somehow to let the water drain out. Should probably do multiple cycles.

Cosmetics are also a pretty low priority of my project as well. I'm just cleaning everything up underneath the car while I have good access to it. The body will still look exactly like how I found it, minus the dented fender. Kinda like a rat rod I guess.
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post #11 of 196 Old April 18th, 2015, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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Today was a sad day my fellow Mustangers. I must bid farewell to something that is a very important part of my project here.

I have a pair of Lee carpenter jeans that I bought 2 years ago. I always wear them while working on the car. They have worn out a fair bit and have big holes in both the knees. They also had a little ass hole (do not know of a simpler or more G-rated way to put it). They have been through every good and bad stage of my project. Pulling the motor / trans, dropping the axle, installing the fender, welding the subframe connectors, welding the battle / torque boxes, painting, everything.

Knee holes


Well, my working-on-Mustang pants died today. I squatted down, and the little ass hole became a big ass hole. The jeans have to be thrown in the trash now.

Giant ass hole
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post #12 of 196 Old April 21st, 2015, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Update on the progress of the Mustang today... or, lack of progress I should say.

The reason I say lack of progress is because of these damn front control arms. My issue is that I need to get the bushings pressed out of the arms in order to clean them up, paint them, and press in new bushings.

I got access to a 20 ton hydraulic press from my uncle Ed today, and attempted to press said bushings out. Welllllllll, the process did not go over as nicely as I thought it would have.

A stock control arm on a 1994 Mustang is made of stamped steel, so it can get crushed with a decent amount of force. The stock arm also has 2 different sized bushings in it. The bushing towards the rear of the car (right bushing in the pic) is larger than the bushing towards the front of the car (left bushing in the pic).


I only got to work with the driver's side control arm today, and it is how I found out that there are issues with pressing the bushings out of these control arms.

On the larger bushing, I only got most of the rubber pressed out, and it came out in pieces.


I could not get the shell out of the large bushing since it seems to be flared out on both ends, making the idea of pressing them out impossible (I could be wrong on that).


For the smaller bushing that is only flared on one end, I could not get it pressed out at all. I probably had about 10 tons of force on it, and the shell did not move one bit. All that I managed to press out was the little sleeve inside of the rubber.


These old bushings have 230,000 miles on them and are stuck like a mo-fo. MUSTANG PROJECT ALERT!!! MUSTANG PROJECT ALERT!!! HOW SHOULD I GO ABOUT GETTING THESE OLD FRONT CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS OUT!?!?!? SHOULD I SCRAP THE IDEA OF PRESSING OUT THESE BUSHINGS AND JUST BUY NEW CONTROL ARMS???? OR IS THERE SOME WAY OF GETTING THESE BUSHINGS OUT THAT I DO NOT KNOW OF?????

Last edited by BrettNorton; May 1st, 2015 at 03:06 AM.
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post #13 of 196 Old April 22nd, 2015, 02:46 PM
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nice...great save..sure didint wast time going to work on it! sub'd for this build.


93 coupe/bogarts/306/nitrous/5speed
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post #14 of 196 Old April 22nd, 2015, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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Right! Following advice from a member at sn95source.com I got my old front control arm bushings out.

First, I drilled the rubber out that held the little sleeve inside the bushing.


Second, I took a propane torch to the rubber in order to dig it out with a punch. The burning rubber smelled horrible and made a mess everywhere.


Lastly, I used a small wire brush to clean the remains out of the bushing shell.

These arms are going to need a bit more work before they are ready for painting and reinstallation. This whole ordeal with burning out the bushings has made the arms pretty dirty again, so they will likely need another round of sandblasting before paint.


An issue with the passenger's side control arm is that a few months ago, I attempted to press out the smaller bushing with a ball joint press (like what gets rented at the auto parts store). The bushing looks like it came out a bit. Instead of pressing out the bushing though, the tool crushed the part of the control arm around the shell that was supposed to be pressed out. I believe my uncle Ed has an attachment with his press that can spread metal out, which should work perfectly to fix this.
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post #15 of 196 Old April 23rd, 2015, 05:30 PM
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Brett Norton, you're the man. Talk about someone with determination.
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post #16 of 196 Old April 28th, 2015, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Dahhhhhhh!!!!!! Finally! Between a bunch of planning for work this summer and school next semester, I finally got to work on the Mustang today. I accomplished a few things.

First thing I worked on was the front control arms. I used a little hydraulic tool in order to spread out the crushed part of the passenger's side front control arm.


Then, I cleaned up the arms with a wire brush, and painted them.


I then cleaned the inside of the gas tank with a hose to get crap out of it from wire wheeling. I filled the tank with water, drained it out, and repeated multiple times.


Last thing I did was disassemble the steering rack (sorry about all the leaves in the pic). No, I did not pull the insides out of it. I just loosened up the hoses, along with removing the outer tie rods and inner tie rod boots. I left the boots on in order to protect the inner tie rods, even though they will be getting replaced.
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post #17 of 196 Old May 1st, 2015, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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Well my friends, I have to put the Budget 302 Build project aside for a few months. A few reasons:


1. Finals at school are approaching. Have to focus on studying for them rather than working on the car.

2. I have nothing left to do with the car right now. Everything that I wanted to accomplish by stripping it to the body shell is done. The underside, engine bay, and small parts that I kept are all cleaned and painted up. Subframe connectors and battle boxes are installed.

3. I will be working my ass off this summer. 2 jobs, 7 days a week, and no time for Mustang.


In my absence, I will be collecting all necessary suspension parts in order to put the Mustang back on its wheels again.




When everything is said and done, I will roll it into my grandpa's shop. That way, the car will be in a completely enclosed structure, where I will be able to work on it without having to worry about rain or other forms of bad weather slowing me down.




Shop needs cleaned out pretty badly


Over summer break, I will post updates on the parts I buy.

About early August, my jobs will finish up and I will have a good break in between school and work. Do not expect any progress until then...
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post #18 of 196 Old May 1st, 2015, 06:37 PM
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Great build! im looking to do something very similar as I wrecked the rear end of my car, and im going to be putting everything from mine into a fox body coupe.

Only thing I noticed is that you welded the subframe and torque boxes with the suspension decompressed. You are supposed to have the suspension compressed when installing these.


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2000 Mustang GT vert - Gone but not forgotten
2002 Mustang GT coupe
2007 BMW 335i
1994 BMW 328i - 5.0 swap in the works
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post #19 of 196 Old May 1st, 2015, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Brett Norton, you're the man. Talk about someone with determination.
Ehhhhh..... I wouldn't say I have all that much determination. Don't worry, I have enough determination to see this project through to the end. What kinda lowers the "cool factor" of this project though, is that while attending college and working on the car, I'm living with my grandparents (long story behind that). But then again, they're retired and I work on weekends, so I get to say "I am the only person who has a job in this house!!!"

Only reason I have been able to progress so quickly here is because of the tools factor. In high school, I was awarded a Snap-On tool box that I filled up with just basic hand tools last summer. In addition, my grandpa has a CRAP TON of specialty tools that I can use. I should probably get pics of everything I have gotten access to through him.
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post #20 of 196 Old May 5th, 2015, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Great build! im looking to do something very similar as I wrecked the rear end of my car, and im going to be putting everything from mine into a fox body coupe.

Only thing I noticed is that you welded the subframe and torque boxes with the suspension decompressed. You are supposed to have the suspension compressed when installing these.
Alright dude! Good luck on that huge swap project you got there!

I am aware of the issue that you stated about the subframe connectors. In fact, I actually inquired about it on Corral right before I installed them. In case you don't know why, I will explain why subframe connectors should not be installed while a car is on jack stands, and then why I am exempt from that case. I hope this long explanation isn't too confusing.

When a car is put on jack stands, you immediately notice that it is difficult to open and close the doors. This is because the body of the car is flexing. The body flex is due to the weight of the heavy engine on the front end and the heavy axle on the rear end. If somebody installs subframe connectors while the body is flexed like this, and the car is put back on the ground, the body will remain flexed due to the stiffness of the subframe connectors. Body gaps are off, doors won't open or close, and the car handles even worse than it did before. A drive-on four-post lift is recommended for subframe connector installation, since the car is sitting on all 4 wheels, the suspension is compressed, and the body is not flexed.

Now, if you have followed along with my build (thank you for doing so my good man), you probably know that my Mustang has been on jack stands since I bought it. During the whole teardown process, I always noticed that I never had any trouble opening or closing the doors. I'm sure that it can be attributed to the redesigned SN95 Mustang of 1994 having a stiffer chassis than the Fox Body Mustang it replaced. I'm sure you also know that I stripped my Mustang down to a bare body shell. The suspension, heavy engine, heavy transmission, and heavy rear axle were all gone. The car was just a body shell on jack stands. I couldn't exactly drive or tow it to a shop to have the subframe connectors installed lol.

With my 1994 Mustang having a stiffer chassis than previous Mustangs along with being a body shell on jack stands with no engine, transmission, or rear axle to weigh it down, there should be negligible flex in the body. The method with which I went about installing my subframe connectors should not create any issues.

I very much appreciate the question you asked me about this issue. I can certainly understand the skepticism especially considering that you have a convertible. I hope I wasn't sounding too confusing or like too much of a smart ass.
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