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Destination's 1970 Fastback project

14K views 161 replies 24 participants last post by  BWAL 
#1 · (Edited)
So about 3 weeks ago I sold my 2007 GT and I was sad to see it go but it was in order to move onto a project, something me and my dad could handle and something that wasn't a complete pile. The body is rust free and the paint looks newish but it has some imperfections and chips. The spot around the top of the side windows is good except on the passenger side, it looks like they damaged it a little while removing the original trim.

The car was originally a 302 car with a 3spd manual and factory air conditioning.

Now it's got a 351W with an edelbrock performer rpm top end kit with a cam, longtubes and a holley carb (unknown cfm at the moment). The transmission is an FMX 3spd, the guy said it had a 3000 stall converter in it but when i drove it I couldn't tell too much. Manual drum brakes on all four corners with manual steering, I drove it home about 70 miles and it was an experience I'll tell you that.

The gas gauge and speedometer doesn't work or the dummy oil gauge, blinkers don't work, a/c was never put back in and the heater is gone, no radio but the factory radio was in the trunk laying around. The seat belts need to be put in and the wiring harness is a hack job. She's definitely a project. I'll grab more pictures.

Things to do:

Painless wiring harness to replace the hacked factory one
Convert drums to four wheel assisted disks
Convert auto back to manual with a TKO trans
Resolve gauge issues
Get turn signals working
Install factory type a/c replacement
Replace radiator and hoses
Convert to power steering

Items Completed:

AAW Update wiring harness
Recored the radiator and replaced hoses with concourse correct ones
Replaced damaged intake manifold
Replaced valve covers and air cleaner
Replaced entire gauge set
Replaced door lock rods, handle/tumbler/door strike plate/ door sill plates
Added 3 point seat belts to front buckets and rear bench seat
Replaced all lights on the car
Rebuilt the FMX transmission and put in a 2200 stall converter
Replaced shock tower tops and xport brace.
Installed kickdown rod setup
Replaced front bumper and support brackets.
























 
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#6 ·
Sounds like a sweet project. For some reason I cant see your original pic. I've been looking at this awesome clone for sale locally on craigslist for a while. Not sure if id be willing to sell my Mach 1 to fund it though. That took some massive balls on your part. Way to go get what you really want. Heres the car Im talking about. 1969 mustang
 
#10 ·
If things fall into place, I'd like to have the wiring harness in, the gauges working and the manual drums converted to assisted disks, at least in the front by end of February or sometime in March. At this point it's just a matter of money.

Might as well ask, anyone know of a good kit for at least a front brake conversion to disk? I've looked on CJP and Summit/Jegs and there's too much to choose from.

After running it last night, I know I need to change the oil, get a new air filter, it needs timed and the vacuum advance isn't setup on it, it's also idling way too high. I'll try to get those things resolved this weekend, probably change the plugs as well since it's been running way rich.

I know way more about the mod motors than these things but thats what this was for, a project for me and my dad to share and to learn this stuff.
 
#11 ·
I recommend one of these kits for your brakes. It uses all factory parts so you can get replacement parts from any local auto store down the road. I used this on my 68. Edge this also used this kit.


index.html


You may want to look at american autowire for a harness as well. I went with the scott drake factory harness which was 100% plug and play. I had the whole car wired in 3 hours. It is a bit costly though. It was around 1200.00

http://www.cjponyparts.com/american...ring-harness-classic-update-kit-1970/p/WHC70/
 
#13 ·
I recommend one of these kits for your brakes. It uses all factory parts so you can get replacement parts from any local auto store down the road. I used this on my 68. Edge this also used this kit.


index.html


You may want to look at american autowire for a harness as well. I went with the scott drake factory harness which was 100% plug and play. I had the whole car wired in 3 hours. It is a bit costly though. It was around 1200.00

510243 Mustang American Autowire Complete Wiring Harness Classic Update Kit 1970 | CJ Pony Parts

That is a sweet looking car. As TC mentioned, I did have the CSRP brakes on and they were great. I recently swapped them in favor of the 04 Cobra brakes on all four wheels. Did the swap mainly for looks and ease of replacement parts. Easier to get 2004 parts then 1967 parts. Completely bolt on.

20150912_120340 by Brett, on Flickr

i also converted the car from a c4 to a T5. I have looked at TKO, but I like the way the T5 shifts. Have you looked into the Astro or G-force T5s. Sean Hyland Motorsports is running one of those behind a Coyote in a foxbody.
Will any of those fit behind the 15x7s that are currently on the car?
 
#12 ·
That is a sweet looking car. As TC mentioned, I did have the CSRP brakes on and they were great. I recently swapped them in favor of the 04 Cobra brakes on all four wheels. Did the swap mainly for looks and ease of replacement parts. Easier to get 2004 parts then 1967 parts. Completely bolt on.

20150912_120340 by Brett, on Flickr

i also converted the car from a c4 to a T5. I have looked at TKO, but I like the way the T5 shifts. Have you looked into the Astro or G-force T5s. Sean Hyland Motorsports is running one of those behind a Coyote in a foxbody.
 
#26 ·
Also, listen to TC and do yourself a favor. Don't use Painless wiring, because it's everything but painless.
Cool build!

+1 on Painless being a pain in the ass. I'm good at wiring and it had me pissed off...
 
#27 ·
Did some work with the car today. Changed the plugs and got it running smooth. One of the plugs looked like it wasn't firing right. No leak on the carb, I believe that the tarnish on the manifold is from an older carb. Replaced the turn signal fuse so now the signals work properly, the original horns were included in a various parts box and tested them as good. Found that the speedometer cable isn't hooked up, replaced the battery tie downs and hooked up the vacuum advance on the car. The bumper looks wrong for the car as it doesn't fit well with the fascia and turn signals, got some stuff to figure out there.

Ordered:
Steering wheel
Turn signal switch
Door handle pair
Door lock pair
Door lock rod set
 
#30 ·
Well, we spent another day going over the car. The reverse lights do not work, the harness is missing and since it was converted to automatic from manual, there isn't anything in the shifter to get the reverse lights to come on. Also found out that the linkage between the shifter and the transmission is one thats made for a C4 trans and not an FMX so there is a lot of slack when moving the shifter from gear to gear. The detent doesn't hold it in gear because it seems like it was made for a different car. When putting it in D, it slips into 2 because there isn't anything in the detent to hold it in place. I'm thinking over what to do at this point because I've only found one place that carries the shifter linkage for a console **** FMX and they're all used parts plus having to deal with a detent that doesn't hold it in gear properly.

Any ideas welcomed.
 
#31 ·
I should have taken pics today but I'll get some up tomorrow, it's been a monsoon out today and everythings soaked.

Installed concourse correct washer fluid reservoir. Installed the door rods in the driver side, replaced the door handle and door lock but found an issue in the locking mechanism itself in the door so I'll need to order those for each side. When you lock the door and shut it, unlocking it doesn't allow it to open because the door mechanism is shot and doesn't operate properly, let me tell you how fun that was to get the door open layed across the seats pulling the door rods.

Removed the old tired vinyl steering wheel and replaced the factory turn signal cam but now I'm stuck since the aftermarket one requires drilling into a part of the column to mount it and the metal is too hard for the machine screws to self tap so I'm going to borrow a tap and tie set from my dad to get it done. After that the new wheel should go on.

I've decided on throwing the FMX in the garbage. The parts needed to get it operable in the car to pass any sort of inspection would cost more than I'd like to spend on something as difficult to source parts for as it is.

Not installed but I have:

New stainless fuel lines from tank to fuel pump.
Polished wiper arms and wipers.
Wiper motor and actuating arms.
Reverse lights and get them wired in.
Plate light/bracket.
Quarter window hardware so they stay shut.
 
#32 ·
Man getting those pins in the quarter window handles is a pain in the ass. I wanted to throw mine in the trash several times messing with it.


For the transmission I would decide what you want long term and go ahead and make the swap so you aren't doing it twice. A T5 should be an easy swap and not break the budget if you pick up a used one.

If you want to stay auto get a 4r70w and one of these BEC AODE & 4R70W Information. I did the AOD swap in mine and IT was a pain in the ass dealing with the TV cable and still never really shifted the way I wanted it to.
 
#33 ·
It seems like the car is fighting me on every front so far. I think for now I'm going to just go with a built C4 just to get it going and because of the ease of finding parts and installing it. The complete kit and everything is around 2k so it won't break the bank and it should hold up for a few years so I can at least enjoy the car until I upgrade to a TKO.
 
#34 ·
Yep projects you think you can get done quickly turn in to all day often on the classics. It's all the cleaning up after someone other genius's half ass work.

Yep a C4 is an easy fix. If you get a nice stall with it you can really enjoy the car and still have some pretty good launches.
 
#35 ·
I'm telling you and I know you understand, everytime I pull something apart, it's like, what the **** was this person doing. When I bought it I figured I'd be able to put around in it every now and then while working on it but now the steering wheel is off, electric choke disconnected, the door panels are off and I'm lucky that the door mechanism works enough to shut the doors. Some of the wires in the trunk are just bare where they connected them, I'm lucky nothing shorted this whole time. It's definitely a learning experience.
 
#36 · (Edited)
It's not the best weekend to be working on the car but I'me waiting for more of the door lock pieces to come in before I can finish the doors. Probably be something I do next weekend. The wiring harness for the steering column came in so that was replaced and while it was all apart, the new wheel went on.

Does anyone know where I can get a shifter linkage for a C4? The C4 I'm getting is for 70-82 I think and the linkage I have is for a 1969. I have the part and model numbers but I can't find one. The one marked yellow below is the one I have.

1969
w/FMX -- part number C9OZ-7326-A, marked C9OA-7340-A
w/C4 -- p/n C9ZZ-7326-C, marked C9ZA-7326-D
w/C6 -- p/n C7ZZ-7326-A, *unknown marking*

1970
w/FMX -- part number D0ZZ-7326-D, marked D0ZA-7340-A
w/C4 -- p/n D0ZZ-7326-B, marked D0ZA-7326-B or D0ZA-7340-C
w/C6 -- p/n D0ZZ-7326-C, marked D0ZA-7326-C or D0ZA-7340-B


 
#37 ·
You should be able to grab the shift linkage from Dallas mustang or CJ pony parts. To my knowledge your existing linkage should work the only differences are in a C4 transmission over the years was the tail housing length, size of the bell housing and the dip stick locations. The location of the shifting lever never changed.
 
#38 ·
I found out a shitload of information the last couple hours. In 1970 they switched from having the key on the dash to the column and when they did that, they changed the shift linkage to a lockout shift linkage. It prevented the key from coming out of the column unless the car was in park so it's a different rod than the 69 cars.

The part number research.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/7418...er+parts+catolog-+I+need+some+shifter+rods+ID

The C6OA rods are tough because the parts books do not identify shift rods for a stick (and not some automatics either) by engineering number, they just give the part number which is different than the engineering number on the rod. The C6OA-7B112-A is a reverse shift rod for a Fairlane or Falcon (Tiger and Cobra too I think) for 66-68 and is a C6OZ-7B112-A. The C6OA-7328-J is probably a C6AZ-7328-G 1st and 2nd rod (it is a 1st and 2nd rod, I am just not 100% positive that the engineering and part numbers translate) for 66-68 same as reverse rod. The D0ZA-7340-C is a floorshift rod for a 1970 Mustang with a 6 cylinder or 302 with a C4 part number D0ZZ-7326-B and the --D0ZA-7E330-M-- is actually not a shift rod, it is a steering column lock out rod for the same Mustang as the shift rod (in 70 they went to a key on the column and it will only come out if the trans in in park) and is part number D0ZZ-7E330-A. I am actually trying to verify if a D1ZA-7E330-AA is a lock out rod for a 71-73 Mustang with an FMX because they are not identified in the MPC either

Researching some of those part numbers leads here.

https://www.428cobrajet.org/id-reverse-lockout



The more I read about it the more confused I get with how it all works. KILLLLLLL MEEEEEE lol

Here is a linkage to a 1970 C4.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-1970-M...m235b1d0b53:m:muGYylXBNLb1PbzzadzV46A&vxp=mtr

Here is the one that I have for a 1969.

 
#39 ·
The one in my 68 looked like the one you have for the 69. If It was me i'd contact who you are getting the transmission from to confirm which one you need before spending a money on a new one. They should be able to tell you how it will be set up and if it has the lock out.



Theses cars get confusing quick trying to figure out what carries over and doesn't.
 
#40 ·
I tried contacting TCI but the guy I keep getting keeps trying to pass me onto 3rd party vendors for crap. He's not taking the time to even understand what I'm telling him. He linked me to a vendor that only does column shift cars after telling him it's a console shift. I'm not buying from people who don't even know what it takes to install a transmission. So I guess until I figure out something else I'm stuck. There is always the option to rebuild the FMX but I'd have to find someone who knows how to work on that and isn't ****tarded.
 
#41 ·
Dang at this rate you may be better off get the transmission in and trying the linkage you have. if that doesn't work then you can order the other one or fab up a custom linkage. Shouldn't be to hard if you get a piece of all thread cut to length and add some heim joints to the end with jam nuts.
 
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