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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 44
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2005+ Mustang
I herd that the stock pistons in the GT were no good since the rings are at the top of the piston making it very vulnerable to detonation with any power adders. Also if true, I would want to replace the pistons and rods, how ever does any one know how much you can safely over bore the 2005+ GT Mustang?
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#2 |
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Moderator
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I have not herd that one. I have a CAI, and a Predator tuner with a 93 octane race tune I'm running, and I have even bumped the timing up 4 degrees, and I've had no problem with detonation.
And welcome to the forums.
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#3 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 44
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Well I was told by the dealer that even a 25 shot of nitrous would kill the car.
What can one do to a 2005+ GT to get more power, main power adders while staying N/A. I herd once that adding a mild cam would not do much for the GT, is there any truth to this?
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Though I walk through the valley of rice I shall fear no turbo, for Torque art with me. I may drive civil for a day, but no longer than that...
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#4 |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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I know headers and cold air, but does any one know which intake to get for the best gains.
The shaker hood intake system, of course K&N, any of the others... or the shaker with reworked piping? I took a look at an online article that stated the Shaker hood used the stock air intake system, any one know if it is possible to rip the old tubing out all the way to the shaker hood and replace it with custom mandrel bent tubing for better air flow, or am I just dreaming and it be to expensive..?
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Though I walk through the valley of rice I shall fear no turbo, for Torque art with me. I may drive civil for a day, but no longer than that...
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#5 | |
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Moderator
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The typical bolt-on modifications you can make are: Cold Air intake, good for 10 - 15 horse. After market tuner W/custom tunes, another 10 - 15 horse depending on tune. Long tube headers and full custom exhaust, including x-pipe or h-pipe, 15 - 20 horse. Charge motion delete plates, about 5- 10 horse. Underdrive Pulleys, about 5 - 10 horse. Coil Pack set, about 10 horse. You can also add things like 4:10 gears which don't add horse, but multiply torque to make it easier to get the car rolling. Just changing these is a difference you can instantly feel. An aluminum driveshaft. The factory unit weighs 42 lbs. A good after market unit weighs 20 lbs. Saving 22 lbs. of rotational mass is the equivalent of adding about 10 horse at the wheels. As to your cam question, that too is not true. I have researched this as I'm interested in doing it myself. www.brenspeed.com has an article on this, and I believe gained 40 horse with a Stage II cam. Most of the information on all of the above is floating around on the forum, and can be found by doing a search. Also come check out the 05+ section here for more information.
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#6 | |
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Moderator
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A shaker system with functional ram air adds minimal power, and that minimal gain can only be seen with the car moving at speed. Regarding headers, I would only consider long tube headers, as shorties don't add that much power. They add some torque down low, but for true hp gains you want the long tubes.
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#7 |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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Yeah I was thinking of the long tube headers, but what about cut outs at the end of the long tube headers. Mith or fact that cut outs in a good location to let out all the exhaust will boost performance?
I think the K&N would be the best for CAI, what is a good tuner computer? I have sean plenty and I dont know jack about tuners... The one I think looks the best is the BAM http://www.bamachips.com/store/index...afbac8d9a8794e what do you all think? O yeah 2005+ GT Vs 99 TA? TA putting 459Hp to the ground and that is with a 125 spray, and the GT only having pully, CAI, long tube headers, and Cam...
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Though I walk through the valley of rice I shall fear no turbo, for Torque art with me. I may drive civil for a day, but no longer than that...
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#8 |
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Moderator
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Fact that cut outs help performance, especially if you have added more breathing capability on the intake side of things, be it through the CAI & tune, or a camshaft upgrade.
As for a tuner, look for the SCT X-cal stuff. I actually bought my tuner & custom tunes from Doug at bamachips, and he knows his shit. That TA will destroy the GT. It's lighter, and obviously making way more power. 495 to the ground is roughly 600 at the flywheel. A GT with the mods you mentioned is making roughly 360 - 380 flywheel horse.
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#9 |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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No that’s my roommates TA; he has ram air, a mild cam, long tube headers, cutouts on the stock exhaust
![]() He also has sub frame connectors, torque arm, adjustable rear shocks, and a 125 on the bottle and a Drag racing clutch rebuilt tranie. He is putting 500 to the motor and around 459 to the ground with the bottle. So can a N/A GT win with enough mods?
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Though I walk through the valley of rice I shall fear no turbo, for Torque art with me. I may drive civil for a day, but no longer than that...
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#10 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
11.21@123 -150 shot
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Mustang/Yukon, OK
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You are going to need a power adder just to keep up with that TA.
The pistons/rods suck because they are the powder metal known as hypereutic (hyperpathetic). They are light weight and fairly strong and will live long lives in the stock form. When you put too much boost or juice to them bad things happen.
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#11 |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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((You are going to need a power adder just to keep up with that TA.
The pistons/rods suck because they are the powder metal known as hypereutic (hyperpathetic). They are light weight and fairly strong and will live long lives in the stock form. When you put too much boost or juice to them bad things happen.)) Yes I know a power adder is needed but what would you say is the right combo of power adders, I dislike F/I cars! Also I know how pistons and blocks are made, but I herd that the ring landings are way to close to the top of the piston, which can means the motor can be prone to detonation.
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