[demononwheels]

For those making 500hp + or not
First of all, I’ve already searched the forum.
Just put a new motor and Vortech s-trim
http://amarilloracers.vidiac.com/top...B226B8B0B8.htm
in my 1993 mustang Lx. I made 508 hp and 508 torque to the rear wheels.
Can’t get any traction. Duh. I’ve got some MT ET streets 28x10.50x15. And that’s pretty much it for traction.I'm doing a decent burn out. The reason I went with street slicks is because of the stock axles.
I tried a few ¼ mile runs today. Best top speed was 109 with a bunch of traction loss. If I leave off the line at low rpm, it laggs. To high, lose traction in first and second gear.. Running 16 psi in the tires. The guy I bought this car from told me that it has suspension springs out of an 1993 4 cylinder stang.
What suspension parts to I need to buy for the front and rear?
I just need to know where to start and want to buy. I dont want to go back and ugrade the suspension later.Any tips?What rpms to launch at?

[L33T]

BMR Fabrication makes some sweet suspension upgrades that will help plant you.
I'll be pulling the trigger on some of this stuff soon.

[mdvaldosta]

It takes more than just slicks (as you're experiencing) at that power level. I'd be looking into lower control arms and drag oriented shocks / struts. Your 4cyl springs aren't the greatest but they'll due (I run them).

They're some pretty sick fox bodies here, I'm sure they'll tell you what they run. All I run is 4 banger front springs, Strange adjustable front struts, no front swaybar, and boxed upper / lower control arms along with some MT ET Drags and I launch at 6k rpm and cut a 1.56 60' with (practically) no wheel spin. I run 12-16# of air in the tires depending on track conditions.

[demononwheels]

Originally Posted by mdvaldosta They're some pretty sick fox bodies here, I'm sure they'll tell you what they run.

Yea, that’s what I hope.To get some feedback from all the badass stangs in this community or any one with the know-how. I have no idea where to start.
The 60ft time you listed could be a good target for me when I get my SS G-Tech. Our local track closed down. I know my 60ft time sucks.
6000 rpm and no wheel spin? Holy Molly! Do your front wheels come off the ground.
I better get some good 31 spine axles before I attempt something like that.
Any suggestions anyone. I guess my rear differential will have to be a different one too?

I REALLY APPERICATE ALLL THE HELP. PRICELESS!

[Twist 2 Go]

I'm using a set of upper and lower arms from X2C Motorsports, 50/50 lakewoods rear, 90/10 frt. 175lb coilovers in the frt and a UPR rear sway bar. My best 60 ft has been a 1.52. My BBF put out right at 600 on the motor and a 200 shot so traction is an issue. I'm running 275/60-15 MT drag radials. Darrell (another mod here) has a coupe running low nines and he's using Team Z suspension. Maybe he'll chime in and give ya some more details

[demononwheels]

Originally Posted by Twist 2 Go I'm using a set of upper and lower arms from X2C Motorsports, 50/50 lakewoods rear, 90/10 frt. 175lb coilovers in the frt and a UPR rear sway bar. My best 60 ft has been a 1.52. My BBF put out right at 600 on the motor and a 200 shot so traction is an issue. I'm running 275/60-15 MT drag radials. Darrell (another mod here) has a coupe running low nines and he's using Team Z suspension. Maybe he'll chime in and give ya some more details

Yea,
More help please. I'd like to know what Darrell has to say bout his set-up.
I'm writing all your suggestions down.

Thanks

[Darrell]

Your tire pressure is way to high for starters. You should be around 10-12 psi. I'd start at 12 and work down 1/2 psi at a time. Use a good gauge with a dial that reads 0-15 psi for accurate results. What do you have for suspension components (upper and lower control arms, shocks, struts, front and rear springs, etc)? If you have 4 cylinder springs in the rear I'd throw them in the garbage. By nature of design a stock Mustang rear suspension will squat. A light spring in a stock type Mustang rear suspension with stock control arm mounting points will only hurt you because it will allow the rear end to squat which unloads the tires. Think of it this way, if you put a light spring (like an accelerator pump spring for example) on a bathroom scale and push on it the scale will register how many pounds of pressure you have applied. Now put a stiffer spring on that scale and push on it. Notice how much more pounds of pressure you can apply before the spring compresses. The same thing happens with a car.

Before you try to get traction you need to get rid of the stock axles and put a spool and some good 33 or 35 spline axles in. At that horsepower level you will break an axle and will either destroy a quarter panel from the tire and axle coming out or worse yet, hit the wall and completely destroy the car and possibly yourself. You have to take care of the rest of the car when you build horsepower. Its not worth the risk.

[demononwheels]

Axles and spool first.
Do you have web site or videos of your car on the 1/4 mile?
Thanks again

[Darrell]

Originally Posted by demononwheels Axles and spool first. Do you have web site or videos of your car on the 1/4 mile? Thanks again

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ck-vt2609.html
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ht-vt2957.html
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ng-vt3265.html

[demononwheels]

Darrell,

FBA

Thanks for the advice man!

[Darrell]

Originally Posted by demononwheels Darrell, FBA Thanks for the advice man!

No problem, I'm here to help.

[demononwheels]

I'll be talking to you again i'm sure

[Twist 2 Go]

Good advise Darrell! I actually learned something there as well.