[bzeboymenz]

My 2001 Mustang GT with auto trans currently has Eibach springs on it.

I am not sure if these Eibach springs are the stock springs (please advise) because I purchased the vehicle used.

Problem: I currently FIGHT with the steering wheel when the car drives over bumps in the road, especially while braking over these bumps. I also have to hold the steering wheel off centered to the left while driving on the freeway in the left lane. I had the alignment done at the local Ford dealer with new tires, but have this problem now.

Please help if anyone knows a definite concrete fix for this problem, it will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

[Zatrekaz]

I dont know what to tell you about your sterring probs. Im kinda having the same prob since I upgraded to 18" rims from stock. I got the Front end aligned but it still pulls a bit and the steering wheel shakes some.

However the springs you mentioned are not stock on the Mustangs. The pervious owner must have installed them.

[00vabchgt]

what you described is Bumpsteer. try adding a Steeda bumpsteer kit and X2 ball joints. that with an alignment should correct the problem.

[Zatrekaz]

Would thoese 2 products correct my problem also? Im just having some shaking on the steering wheel and when braking. Already got an alingment.

[Garhfer]

Originally Posted by Zatrekaz Would thoese 2 products correct my problem also? Im just having some shaking on the steering wheel and when braking. Already got an alingment.

You got an alignment because of it? If so did you check your tires for wear that happened before you got the alignment? And pulling while braking could either be something is loose in your suspension or one of your calipers are sticking...

[Zatrekaz]

I installed the rims and tires brand new, and had some pulling and shaking. I got it aligned, because I thought the increses in rim size might be causing it. it fixed a good but of it, but its still there.

[00vabchgt]

bumpsteer will also happen during braking as well as when you hit a bump in the road. if it is bumpsteer, yes, those 2 products will help it out. but it could also be caused by what Garfher mentioned...

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by Zatrekaz I installed the rims and tires brand new, and had some pulling and shaking. I got it aligned, because I thought the increses in rim size might be causing it. it fixed a good but of it, but its still there.

When you went bigger did you go wider as well? I notice one hell of a difference between driving pizza cutters and fat tires in terms of how much they'll follow every little groove in the road - I woulda figured the narrow tires would be worse, but it's much the opposite. With just the stock tires on the Cobra I have to stay on top of things, especially on the concrete sections of freeway.

Also, I'm assuming you went with lower profile tires when you went to the larger rims, those will transmit a lot more NVH into the steering.

[00vabchgt]

^ true. a wider tire up front will tend to wander a bit more...

[Zatrekaz]

Its 18x9/18x10 set... cant remember the tire size right off hand. I know the back is 365/35.... I could be wrong.

If this is the case, what could I do to correct it? I am lowering it soon and im thinking the new springs are just gonna make it worse. Im not getting CC plates or shocks yet... so I worry about how worse it will get.

[97Cobra]

when you get the springs grab the bumpsteer kit.

[tjames]

also a set of caster&camber plates so it can be alligned correctly, i doubt it was alligned perfect without them

[04Pony]

It is most likely due to the wide tires up front, wider tires have a larger footprint that comes in contact with the ground and rough, grooved and uneven pavement will definitely cause the wheels to wander. Don't worry, it's normal, just be aware of it when you are driving, you'll get used to it quickly. A bumpsteer kit will definitely help out though, it's a great investment. And caster camber plates are recommended if you have lowering springs, which it sounds like you may have.

[boney1]

put a bumpsteer kit on the rids the car of it...they work..try it@!!!

[tg540edge]

The technical explanation is a change in toe caused by suspension travel or an unwanted steering input caused by such a toe change. If you already understand that explanation you probably have fixed any bumpsteer you may have had. If not, imagine driving through a parking lot. The right side of the axle has a speed bump and you try to go around. You miss, the right front tire hits the speed bump and your car steers itself to the right even though the steering wheel did not move. Now imagine you are going to turn a corner and you choose to go through the corner at a very high speed. As you approach the corner you turn the steering wheel in and the car begins to roll. As you have the steering wheel set in position to carry you through the turn, the car continues as the suspension compresses on the loaded side of the car. The front wheel turns in more than you had originally intended, causing the car to turn more sharply. You correct the steering wheel in the opposite direction pulling the car out of its roll and you miss your intended path through the turn. Both of these examples illustrate bumpsteer and are undesirable when maximizing the handling performance of your Mustang. Two things happened when the vehicle crossed the speed bump or when the vehicle entered the turn. First, there was suspension travel, the wheel, spindle, a-arm and other components moved upward as it crossed over the speed bump or when the vehicle began to roll into the turn. Second, this suspension travel caused the wheel to change direction even though the driver did not turn the steering wheel. This change in wheel direction made the vehicle turn in a direction not intended by the driver.

When the suspension travels up and down, the wheel moves up and down in an arc or half circle around a pivot point. This pivot point is not a physical location or suspension part but is an imaginary point on the chassis, similar to a vehicle's center of gravity. The distance from the pivot point to the wheel and spindle is equal at all points in the wheel's range of vertical movement. The tie rod and steering rack must be positioned so that as the wheel moves up and down, the tie rod follows an arc which is parallel to the arc followed by the spindle. If the steering rack or tie rod is not positioned correctly, the distance between the steering rack and wheel may differ from the distance between the pivot point to the wheel at different suspension heights. When this occurs the steering rack will push or pull the spindle as the suspension moves up or down thereby turning the wheel and causing a change in toe angle.

The direction the front wheels are pointed is called toe angle. When both wheels are pointed parallel there is 0 degrees toe. When the front of the wheels are pointed inward, there would be positive degree toe or what is called toe in. When the front of the wheels are pointed outward there is negative degree toe or what is called toe out.

[TheBusher]

Originally Posted by Zatrekaz Its 18x9/18x10 set... cant remember the tire size right off hand. I know the back is 365/35.... I could be wrong. If this is the case, what could I do to correct it? I am lowering it soon and im thinking the new springs are just gonna make it worse. Im not getting CC plates or shocks yet... so I worry about how worse it will get.

I think your wrong. The only car that currently wears a 365 is the Buggati Veyron. And it is on something like a 13 or 14 inch wide rim. Even the mighty Viper only wears a 345. The widest you can fit on a 10 inch rim (according to manufacturer specs) is a 305.