Testing the MAF

Dragonhunt · December 8th, 2008, 05:26 PM

I have a 2000 Mustang 3.8 V6 Automatic.

Is there a to Test the Mass Airflow Sensor?

If so, please explain or give me a link to a How to.

Thanks

WLJohnson05 · December 8th, 2008, 05:27 PM

what do u mean test it?

Dragonhunt · December 8th, 2008, 05:30 PM

I have heard that if you unplug it and rev the engine....something is suppose to happen.

Thanks

WLJohnson05 · December 8th, 2008, 05:31 PM

Originally Posted by Dragonhunt

I have heard that if you unplug it and rev the engine....something is suppose to happen.

Thanks

yea somethin will happen, ur engine will run like shit. but i've never heard of testing ur maf

Dragonhunt · December 8th, 2008, 05:50 PM

Ok,

I had the car in park. I unplugged it, and took the engine to like 3,000 RPM. Then I plugged it back in and it sounds the same.

Any thoughts?

Stang187 · December 8th, 2008, 06:13 PM

One day I was cleaning my CAI and put it all back together into the engine and forgot to plug my MAF back in. I rode around for 3 days without my MAF plugged in like an idiot. Wondering why my car feels like its braking by itself when letting off the throttle and why my CEL was on. I figured it out finally, and called myself a nuckle head. So basically nothing except your car will feel different when braking, and shit gas mileage.

stephen · December 8th, 2008, 11:11 PM

The MAF has a heated wire inside. The temperature of the wire depends on air flow over it and the resistance of the wire depends on temperature. The calibration would be done by measuring the wire resistance at different flow rates. This would require some apparatus for measuring the flow rate. About the only test you could do yourself would be to measure the wire resistance cold to be sure the wire isn't broken. An alternative is to swap the MAF for a rebuilt one that has been calibrated.

Dragonhunt · December 9th, 2008, 12:36 PM

I will test it with a multimeter and a can of compress air(this should change the air temp. I am going to start testing everything on the car. Air Temp Sender, MAF, Cam/Crank Sensors, All Pollution devises and everything else until I figure this out.

The car stumbles bad between 1200 and 1700 PRM's

Any other things I should consider?

graystang01 · December 9th, 2008, 12:48 PM

what exactly are you trying to figure out here?

snoel123 · December 9th, 2008, 12:50 PM

Test the voltage coming off your maf sensor, should be .8 volts at idle. (800 rpm) Also inspect the wire visually to ensure they are not dirty as this will cause them to be insulated and give false readings. Be sure to backprobe the wires (HINT paperlip unfolded works well) with the sensor connected. Alot of things could cause this ignition system and fuel system would be where I started. I always check fuel pressure first as it is very easy.

snoel123 · December 9th, 2008, 12:55 PM

There are several wire in this connector and you will probably want to get a wiring diagram to ensure you are probing the right wires. Note the IAT is usually incorporated in the MAF so some MAF sensor connectors may have 4-6 wires running in them. The MAF itself has 3 wires VREF, SIG and SIG RTN. If you do not understand what these are for I would not suggest probing any circuit on your car until you educate yourself some more. I don't mean to be harsh but you could spend alot of time and money to solve the problem.

Dragonhunt · December 9th, 2008, 01:36 PM

Hey,

First I would like to say thanks to everyone for the help/thoughts on this issue.

This is what I do know.
1. I have cleaned the Air Temp Sensor, MAF sensor with sensor cleaner
2. New spark plugs from Ford (SP486) gaped at 054, New JBA 9mm ignition wires.
3. New PCV Valve
4. New Fuel Filter
5. New Air Filter
6. My car has the good rocker covers (the ones that has the plate built in so the oil does not splash directly onto the PVC Valve from the rocker arm)

I have the Hayes Manual that I will you to test the things below.

What I have not done is:
Test the ignition coil ( I heard they go bad)
Test fuel pressure.
Test Cam/Crank Sensors
Test all pollution devises.

Have I covered most of it?

December 8th, 2008, 05:26 PM	#1
Dragonhunt Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 35 iTrader: 0 reviews	Testing the MAF I have a 2000 Mustang 3.8 V6 Automatic. Is there a to Test the Mass Airflow Sensor? If so, please explain or give me a link to a How to. Thanks

December 8th, 2008, 05:27 PM	#2
WLJohnson05 MM's Database Error 2004 Mustang V6 322.8 rwhp Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: VA Posts: 13,285 iTrader: 9 reviews	what do u mean test it? __________________ I'm trying to get rid of this stuff, feel free to make me an offer!: SCT Mass Air Flow Sensor $200 Tial Wastegate Springs $40 (10psi and 3.6psi)

December 9th, 2008, 12:50 PM	#10
snoel123 Regular Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 190 iTrader: 0 reviews	Test the voltage coming off your maf sensor, should be .8 volts at idle. (800 rpm) Also inspect the wire visually to ensure they are not dirty as this will cause them to be insulated and give false readings. Be sure to backprobe the wires (HINT paperlip unfolded works well) with the sensor connected. Alot of things could cause this ignition system and fuel system would be where I started. I always check fuel pressure first as it is very easy. __________________ Certified Master Technician Also FORD certified -Auto Trans, Electrical and Electronics,Manual Trans and Differential,Diesel Engine Performance and Repair, Gasoline Engine Performance and Repair,Suspension, Climate Control and Brakes Specialist.

December 9th, 2008, 12:55 PM	#11
snoel123 Regular Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 190 iTrader: 0 reviews	There are several wire in this connector and you will probably want to get a wiring diagram to ensure you are probing the right wires. Note the IAT is usually incorporated in the MAF so some MAF sensor connectors may have 4-6 wires running in them. The MAF itself has 3 wires VREF, SIG and SIG RTN. If you do not understand what these are for I would not suggest probing any circuit on your car until you educate yourself some more. I don't mean to be harsh but you could spend alot of time and money to solve the problem. __________________ Certified Master Technician Also FORD certified -Auto Trans, Electrical and Electronics,Manual Trans and Differential,Diesel Engine Performance and Repair, Gasoline Engine Performance and Repair,Suspension, Climate Control and Brakes Specialist.

December 8th, 2008, 05:30 PM	#3
Dragonhunt Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 35 iTrader: 0 reviews	I have heard that if you unplug it and rev the engine....something is suppose to happen. Thanks

December 8th, 2008, 05:50 PM	#5
Dragonhunt Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 35 iTrader: 0 reviews	Ok, I had the car in park. I unplugged it, and took the engine to like 3,000 RPM. Then I plugged it back in and it sounds the same. Any thoughts?

December 8th, 2008, 06:13 PM	#6
Stang187 Enthusiast 2004 Mustang GT Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Florida Posts: 696 iTrader: 0 reviews	One day I was cleaning my CAI and put it all back together into the engine and forgot to plug my MAF back in. I rode around for 3 days without my MAF plugged in like an idiot. Wondering why my car feels like its braking by itself when letting off the throttle and why my CEL was on. I figured it out finally, and called myself a nuckle head. So basically nothing except your car will feel different when braking, and shit gas mileage.

December 8th, 2008, 11:11 PM	#7
stephen Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 1,262 iTrader: 0 reviews	The MAF has a heated wire inside. The temperature of the wire depends on air flow over it and the resistance of the wire depends on temperature. The calibration would be done by measuring the wire resistance at different flow rates. This would require some apparatus for measuring the flow rate. About the only test you could do yourself would be to measure the wire resistance cold to be sure the wire isn't broken. An alternative is to swap the MAF for a rebuilt one that has been calibrated.

December 9th, 2008, 12:36 PM	#8
Dragonhunt Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 35 iTrader: 0 reviews	I will test it with a multimeter and a can of compress air(this should change the air temp. I am going to start testing everything on the car. Air Temp Sender, MAF, Cam/Crank Sensors, All Pollution devises and everything else until I figure this out. The car stumbles bad between 1200 and 1700 PRM's Any other things I should consider?

December 9th, 2008, 01:36 PM	#12
Dragonhunt Newbie Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 35 iTrader: 0 reviews	Hey, First I would like to say thanks to everyone for the help/thoughts on this issue. This is what I do know. 1. I have cleaned the Air Temp Sensor, MAF sensor with sensor cleaner 2. New spark plugs from Ford (SP486) gaped at 054, New JBA 9mm ignition wires. 3. New PCV Valve 4. New Fuel Filter 5. New Air Filter 6. My car has the good rocker covers (the ones that has the plate built in so the oil does not splash directly onto the PVC Valve from the rocker arm) I have the Hayes Manual that I will you to test the things below. What I have not done is: Test the ignition coil ( I heard they go bad) Test fuel pressure. Test Cam/Crank Sensors Test all pollution devises. Have I covered most of it?

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