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#1 |
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Regular
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Need Help from the DIYs
Ok, so still having problems with the car. Spit out the following trouble codes.
P1233 P0135 P1055 It looks like it is all caused from the P1233 and having something to do with the fuel pump. This would be the second one I have had to put in. I am going to see what the manufacturer warranty on the fuel pump is, but doubt that will help me any. So my main concern is How hard is that to change? Is it a major project, or fairly simple. Anyone have any ideas, I really cannot afford to pay someone to fix it right now. |
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#2 |
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Banned
2003 V6 Mustang
14.2 @ 96
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: NC
Posts: 636
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Ive been told its not HARD but its not super simple either. You have to drop the gas tank and whatnot to replace the pump. Also are you sure its the pump? Has the fuel filter been replaced recently? If there is not enough PSI in the fuel lines it might explain the codes and would make it seem like the fuel pump is going out.
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#3 |
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MM Fanatic
KB'd GT
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 4,467
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You can replace a fuel pump in about 2hrs, even for your first time. A good tip would be to post the actual problem, instead of just the p codes. (yeah i'm too lazy to look them up, and only have a few memorized)
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#4 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,262
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P1233 is the fuel pump driver module, NOT the fuel pump. I doubt replacing the fuel pump will do any good.
The driver module is in the trunk on the left side I believe. |
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#5 |
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The soul stealing Ginger
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The inertia switch?
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#6 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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+1 behind the carpet. just pull the carpet back and viola there it is. should be pretty easy to replace. Just unhook the battery (just as a safety measure since we're messing with the fuel system). Then unplug old inertia switch and then while your at it put some dielectric grease on the new ones plug and install. reconnect battery and by then the codes should be cleared.(10mins)
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#7 |
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Regular
97 single port w/bolt ons
n/a
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: iowa
Posts: 218
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+ 1 .... thos little guys are pricey for what they are. you can temp. bypass it by cutting some wires to see if that indeed did it but do NOT do unless you are 100 % comfortable with electrical systems.
when i say cutting wires i mean eliminating the switch because it is only a SWITCH and by removing and hooking the wires back up accordingly.
__________________
![]() bolt ons for now..... split port swap very soon.... Last edited by 97fordsixer; February 1st, 2009 at 03:20 PM. |
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#8 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,262
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The driver module is separate from the inertia switch. It regulates the fuel pump pressure with input from a pressure sensor on the fuel rail.
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#9 |
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The soul stealing Ginger
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DO NOT CUT THE WIRES TO BYPASS IT, if anything strip a little wire on both ends and connect the alligator clips to make the current go around, last thing you want to do is start cutting wires away.
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#10 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,262
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The following link will give you the information to test the inertia switch
and shows where the fuel pump driver module is Fuel Pump Speed Controls Add to Diagnostic Complexity |
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#11 |
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Regular
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Ok, so that little read was a bit hard to follow. Is the fuel pump driver module the one that is up under the hood by the engine somewhere, or the one on top of the fuel tank, and I still have to drop the tank?
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#12 |
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Regular
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