[SleeperStang88]

ok....im looking to get a shift kit, but dont know wat to get....
any idea how much it would cost to get one put in? i hear it is fairly easy and doesnt cost much

[ajm]

Id go fairbanks or transgo. As for putting it in, its easy to do yourself, but im sure a shop wouldnt charge too much if you dont want to fool with it yourself. Your best bet would be to call around and get a quote.

Not trying to be mr sales man but I have a transgo aode-hd2 kit I used for about 200 miles im lookin to sell for $50.

The b&m is another cheap option but its a fairly cheap kit and from my experience makes shifts pretty uncomfortable. Even at low cruising speeds such as light to light in town it slams the hell out of you which gets old at times. The fairbanks and transgo seem to make a noticable difference when driving lightly and such but when you get it on it theyll really shine.

[SleeperStang88]

i forgot to mention that i have an automatic....so if that makes the difference.... and why are you looking to sell your kit?

[ajm]

It doesnt make a difference as an automatic is all you can put a shift kit in. Im almost 100% sure you have the 4r70w but to be sure go look at the white vin tag in your door jamb and check the code, it is probably going to be U, you are looking for the code that will be around "TR" on the tag. Im looking to sell it because I dont use it anymore, I got it just to try. I always found it amusing how people are arguing about which shift kit is best etc so I bought a few different ones over time and gave them all a try.

[SleeperStang88]

did you put it in yourself? and did the kit make a difference on your stang? i am interested...how much was the kit when you bought it?

[ajm]

Yea I put it in myself its quite easy, the instructions are pretty straight foward and simple. It did make a difference especially the 1-2, and 2-3 shifts. I paid right around 100 for it when I got it. The only thing youd need is a new separator plate and valve body to case gasket since they cant be reused and I dont have any laying around. Theyre about $5-7 a piece at the dealership.

[SleeperStang88]

so i need a separator plate and a new valve body? and gasket of course

[ajm]

No, no need for a separator plate and valve body etc. The kit installs into your current valve body and holes are drilled into the separator plate. You just need the gaskets. I guess I could have phrased things better. You would need a "separator plate gasket" and "valve body to case gasket". The separator plate gasket goes between your separator plate and valve body, and the valve body to case gasket goes between the valve body and transmission case.

[SleeperStang88]

oh ok , that makes a little more sense lol
so real quick explain the jist of putting it in....i have to drill holes in my vavle body?

[ajm]

Ill write this up as quick/simple as I can so youre not reading a book then if you have any specific questions let me know.

You drop your pan (14 bolts)
Remove a plastic L shaped part electrical connector that connects to the tcc soleniod and all that stuff
Remove the flilter (just pulls right out)
Remove the valve body (dont remember exactly how many bolts)
Once you have the valve body out lay it on a clean table
Clean the valve body off really well with some carb cleaner/brake clean etc so its nice and clean to work with.
Remove the separator plate and then you remove little clips holding valves into the valve body, slip the specified valve/springs out, and slip the color coded replacements back in place and put the clips back in.
you remove the 1-2 accumulator piston and install new springs and a spacer/washer thing for even firmer shifts.
You now find specified holes on your separator plate (directions are really good about showing you which ones) and drill them out bigger with the provided bits
clean off the separator plate with your cleaner and put it back on torquing bolts in order/spec
reinstall the valve body torquing in sequence/spec
reinstall the filter
reinstall the pan torquing in sequence/spec

The most pain in the butt part of the job is dropping the pan since there is no drain plug and fluid is sitting in the pan. What has worked best for me is jacking up one side of the car so all the fluid in the pan is tilted to one side. Remove all of the pan bolts except for 2 on each "long side" and one on the short sides. Then slowly start to loosen each bolt and the fluid will start to drain out of the side of the pan slanted down. After it drains hold the pan up to the case with one hand and remove the remaining bolts with your other hand and drop it down.

I sent you a pm so I dont cluttler up your thread.

[SleeperStang88]

ok cool, that doesnt seem to hard, i think i could manage....so why are you keeping the fairbanks shift kit and not this one?

[ajm]

The fairbanks has a bit more "adjust ability" to it and not many people use them so I figured id be the outcast and stick with it rather than the transgo.

[SleeperStang88]

ok cool, so transgo will be good for a shift kit so where you from then?

[ajm]

Theres a lot of people that like them a lot. Im in knoxville tn.

[SleeperStang88]

ok youre not too far.... go to PM

[ESG-642T]

Jmod > transgo

[ajm]

Does the jmod support any weak areas of the valve body? Only thing jmod is good for is a cheap way to make it shift firmer/faster.

[SleeperStang88]

i was considering doing the jmod instead of a shift kit but the price is right and it sounds like the shift kit will do a lil more than the jmod

[casper gt]

the j-mod is not worth the time to install, don't let anyone b.s. you. either get a quality shift kit or leave it alone. I have a trans-go in mine but others like fairbanks, either one will work just fine for you. do some research & pick the one that works best for you.

[ajm]

Hey casper, just the guy I was lookin for lol. I figured this was going to turn into a "omfg jmod ftmfw +1051156" thread when its flat out junk and id be the only one out of 10000 people saying its junk.