[goren813]

Show of hands... who has worked on or installed a clutch on a 99-04 or removed the bell housing for any other reason.

[mooses]

Not hard at all. What's your question?

[goren813]

At all? Hmm... my question was who has done it. I started to feel like a lot of people on here go to give info when they haven't even done the job themselves. I don't believe it's hard, but it is one tedious mother. Lord the two top bolts on the B.H. have me hell the angle is so ridic. Now I'm at the flywheel and with all bolts removed the thing doesn't want to come off. I was just asking to see how many REAL do-it-yourself'ers we had... and you sir seem to be the only one next to me who has done this... somewhat surprises me but then not really when I sit and think about it. Lots of people just regurgitate (sp.) info when they have no hands-on experience with a job and couldn't tell you what was hard, a trick for this, etc. I'm going to do a complete installation write-up with pics. The ones I had for clutch and clutch adjuster kit don't go through removing anything up until the pilot bearing. I actually think I may do a whole series of write-ups for everything I've done, which has become a long list.... just ranting away my frustration of a long weekend project....

[mooses]

I understand. When I did my 5 spd swap, getting the top bolts off the auto trans were a pain in the ass. I think taking off the 5 spd bellhousing is easier because you can remove the transmission seperately. I went to Lowes and bought about 3 feet of extensions and a swivel and it made it a cakewalk. I had also soaked them in PB blaster, so that probably helped too. Those extensions have served me well on the past 3 clutch jobs I've done.

I know what you mean about writeups being lacking information. I wanted to stab whoever wrote the "how to remove automatic transmission" writeup that I was using.

[goren813]

yeah I ended using PB blaster on those top 2 B.H. bolts and it made it easier... looking for flexible socket extensions is a bitch too no local place sells them... I only found 1/4" one at NAPA of all places and it was too weak... and the tranny coming of separate def. helped... now this damn Flywheel is stuck on... lordy I wish the car wasn't 30min. from my condo it would make it a lil easier... at least someone else has shared in my frustrations...

[stephen]

I haven't done an R&R of a manual transmission or clutch on this car, but I have removed the automatic transmission and removed and rebuilt the 3.8L engine. I've done quite a number of clutches on other cars.

The shop manual doesn't suggest removing the transmission from the bell housing but I have heard of doing it that way. The top two bell housing bolts are hard to get to. I suggested earlier removing the upper intake manifold to get access to them. I used a combination wrench and length of pipe for extra leverage. The shop manual recommends letting the transmission and engine angle down so you can reach them with a socket and extension. You are supposed to remove the dual convertor y-pipe first.

I would suggest Sears as a place to get universal adaptors. They also have an adaptor called a wobble adaptor (I believe) that might work well.

On the automatic once you take out the bolts the flex plate comes right off. I don't know what would be holding the flywheel once the bolts are out. Perhaps there are some dowels that are a light press fit. The shop manual doesn't seem to say anything about this being a problem. Have you removed the pilot bearing? It shows a slide hammer tool for that. That tool should be readily available from a rental place.

[stephen]

This is a generic procedure for a clutch replacement on an earlier model mustang

CarTech, Inc.: Browsing Fox-Body Mustang Clutch Install

[RedDevilGT]

I just changed out my clutch a month ago (yes by myself) and i'm about ready to do it all again due to the shitty throwout bearing that came from the factory. Those top two bolts are a pain in the ass like you guys stated, i also had to use 3 extensions and a swivel head adapter to get mine off. And yes you have to remove the dual convertor y-pipe or else it's impossible to get the bell housing off. It would be nice if you made a guide for other people who have not done this job before cause i could have surely used one doing it my first time around.

[mmikeclass06]

Originally Posted by goren420 At all? Hmm.... I started to feel like a lot of people on here go to give info when they haven't even done the job themselves.

i agree. and the ones who have normal cant tell when others havent cause there steps and process are either drirectly from alldata or hanes. or they guess out there rears and hope they get it right

[goren813]

Mattman... did you remove theflywheel for resurfacing/replacement?

[stephen]

Here's exactly how to do it

DDDTV - '03 Mustang Cobra Spec 3+ Clutch Install - LiveVideo.com

[Garman91]

Originally Posted by mooses about 3 feet of extensions and a swivel and it made it a cakewalk

+1 Worked like a charm. Although I also pulled the upper intake plenum and had a buddy line the socket up on the bolt... he has these little ethiopian arms (its great!)

Tried to pull the bellhousing w/ the transmission (5 spd)... Will never happen. Had to pull the trans first then bellhousing was a snap...

[goren813]

Yeah I wasn't about to take the intakes off I just worked from underneath... got the flywheel to the machine shop, they were done within an hour, $36 it looks brand new. Now as soon as I cant get back to my baby I just to install all the new parts, I'll definately have a full write-up afterwards...

[RedDevilGT]

Originally Posted by goren420 Mattman... did you remove theflywheel for resurfacing/replacement?

of course

[goren813]

Lord have mercy... so my dad had found this write-up to a clutch install online that I used alongside the ones off of AM. The guy suggests putting a couple screws into the rear main seal to use as handles to pull it out. It sounded odd but I tried it to no luck. I then attempted the simple flathead screwdriver as lever idea and it came right out. However, the screws I attempted to use scored up the sides of the crank where the seal sits. I know this isn't good cuz oil can leak through these marks... so we have been sanding down the crank slightly to get as much of the marks out as possible. In doing this could it get worse? Sanding off too much metal can make the crank smaller, not allowing the seal to fit right, causing oil to leak anyway... am I going about this right? What should I do? Let it go the way it is and hope it works? Or sand it smooth and hope that the 3/1000 " isn't too much material...

[stephen]

I believe there is a sleeve that can be installed on the crankshaft to fix the damage to the seal surface. I would look into that before trying to polish the surface, but if you used very fine emery cloth that might work too.

[stephen]

This is some information on the repair sleeves

https://extranet.federal-mogul.com/c...ers/index.html

STATE-OF-THE-ART

Crankshaft: Grooves at the Rear Main Bearing Seal Area

Although rear main bearing seals are softer than the steel parts they contact, dirt and other abrasive debris can collect under the seal lip area and cause a groove to wear into the crankshaft. The result is a leaky rear main seal. Simply installing a new seal may not correct the leak.


Note groove in crankshaft

The technician's choices include:

Paying hundreds of dollars for a new crankshaft

Welding and remachining the crankshaft sealing surface area

Attempting to move the seal to a different position on the shaft
These alternatives, like those for harmonic balancers, are either too expensive, too time-consuming or too risky to make them attractive.


Please click on image for a larger version

Crankshaft Repair Sleeves are the Answer

FEL-PRO® Crankshaft Repair Sleeves are offered as part of the Engine$aver® Hardware line. By installing a Crankshaft Repair Sleeve, technicians can keep the repair cost low and still provide an effective seal. It's an approach that's sure to be popular with customers dealing with price-conscious consumers. A complete line of correctly-sized installation tools is also available to make crankshaft repair sleeves easier to press into place quickly and accurately.

[Garman91]

Originally Posted by goren420 I started to feel like a lot of people on here go to give info when they haven't even done the job themselves.

Never had that problem, not gonna even attempt to give advice on that...

Best of luck my friend!

[goren813]

Great find Stephen, Haynes Manual says the only way to repair damaging the crank is a new one... but I find those repair sleeves everywhere, the link you gave didn't work but I see Napa has them. I figure you just fit that sleeve around the crank and it provides a sufficient surface for the rear main seal? If you have info on how they are used it would be much appreciated. Reps...

[stephen]

This link should take you to the Federal Mogul online catalog.

Federal-Mogul's Complete Automotive Light Duty Catalog - Vehicle Look-up

I believe you need sleeve 99363
and the tool 16300 to install it.