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Discussing Header Removal in the V6 Mustangs Forum. Guys: I was mounting my JBA headers on my 2005 V6 Mustand and have not ...

       

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Old January 21st, 2007, 04:41 PM   #1
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Header Removal


Guys:

I was mounting my JBA headers on my 2005 V6 Mustand and have not been able to remove the stock exhaust maniforld studs from the head.

I tried to take them out with and E7 torx socket, the male end just broke. I tried to double nut them and the studs will not move. The temperature is about 36 degrees in my garage.

I also tried a bit of heat to the head and vise grips to the stud, still no movement.

Any ideas...No I will not take it to the Ford Dealer....
 
Old January 21st, 2007, 04:51 PM   #2
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get a haynes manual
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Old January 21st, 2007, 07:37 PM   #3
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why remove the studs? your headers wont bolt up in the stock location? not sure for the 05+, but when i bolted mac long tubes on my 99, i just needed the new manifold gaskets and 6 nuts...
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Old January 21st, 2007, 07:52 PM   #4
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i wouldn't risk removing the studs if you snap that off in the block its going to be a huge HUGE pain in the ass to drill and tap the broken stud out.
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Old January 22nd, 2007, 10:49 AM   #5
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Studs need to be removed to take off the stock exhaust manifold. I took the wifes blow dryer and heated the exhaust ports for a few hours....yes it worked.

When you have an aluminum head and 4140 case hard studs, the cold sucks/shrinks the aluminum around the stud by as much as .015. The trick is to heat the aluminum head around the stud without heating the stud to much.

Thanks for the advice:-)
 
Old January 22nd, 2007, 10:52 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by deepcave2
Studs need to be removed to take off the stock exhaust manifold. I took the wifes blow dryer and heated the exhaust ports for a few hours....yes it worked.

When you have an aluminum head and 4140 case hard studs, the cold sucks/shrinks the aluminum around the stud by as much as .015. The trick is to heat the aluminum head around the stud without heating the stud to much.

Thanks for the advice:-)
i still don't see why the studs have to be removed to take of the manifolds. they are bolted on- just use an impact wrench and remove the 2 bolts per flange tube = 6 bolts per side (staggared of course) and work from rear to front. this is how i did it for my car, and i dont see why there would be a difference in yours. the flange design on the s-197 headers is exactly the same as the previous essex 3.8L motors
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Old January 22nd, 2007, 12:08 PM   #7
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Why do they need to be removed? I don't even see how clearance would be the issue, and thats the only issue I could think of aside from the headers being stuck...umm so why did you have to remove them?
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Old January 24th, 2007, 05:08 PM   #8
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Guys:

The studs have to be removed because they interfer witht the exhaust tubes on the headers and do not allow you to seat the header flange.

Guess you all got lucky...
 
Old January 24th, 2007, 05:12 PM   #9
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never heard such a thing deepcave...

i never f'd with the exhuast tubes when i did my bros 98
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Old January 24th, 2007, 06:57 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by deepcave2
Guys:

The studs have to be removed because they interfer witht the exhaust tubes on the headers and do not allow you to seat the header flange.

Guess you all got lucky...
naw, we bought mac long tubes
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Old January 25th, 2007, 05:10 PM   #11
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Well now you have heard of it....give JBA a call and ask them about their tube bends. And then ask them about the interference of the stock exhaust manifold studs on the 4.0L V6 with their headers.

Quickest way to remove the studs is with a little heat, a sharp blow on the top of the stud and a Lisle stud remover.

For any of you Redneck Mechanics out there, just cut the interfering studs off a bit. Then grind the burr and recut the threads with a die.
 
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