[mustangv600]

I jacked my car up and it is a T-lok both the tires spin at exactly the same time so now I just have to get the housing fixed and maybe upgrade the gears what are stock??? I want 4.10s but I plan on turbocharging the car in like a year and a half should I just get the transmission shift kit and a tuner now???
7.5" I'm sure but it is a limited slip differential my bad does anyone know how much hp a 7.5 can hold?

[ApeXX]

It also depends on what transmission you're running. For a manual I'd recommend 3.73's, an automatic 4.10's.

Although to be honest I'm not sure what would be best to run if you're going to turbo it... Probably wouldn't change much I would guess (in regards to the appropriate gears).

[2002 BLK GT]

Your stock gears are 3.27 for the turbo It will be your choice between the stock ones or 3.73 but most people get the 3.73....

[mooses]

If you really have an 8.8 rear, I'd go with 3.55s.

[Arsenical]

Originally Posted by mustangv600 I jacked my car up and it is a T-lok both the tires spin at exactly the same time so now I just have to get the housing fixed and maybe upgrade the gears what are stock??? I want 4.10s but I plan on turbocharging the car in like a year and a half should I just get the transmission shift kit and a tuner now??? Measured it its an 8.8" rear end lol so now I don't need a $600 upgrade

Thats a sweet deal that you already have a t-lok! And a 8.8!?

[orson250]

when i bought mine, it had a tlok on it.....wish it had an 8.8 though...good find!

[Cricket]

If your going with forced induction. Steeper gears are not always the answer. Steeper gears means you are out of the gear faster, and out of boost faster. You want to be able to use whatever you are getting to it's advantage, and rushing through the gears is not what you want. Yes, you can get away with 4.10s with an auto and boost, but I wouldn't recommend anything higher than that.

[ApeXX]

Originally Posted by Arsenical Thats a sweet deal that you already have a t-lok! And a 8.8!?

I'm assuming the 8.8 rearend is more durable than the 7.5?

Since 8.8 3.73's and t-lok are only a little more expensive, should I go with them instead of the normal 7.5?

Or is it only worth it if you get the complete 8.8 rearend, not just 8.8 gears and t-lok?

[mooses]

Originally Posted by ApeXX I'm assuming the 8.8 rearend is more durable than the 7.5? Since 8.8 3.73's and t-lok are only a little more expensive, should I go with them instead of the normal 7.5? Or is it only worth it if you get the complete 8.8 rearend, not just 8.8 gears and t-lok?

Well if you buy 8.8 gears and tlok, they cannot fit in a 7.5 rear end. Is that what you are asking?

[04mustang232]

Are you sure jacking your car up and hitting the gas will show you if you have tloc? I thought the wheels had to be under some what of a load to prevent one of the wheels from spinning. Anyone kinda get where im going with this?

And if your boosting your car, i wouldn't go higher than 3.73s even with an auto.

[2002 BLK GT]

Originally Posted by ApeXX I'm assuming the 8.8 rearend is more durable than the 7.5? Since 8.8 3.73's and t-lok are only a little more expensive, should I go with them instead of the normal 7.5? Or is it only worth it if you get the complete 8.8 rearend, not just 8.8 gears and t-lok?

If you don't plan to hit the track often, launch hard the t-lok will be fine but theres always a change that will fail some people have s/c and the t-lok is still fine and some people have just bolt ons and they break them so up to you depending on the money.

The 8.8 is better but cost more money not to mention the installation and the 150~200 more lbs.... There's still stronger rear ends than the 8.8 trutrac for ex...

[ApeXX]

Originally Posted by mooses Well if you buy 8.8 gears and tlok, they cannot fit in a 7.5 rear end. Is that what you are asking?

No sorry the way I worded it was awkward... I was in a rush and didn't get a chance to re-read it haha.

Basically what I was asking is if you put on a stock 8.8 rear end on a 7.5, which I've been told is possible, should you upgrade the stock 8.8 rear posi with an aftermarket one. Also, since you have the 8.8 back end, you can install 8.8 3.73's correct?

That was what I was talking about, sorry for the confusion.

[orson250]

Originally Posted by 04mustang232 Are you sure jacking your car up and hitting the gas will show you if you have tloc? I thought the wheels had to be under some what of a load to prevent one of the wheels from spinning. Anyone kinda get where im going with this? And if your boosting your car, i wouldn't go higher than 3.73s even with an auto.

you can jack the rear end up and turn one wheel by hand, and if the other wheel spins i believe, then you have tlok

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by orson250 you can jack the rear end up and turn one wheel by hand, and if the other wheel spins i believe, then you have tlok

If it the tranny is in gear/park, and you spin one tire and the other spins the same way, you have some form of limited slip.

What exactly did you measure to determine you had an 8.8"? You can tell by the shape of the housing:

[2002 BLK GT]

Thanks for finally clarifying the difference reps...

Edit:
Sorry, yes the 8.8 doesnt weight 100 more......

[mooses]

Originally Posted by ApeXX No sorry the way I worded it was awkward... I was in a rush and didn't get a chance to re-read it haha. Basically what I was asking is if you put on a stock 8.8 rear end on a 7.5, which I've been told is possible, should you upgrade the stock 8.8 rear posi with an aftermarket one. Also, since you have the 8.8 back end, you can install 8.8 3.73's correct? That was what I was talking about, sorry for the confusion.

Oh. If you do buy an 8.8 rear, you won't need to upgrade to an aftermarket differential. The 8.8 tlok is quite a bit stronger than our little 7.5 ones, although it still isn't as strong as a detroit truetrac'd 7.5. Yes, you can install 8.8 3.73s once you have the 8.8 rear end.

[04mustang232]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter If it the tranny is in gear/park, and you spin one tire and the other spins the same way, you have some form of limited slip. What exactly did you measure to determine you had an 8.8"? You can tell by the shape of the housing:

im wondering the same thing, because who just throws in an 8.8 and then sells their v6? Especially if no other major mods are done.

[mustangv600]

Originally Posted by 04mustang232 im wondering the same thing, because who just throws in an 8.8 and then sells their v6? Especially if no other major mods are done.

He sold me the car because he needed a better car for up north and he said he wanted a better car or a newer mustang and thats the only reason he got rid of it and remember i said he had been upgrading the car before it was sold to me and even under jack and spinning one wheel both turn exactly the same time and same way he told me the car was a project car but he never got to the point where he wanted to be cause he really needed a more economical car ill check into the size of it later
and if I dont have an 8.8 i will with my next paycheck this week

[ApeXX]

So here's the deal: I'm trying to break down the advantages/disadvantages of a 8.8 setup vs. a 7.5 setup. This relates to the OP's question so I don't feel like I'm hijacking... Are the 8.8's t-loks really that much of a step-up (in regards to the 7.5) that would warrant the 200lb increase?

[ReverendDexter]

200 lbs? Where are you getting that number?

I don't even think it's a 200lb difference to go to the IRS. The 8.8" rear MIGHT be 30 lbs heavier than a 7.5".

That being said, you're going to have a little more rotating mass, and a little more parasitic loss because of it, to gain a fairly significant jump in strength, and easier to source parts/upgrades.

I would look at the rest of your plan for the vehicle. If you're talking about adding a lot of power, than yes, an 8.8 would be worth it. If you're gonna abuse the crap out of it, than an 8.8 would give you some extra reliability.