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Old February 2nd, 2007, 12:56 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by 97stanger
Originally Posted by turp
Umm since there seems to be a number of people on both sides of the fence on this one I will clear the air for you. The piston on the rear disc assy. can be rotated in by using a two pronged spanner wrench BUT can also be pushed in using a c-clamp. Either way works fine but you will have to make sure to bleed the brakes if you use the c-clamp method. Just for your info it is always reccomended to bleed the brakes after a brake job anyways and to replace all the fluid in the lines at 15,000 miles anyways. I hope this helps you out!!!
Thanks Screemin3o2, I thought the other were wrong.

Ok Turp, are you 100% sure that it CAN also be pushed in with a c-clamp. I knew thats how the front one were done, but i've never seen a set-up like the rear ones. It is made to SCREW in, by force pushing it back to it's relaxed position, will anything get screwed up at all? I don't want to offend you, but it doesnt seem like a good idea to push it in. It's like trying to screw a nail into a fence and hammer a screw into drywall, ya know?
It's all good man.. Like I said either way is fine but if you use a c-clamp you will get air in your system and will need to bleed them for sure. I promise you man you will not hurt the sytem at all. The best way to tell if you need to bleed the brakes to check the pedal after and see how it feels. Sponginess means there is air that needs to be bled.
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Old February 2nd, 2007, 01:00 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by turp
Originally Posted by 97stanger
Originally Posted by turp
Umm since there seems to be a number of people on both sides of the fence on this one I will clear the air for you. The piston on the rear disc assy. can be rotated in by using a two pronged spanner wrench BUT can also be pushed in using a c-clamp. Either way works fine but you will have to make sure to bleed the brakes if you use the c-clamp method. Just for your info it is always reccomended to bleed the brakes after a brake job anyways and to replace all the fluid in the lines at 15,000 miles anyways. I hope this helps you out!!!
Thanks Screemin3o2, I thought the other were wrong.

Ok Turp, are you 100% sure that it CAN also be pushed in with a c-clamp. I knew thats how the front one were done, but i've never seen a set-up like the rear ones. It is made to SCREW in, by force pushing it back to it's relaxed position, will anything get screwed up at all? I don't want to offend you, but it doesnt seem like a good idea to push it in. It's like trying to screw a nail into a fence and hammer a screw into drywall, ya know?
It's all good man.. Like I said either way is fine but if you use a c-clamp you will get air in your system and will need to bleed them for sure. I promise you man you will not hurt the sytem at all. The best way to tell if you need to bleed the brakes to check the pedal after and see how it feels. Sponginess means there is air that needs to be bled.
wonderful. I got a lot to learn about these wonderful pieces of machinery. lol. when I use a c-clamp on the rear, should i just put the clamp in the middle and just turn until it moves? or will it move easily? or do I need to use a piece of wood or old pad?
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Old February 2nd, 2007, 10:00 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by turp
Originally Posted by Juggalo_X
Originally Posted by 3.8Coastie
very awesome info... thanks turp!!
ass kisser lol j/k good to see the wife lets u on still lol
HEY NOW, Don't bash him!!! The line to kiss my ass is very long and distinguished!!!
give me a address if its not to late id like to mapquest it and start kissing some ass too
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