2003 Black v6 project...

February 4th, 2007, 07:47 PM

pacino28

Newbie

2005 GT Mustang

Join Date: Feb 2007

Location: Ottawa

Posts: 2

2003 Black v6 project...

Hey im new to the forum and thought i would get some ideas from some of the experts on this site for modding my stang.

I have a black 2003 V6 stang... last year I purchased 17"inch American Torq thurst 2 rims with falken tires. Looks sweet...

This year im planning to drop the car an 1.5 inches and add a saleen style body kit. I just bought the kit and lowering springs at 1.5 inch drop. With a 1.5 inch drop would I have to have a camber kit added so I dont wear down my tires?

Also... having a V6 and adding a Saleen style kite... I need to have the duals to make it look nice on the kit... whats the best thing to do with that without spending too much money?

I've attahed a pic of my stang before adding the kit and lowering... let me know if anyone has any ideas on making it look nicer after the kit.. Im also having a hard time deciding if i want to take off the white runner on the side that says mustang after I add the kit.

Let me know... Thanx.

Attached Images

thestang_672.jpg (346.7 KB, 72 views)

February 4th, 2007, 08:25 PM	#2
Luvdmustang Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: silent hill Posts: 1,286	welcome to the site __________________ http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w...llcardcopy.jpg

February 4th, 2007, 08:28 PM	#3
Sa-WaitNoMustang900Turbo Regular Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 462	first off, it looks pretty good with what you have. BUT, I would suggest not going to over the top visually, because you can do certain things, that might seem little, but make a HUGE difference for looks.(and save you money over a body kit) Lowering it 1.5" (with ford c springs i assume) is one of them.(it also can help performance) for dual exhaust: def. go with a true dual set up, that means getting rid of your Y pipe for an X or H; then getting a cat back for the GT. Depending on what emissions laws your area has, you can do different things from there. __________________ http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...borbmw_156.jpg God... That Euro import guy is really starting to get on my nerves... my car can only beat his in a strait line(maybe)

February 4th, 2007, 08:37 PM	#4
GreenFaleen Resident MM Ricer 2006 Scion tC 13.9@103/8.9@81 Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Raleigh/Lenoir, NC Posts: 9,385	welcome. I got that kit be careful with curbs and that drop I am stock height and barely clear them. For duals I got true duals from a muffler shop with tips for 400 added a crossover pipe later on for 35 bucks sounds great and looks good check out my garage for pics. __________________ Scion Tc-strup racing header, CAI, Ground Kit, NOS 100shot, Custom suspension, Doc. I 50% STS MM 4 Banger club: Senior Ricer "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." -Carroll Shelby Thanks To My Sponsors: Strup Performance

February 4th, 2007, 10:35 PM

232stang

Hardcore Enthusiast

1995 BMW 325i

Join Date: Nov 2006

Location: houston, texas

Posts: 2,861

it looks good, but if you do get the saleen kit i say definetly get rid of the white mustang on the side. but those wheels+tires are the shit man!

__________________
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Originally Posted by Cesar2cool

lol i use my car for speed

February 4th, 2007, 11:12 PM	#6
Steamboat 16 Enthusiast Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Steamboat Springs, CO Posts: 689	Sweet car, heres what i would do proformance wise: think if you are working on modding a car and working on a tight budget you must make a choice. You can go for appearance and the car will look great but still feel like your driving a Taurus or you can leave the appearance as is (which I don’t think they look bad at all) and focus on performance. With a small investment, less than the cost of putting a super charger on and hopefully get to the high 13’s or low 14’s I’ll tell you how to mod the car to run 12’s for around $3,000. Learn to do the work yourself. If you can’t and you’re not rich then modding a car might not be for you. Read books, jump in and do it and learn as you go, nothing is that hard that it can’t be learned through doing it. There are plenty of places to ask questions and get answers. First off, go with the biggest bang for the buck mods, and a cold air intake is not one of them. All of the mods that I’m going to suggest are big bang for the buck mods. First- UD pulleys- They are not a must but they do help. For the $80-90 you will spend on them new they are worth a couple of horse power. They are not a big gain item. Look for used gears, used just means cheaper. Your cost is at $85 Exhaust- Not a real big gainer either unless you have bigger mods to support it. You don’t have to spend an arm and a leg on exhaust. You can go to a muffler shop and have them build you a dual set up cheaper than what any cat-back or after market company can offer after shipping. I paid $250 for my duals with flow masters. I wouldn’t pay much over that for an exhaust system. Cost is at $335 T-loc- If you are pushing any power you want to be able to get traction. I’m using a used T-loc that has been rebuilt. I’ve had it in my car now for 5 years under some pretty good abuse and never had a problem. I paid $100 for mine; look for a deal on one I wouldn’t pay any more than $250 for one on a budget. Gears- Make a choice 3.73’s or 4.10’s. See which ones will be right for you. Gears are something that personally I would not get used. I bought Richmond’s new and never had a problem with them for $165. I would not suggest installing your own gears and T-loc unless you really know what you doing so I factored in an average $300 installation fee. Cost is at $1050 ($165 for gears), ($250 for T-loc), ($300 for installation) K&N filter- I personally think that a K&N filter in the stock air intake tube is just as good as a CAI. That is just my opinion so I would spend the $25 for the filter and leave it at that. Cost is at $1075 Cam- You will really notice a big difference in the car with a cam. I am using a 207 cam from RPM and really like it. All in all they are a little tricky to install but nothing that anyone who was taking their time and had a good over view of the procedure with a manual couldn’t do. I paid around $180 for my cam. Heads- These will make the biggest difference in performance. They are pricy though too. Super Six sells a pretty good set for around $1000. I got mine from Gaston who P&P’s them (from V6power.com) for $500. I really like them and he did a fantastic job. While the heads are off this is the best time to do the cam, no worries about holding the valves up and just makes things simpler to do. I also think putting valve spring on heads is a lot easier when they are not on the car. Valve springs- You will need to get a set of valve springs to go along with the cam and perhaps some push rods. I suggest the adjustable roller rockers and then you can keep you stock push rods. Expect to pay around $100 for a set of springs. Gaskets- they are more expensive than you think. For upper and lower intake, head, water pump and front seal along with head bolts it cost me around $250. I got all Fel-pro stuff. Cost is at $2355 ($750 for heads), ($180 for cam), ($100 for valve springs), ($250 for gaskets) Roller rockers- They make a big difference over stock rockers and you can tell why when you look at them side by side. I suggest the adjustable rockers. They are around $255 for non adjustable and $360 for adjustable. Cost is at $2715 Nitrous- nitrous is the biggest bang for the buck mod there is. With no other mod can you spend $500 and get 100 hp out of it. I like the Zex kits but NX is also a very good brand. You can save a lot of money getting a used kit. EBay is always full of them and they come up for sale on the boards from time to time. I paid right around $500 for mine and around another $150 for accessories. Cost is at $3365 Tuner or chip- I like the SCT X-cal. For $420 you can’t get a better deal. Chips can tune as well but you are stuck with what is on the chips and if you change your tune needs they have to be sent off and reprogrammed. The chips run around $350. Cost is at $3785 ($420 for tuner) Other misc. stuff your going to need along the way like a Maf can be found for cheap as well used. I found my maf for free from a friend. Keep your eyes open for any thing you think you might need. If you can get a part for free and you might not use it you can always sell or trade it for something that you do need. Autos may need additional help as well. The addition of a higher stall torque converter would help tons with the power and speed. 1998 V6- A few mods, kind of quick at12.9@106 on the quarter __________________ Sex, Eating, and Driving Fast, the Three Greats in life and I can do all of them without leaving my MGM

February 4th, 2007, 11:30 PM	#7
Bies08 Enthusiast Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Manhattan, Kansas Posts: 760	hey pacino...what % is your tint? sweet car man....mines bout the same..except hte rims and tires...then i got the gt hood scoop....looks bad ass tho! __________________ If you aren't first.....your last! http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s...7_19/Bsig2.jpg

February 5th, 2007, 12:18 AM	#8
xxrals22xx Regular Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: saco, ME Posts: 429	god do i wish my weather was liek that right now then having snow on the ground __________________ http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...tattoos_-1.jpg

February 5th, 2007, 12:25 AM

Texan_Stud

Hardcore Enthusiast

Join Date: Jan 2007

Location: Saginaw, Texas

Posts: 1,385

Originally Posted by Steamboat 16

Sweet car, heres what i would do proformance wise:

think if you are working on modding a car and working on a tight budget you must make a choice. You can go for appearance and the car will look great but still feel like your driving a Taurus or you can leave the appearance as is (which I don’t think they look bad at all) and focus on performance. With a small investment, less than the cost of putting a super charger on and hopefully get to the high 13’s or low 14’s I’ll tell you how to mod the car to run 12’s for around $3,000. Learn to do the work yourself. If you can’t and you’re not rich then modding a car might not be for you. Read books, jump in and do it and learn as you go, nothing is that hard that it can’t be learned through doing it. There are plenty of places to ask questions and get answers.

First off, go with the biggest bang for the buck mods, and a cold air intake is not one of them. All of the mods that I’m going to suggest are big bang for the buck mods.

First- UD pulleys- They are not a must but they do help. For the $80-90 you will spend on them new they are worth a couple of horse power. They are not a big gain item. Look for used gears, used just means cheaper.

Your cost is at $85

Exhaust- Not a real big gainer either unless you have bigger mods to support it. You don’t have to spend an arm and a leg on exhaust. You can go to a muffler shop and have them build you a dual set up cheaper than what any cat-back or after market company can offer after shipping. I paid $250 for my duals with flow masters. I wouldn’t pay much over that for an exhaust system.

Cost is at $335

T-loc- If you are pushing any power you want to be able to get traction. I’m using a used T-loc that has been rebuilt. I’ve had it in my car now for 5 years under some pretty good abuse and never had a problem. I paid $100 for mine; look for a deal on one I wouldn’t pay any more than $250 for one on a budget.

Gears- Make a choice 3.73’s or 4.10’s. See which ones will be right for you. Gears are something that personally I would not get used. I bought Richmond’s new and never had a problem with them for $165. I would not suggest installing your own gears and T-loc unless you really know what you doing so I factored in an average $300 installation fee.

Cost is at $1050 ($165 for gears), ($250 for T-loc), ($300 for installation)

K&N filter- I personally think that a K&N filter in the stock air intake tube is just as good as a CAI. That is just my opinion so I would spend the $25 for the filter and leave it at that.

Cost is at $1075

Cam- You will really notice a big difference in the car with a cam. I am using a 207 cam from RPM and really like it. All in all they are a little tricky to install but nothing that anyone who was taking their time and had a good over view of the procedure with a manual couldn’t do. I paid around $180 for my cam.

Heads- These will make the biggest difference in performance. They are pricy though too. Super Six sells a pretty good set for around $1000. I got mine from Gaston who P&P’s them (from V6power.com) for $500. I really like them and he did a fantastic job. While the heads are off this is the best time to do the cam, no worries about holding the valves up and just makes things simpler to do. I also think putting valve spring on heads is a lot easier when they are not on the car.

Valve springs- You will need to get a set of valve springs to go along with the cam and perhaps some push rods. I suggest the adjustable roller rockers and then you can keep you stock push rods. Expect to pay around $100 for a set of springs.

Gaskets- they are more expensive than you think. For upper and lower intake, head, water pump and front seal along with head bolts it cost me around $250. I got all Fel-pro stuff.

Cost is at $2355 ($750 for heads), ($180 for cam), ($100 for valve springs), ($250 for gaskets)

Roller rockers- They make a big difference over stock rockers and you can tell why when you look at them side by side. I suggest the adjustable rockers. They are around $255 for non adjustable and $360 for adjustable.

Cost is at $2715

Nitrous- nitrous is the biggest bang for the buck mod there is. With no other mod can you spend $500 and get 100 hp out of it. I like the Zex kits but NX is also a very good brand. You can save a lot of money getting a used kit. EBay is always full of them and they come up for sale on the boards from time to time. I paid right around $500 for mine and around another $150 for accessories.

Cost is at $3365

Tuner or chip- I like the SCT X-cal. For $420 you can’t get a better deal. Chips can tune as well but you are stuck with what is on the chips and if you change your tune needs they have to be sent off and reprogrammed. The chips run around $350.

Cost is at $3785 ($420 for tuner)

Other misc. stuff your going to need along the way like a Maf can be found for cheap as well used. I found my maf for free from a friend. Keep your eyes open for any thing you think you might need. If you can get a part for free and you might not use it you can always sell or trade it for something that you do need.

Autos may need additional help as well. The addition of a higher stall torque converter would help tons with the power and speed.

1998 V6- A few mods, kind of quick at12.9@106 on the quarter

I dont agree at all with alot you said.. NEVER buy used t-lok or gears.. they have different wear patterns so its useless and may cause more problems than you want..

get 3.73 gears or 4.10 and a t-lok (BIGGEST BANG FOR BUCK)

then get a handheld tuner.. (BIG BANG FOR BUCK

UD PULLEYS ARE ON THE TOP OF THE BANG FOR BUCK LIST they are a must if you want some cheap noticable power..

if your really just interested in some quick power ^ thats all the stuff that is cheap and will show you some power..

other bs mods that dont do much are like a cat-back and a CAI... they wont do much so i wouldnt bother unless you just feel like having the sound the only way youll notice alot from exhaust is if you upgrade to Longtube headers a O/R midpipe or highflow Catted midpipe and a cat-back which is pretty expensive in the end..

there is no way to spend 3000 on a sixer and get it into the 12s

Edit:

FOR LOOKS buy a mach 1 chin spoiler, gt foglight kit, a mach1 grill delete, some rims black or chrome, *GT side flares, and a GT back bumper with dual exhaust and 3inch tips*(i just like the look alot better it rolls smoother).. IMO will look perfect and not be as expensive as buying a body kit and repainting your car and all that jazz.. you can always put a sound system too which IMO i love music so its a very worth will mod plus people dig that when you can pull up and bump

__________________
I don't drive fast. I fly slow.
http://i16.tinypic.com/4355weg.jpg

February 5th, 2007, 12:48 AM	#10
Stang6899 Hardcore Enthusiast Modded V6 Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Mukilteo WA Posts: 1,124	Its almost impossible to get into the 12's spending 3k on a single port v6...you would have to buy a lot of really cheap used shit and be very patient on finding deals. __________________ 1999 v6 5spd- CAI, dual exhaust, spec stage 1 clutch, P&P heads and intakes, aluminum driveshaft, short shifter, 4.10 gears, auburn posi, SCT tuned 2001 SVT Cobra- SLP x-pipe, Borla Catback

February 5th, 2007, 12:52 AM

#11

Texan_Stud

Hardcore Enthusiast

Join Date: Jan 2007

Location: Saginaw, Texas

Posts: 1,385

Originally Posted by Stang6899

Its almost impossible to get into the 12's spending 3k on a single port v6...you would have to buy a lot of really cheap used shit and be very patient on finding deals.

+1 and even if you did youd have to replace it all soon.. its like me going and picking up a cobra motor for 1k that has 200,000+ miles on it lol it maybe cheap but itll still break here in a minute

__________________
I don't drive fast. I fly slow.
http://i16.tinypic.com/4355weg.jpg

February 5th, 2007, 02:14 AM	#12
punkafi888 Regular Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 294	hey man, i have a black 2001. i plan on getting the seleen body kit to. but at the moment i an putting u/d pullies, cai, true dual borla (h) pipe, 5"tach (i know i know but it was only 25 and its an autometer, and 2 airfuel autometer, with a and i am proud to say it tma turbo kit on my car. i would go with performance first. that way you can go to the track on tuner night and make big bux off the import's. just watch out for the newer looking civics, they have vtec in them and boy do they pull at top end. i won by a thousanth of a second it was close. it must have been the nx sticker lol chears __________________ http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/4979/42wotv6ok4.jpg

February 5th, 2007, 01:55 PM

#13

GreenFaleen

Resident MM Ricer

2006 Scion tC

13.9@103/8.9@81

Join Date: Nov 2006

Location: Raleigh/Lenoir, NC

Posts: 9,385

Originally Posted by Steamboat 16

Sweet car, heres what i would do proformance wise:

think if you are working on modding a car and working on a tight budget you must make a choice. You can go for appearance and the car will look great but still feel like your driving a Taurus or you can leave the appearance as is (which I don’t think they look bad at all) and focus on performance. With a small investment, less than the cost of putting a super charger on and hopefully get to the high 13’s or low 14’s I’ll tell you how to mod the car to run 12’s for around $3,000. Learn to do the work yourself. If you can’t and you’re not rich then modding a car might not be for you. Read books, jump in and do it and learn as you go, nothing is that hard that it can’t be learned through doing it. There are plenty of places to ask questions and get answers.

First off, go with the biggest bang for the buck mods, and a cold air intake is not one of them. All of the mods that I’m going to suggest are big bang for the buck mods.

First- UD pulleys- They are not a must but they do help. For the $80-90 you will spend on them new they are worth a couple of horse power. They are not a big gain item. Look for used gears, used just means cheaper.

Your cost is at $85

Exhaust- Not a real big gainer either unless you have bigger mods to support it. You don’t have to spend an arm and a leg on exhaust. You can go to a muffler shop and have them build you a dual set up cheaper than what any cat-back or after market company can offer after shipping. I paid $250 for my duals with flow masters. I wouldn’t pay much over that for an exhaust system.

Cost is at $335

T-loc- If you are pushing any power you want to be able to get traction. I’m using a used T-loc that has been rebuilt. I’ve had it in my car now for 5 years under some pretty good abuse and never had a problem. I paid $100 for mine; look for a deal on one I wouldn’t pay any more than $250 for one on a budget.

Gears- Make a choice 3.73’s or 4.10’s. See which ones will be right for you. Gears are something that personally I would not get used. I bought Richmond’s new and never had a problem with them for $165. I would not suggest installing your own gears and T-loc unless you really know what you doing so I factored in an average $300 installation fee.

Cost is at $1050 ($165 for gears), ($250 for T-loc), ($300 for installation)

K&N filter- I personally think that a K&N filter in the stock air intake tube is just as good as a CAI. That is just my opinion so I would spend the $25 for the filter and leave it at that.

Cost is at $1075

Cam- You will really notice a big difference in the car with a cam. I am using a 207 cam from RPM and really like it. All in all they are a little tricky to install but nothing that anyone who was taking their time and had a good over view of the procedure with a manual couldn’t do. I paid around $180 for my cam.

Heads- These will make the biggest difference in performance. They are pricy though too. Super Six sells a pretty good set for around $1000. I got mine from Gaston who P&P’s them (from V6power.com) for $500. I really like them and he did a fantastic job. While the heads are off this is the best time to do the cam, no worries about holding the valves up and just makes things simpler to do. I also think putting valve spring on heads is a lot easier when they are not on the car.

Valve springs- You will need to get a set of valve springs to go along with the cam and perhaps some push rods. I suggest the adjustable roller rockers and then you can keep you stock push rods. Expect to pay around $100 for a set of springs.

Gaskets- they are more expensive than you think. For upper and lower intake, head, water pump and front seal along with head bolts it cost me around $250. I got all Fel-pro stuff.

Cost is at $2355 ($750 for heads), ($180 for cam), ($100 for valve springs), ($250 for gaskets)

Roller rockers- They make a big difference over stock rockers and you can tell why when you look at them side by side. I suggest the adjustable rockers. They are around $255 for non adjustable and $360 for adjustable.

Cost is at $2715

Nitrous- nitrous is the biggest bang for the buck mod there is. With no other mod can you spend $500 and get 100 hp out of it. I like the Zex kits but NX is also a very good brand. You can save a lot of money getting a used kit. EBay is always full of them and they come up for sale on the boards from time to time. I paid right around $500 for mine and around another $150 for accessories.

Cost is at $3365

Tuner or chip- I like the SCT X-cal. For $420 you can’t get a better deal. Chips can tune as well but you are stuck with what is on the chips and if you change your tune needs they have to be sent off and reprogrammed. The chips run around $350.

Cost is at $3785 ($420 for tuner)

Other misc. stuff your going to need along the way like a Maf can be found for cheap as well used. I found my maf for free from a friend. Keep your eyes open for any thing you think you might need. If you can get a part for free and you might not use it you can always sell or trade it for something that you do need.

Autos may need additional help as well. The addition of a higher stall torque converter would help tons with the power and speed.

1998 V6- A few mods, kind of quick at12.9@106 on the quarter

fist off 3 grand in the 12's = blown engine and crappy work. Second none of your prices add up.

do true duals
435 with a set of tips (to fill in the cut outs on the saleen kit) and a crossover pipe it idles kinda ruff without it

cai 45 bucks off ebay

UD pullies 150 bucks

SCT tuner x-cal 2 400 bucks with tunes

t-lok and gears(GET NEW ONES) 750 tops including install

that will get you a good start if you want more power go for a power pak from supersixmotorsports.com and if you want more than that you can forge the internals and run a 11 psi procharger or a 14-15 pounds of boost turbo.

__________________

Scion Tc-strup racing header, CAI, Ground Kit, NOS 100shot, Custom suspension, Doc. I 50% STS

MM 4 Banger club: Senior Ricer

"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." -Carroll Shelby

Thanks To My Sponsors:
Strup Performance

February 5th, 2007, 06:50 PM	#14
itschristorres8 SP00LIN V6 2000 Mustang V6 unknown @390 Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: south florida Posts: 14,619	done get the saleen kit wiht bullit rims.. wiht a 1.5 inch drop you'll need c/cplates, shocks and struts __________________ 437rwhp and 402rwtq through a V6 on a stock bottom end

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