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Discussing Subs... Acceleration..Questions in the V6 Mustangs Forum. Alright first off, I been doing alot of shopping for my sound system.. I'm ...

       

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Old October 29th, 2009, 01:07 AM   #1
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Subs... Acceleration..Questions


Alright first off, I been doing alot of shopping for my sound system..
I'm working with a 1100W Memphis Bell Amp and a Clarion deck. Speaker wise, I already have a full MTX set that a friend gave to me. As for Subs, they were blown. So I been looking around for some decent ones at a reasonable price but can't seem to find any good in town. Looked online but I really don't understand some of it. Can anyone tell me the difference of what the RMS from the Max power means? And possibly direct me to a site with good prices for any good subs?

Acceleration..
My car makes this ticking sound.. its not noticable to much. But when im at a idle especially.. its like baby whistling. When I press down on the clutch, the noise stops some what. Also when Im driving, the lower gear im in.. the less I hear it.. Any ideas what that could be and if its a bad sign?

Headlights..
My headlights have become pretty like.. worn out I guess is the word.. The bulbs been replaced but the glass/plastic(w/e) is like all fogged up.. I was told to fix it, it had to be melted so its clear again.. but that don't sound right.. So.. any ideas for that? Or I better off getting new lights?..

XD Um.. thats all for now. Thanks for the help
 

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Old October 29th, 2009, 01:21 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Google
RMS is an abbreviation that stands for "Root Mean Squared," and is a formula that is used to calculate an approximate average for the power an amplifier can continuously create. When used in reference to speakers or mostly for a speaker's max wattage in general, the term is used to signify the square root of the max wattage. For example: The speaker has 800 watts max, 400 watts RMS.
Copied paste stright off of google search as I couldn't think of a way to put it. RMS would be what the output is on average and peak power what it tops out at in a nut shell.


As for the ticking/whining problem it sounds like its your throw out bearing.

And the lights can easily be fixed with a restoration kit. Basically buffing a compound onto the plastic that restores it to good as new. Plenty of threads on here and on other forums that give step by step instructions. It's pretty easy though and you should not waste your money on new ones.
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you make it through the wall.

Last edited by Redux : October 29th, 2009 at 01:24 AM.
 
Old October 29th, 2009, 04:09 AM   #3
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For your speaker system you ALWAYS look at RMS and not peak...

If you ever notice shitty amps never have RMS ratings just peak rating... So that's why you get idiots with 5400 watt boss amps running there mouth until a system running off a true 500 watt rms comes and shuts them down.

Ticking could be TOB

And the head lights, if you can't de-glaze them new ones ftw!
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Old October 29th, 2009, 06:57 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Johnathon View Post
Alright first off, I been doing alot of shopping for my sound system..
I'm working with a 1100W Memphis Bell Amp and a Clarion deck. Speaker wise, I already have a full MTX set that a friend gave to me. As for Subs, they were blown. So I been looking around for some decent ones at a reasonable price but can't seem to find any good in town. Looked online but I really don't understand some of it. Can anyone tell me the difference of what the RMS from the Max power means? And possibly direct me to a site with good prices for any good subs?

Acceleration..
My car makes this ticking sound.. its not noticable to much. But when im at a idle especially.. its like baby whistling. When I press down on the clutch, the noise stops some what. Also when Im driving, the lower gear im in.. the less I hear it.. Any ideas what that could be and if its a bad sign?

Headlights..
My headlights have become pretty like.. worn out I guess is the word.. The bulbs been replaced but the glass/plastic(w/e) is like all fogged up.. I was told to fix it, it had to be melted so its clear again.. but that don't sound right.. So.. any ideas for that? Or I better off getting new lights?..

XD Um.. thats all for now. Thanks for the help
Yea with the headlights i suggest just go and get some new ones! SMoked out headlights are awesome with some HID bulbs!

I'd have to agree with every1 about the Throw out bearing too!
 
Old October 29th, 2009, 06:59 AM   #5
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Oh yea here's a link!


 
Old October 29th, 2009, 08:40 AM   #6
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if you don't want the $20 kit from autozone (you need a drill) to do your lights, wal mart will do it for $20.

TOB is throw out bearing.
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Old October 29th, 2009, 12:25 PM   #7
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Get a buffer and compound and sand your headlights with maybe 1000 grit? then buff it all out. It looks great when your done
 
Old October 29th, 2009, 08:04 PM   #8
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Thanks alot for that. That made things alot easier seeing how this is what I was looking for to begin with.

As for the TOB, is it something complicated to fix... or something i'd be able to do on my own?
 
Old October 29th, 2009, 08:23 PM   #9
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I will also add that even a crappy sub in an excellent (WELL SEALED sealed enclosure, WELL TUNED ported enclosure, etc.) will make ALL the difference in its sound reproduction. I've put great subs in a crappy box and gotten poor performance, and put cheap-o subs from an audio expo (think they were Ultimate Audio) in a great ported box and sounded awesome. Sealed boxes make better control for power handling and tight bass, but ported boxes tuned correctly will peak where you need them to. As far as learning the terminology/understanding, check out the12volt.com for electrical and beginner understanding of subs can be left to crutchfield.com; it's all free info to get you started. Pairing a box with the right volume for the subwoofer chosen can make a huge difference in performance...matching an amp for your application (i.e. not going for big wattage but for cleaner output and constant power handling--RMS--with the least harmonic distortion) makes it better. Good luck, man, and make it a clean install!
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Old October 29th, 2009, 08:28 PM   #10
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I have these lights and i love them, but i warn you they are pretty dim at night. Also, make sure you seal the properly or they will probably condensate.
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Old October 29th, 2009, 10:07 PM   #11
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Even with a HID headlight would they be dim? My current lights are stock and are dim anyways so that wouldn't bother me And you did your own install or professional?
 
Old October 29th, 2009, 10:11 PM   #12
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with HIDs they would probably be fine. and I installed them myself.
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Old October 29th, 2009, 10:13 PM   #13
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Its very easy, just do it your self. The hardest part is aligning them. I never did mine but they still flood the road, I just get high beamed all the time.
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Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you make it through the wall.
 
Old October 29th, 2009, 10:44 PM   #14
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hey before you buy new headlights check out this article on how to clear them What can I do to prevent moisture from getting into my headlights on my mustang (years 83-2004)? « Tooldesk Automotive Tool Blog. The article also gives some good info on aligning your headlights.

And if you are looking at replacing your throw out bearing that ain't to difficult here is an article on how to My clutch is worn out, can I replace it at home? « Tooldesk Automotive Tool Blog
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