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Old November 27th, 2009, 09:57 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by 9986paulk View Post
Any ideas?
Check for shaft play on the pulley shaft...inspect impellar for chips,dings or bends. Check overall condition really. For 600 bucks thats a steal. Do it.
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Old November 28th, 2009, 12:53 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Codeman View Post
that is for just the blower. If you go with rpmoutlet the upgrade to the d1sc in the kit is like 375 not 1300. But if you buy the d1sc just the head unit it costs 1300ish. that is only the blower no intercooler, tubing, pulleys anything that is what i was getting at.

and that does look like a great deal!
Originally Posted by JTs03v6 View Post
You are mislead. The kit originally comes with a p1sc...to upgrade to the d1sc costed me 250 through thr...ONLY WHEN YOU BUY THE KIT NEW. To upgrade down the road From a p1sc to a d1sc will cost you over 1300. If the kit doesnt need to be rebuilt. If it has to be rebuilt plan on spending 2000 for the upgrade and rebuild.
The d1 costs over 3000 for the head unit only BRAND NEW.
Go ahead and ask me how I know this

Edit...never buy the kit from rpm mustangs.
JT is correct.

D1-sc will run $2500+ for the head unit alone brand new. If you buy a p1-sc kit new you can choose to upgrade for a small fee. and will be the best money ever spent. I am currently spending around 2k for my rebuild. were as procharger basically told me to buy a new d1 for 2500 from them cause it would be 2k+ for d1 rebuild since most of my parts were not re-usable.
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Old December 27th, 2009, 08:53 PM   #23
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OK so can you guys help me with a decision...I'm trying to decide what size piping to use for my supercharger intercooler piping. I was thinking 2.5" because the diameter of the supercharger outlet is just slightly under 2.5". I've just seen most people go with 3" and never really got an answer what the benefit is. And I finally got my bearings on the shafts of my supercharger. Jut waiting for the high speed seal to come now. I'll put the rebuild pics up once I get that seal. It all went smooth and everything was really straightforward. The trick to it being easy is using the oven and the freezer.
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Old February 24th, 2010, 09:49 PM   #24
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OK well just for everybody that's only here on this site most of the time, here's what I've got done so far and what I need to get done.
-Whole engine (almost) assembled with the new cam (212/218 .545 110 LSA)
The problem is the damn fuel injector connectors...I realized the little clips are broken on 5 of them, wtf.
-Intercooler mounted
-Deciding on going turbo or supercharging now, if I can get a buyer for the supercharger. From there, if I got turbo, I'll put the A/C back on and work around it or if I can't sell I'll just get the supercharger on.
-Then I just have to get a MAF, LC1 Wideband, and tune.
So this means I'm still around $500 out.
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Old February 24th, 2010, 11:03 PM   #25
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Your almost there with the blower...imo you should get that thing on there and get it tuned. Your on the right track with your car. I think you will like it.
Havent seen that cam on any other v6 and I dont know what range it will put you in. Ex...My cam's range is 2200-6000rpm...excellent for a centri. Another reason I HAD to put in a stall.
None the less...it will be better than stock cam. I dont think it is going to maximize the blower (or a turbo for thay matter) with 110*. Should be in the 112-114* range.

Who grinded the cam?? And what trans you running??
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Old February 24th, 2010, 11:07 PM   #26
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I would say keep the supercharger instant boost. sure that you can make a little more power on the turbo, but i like having the instant boost of a supercharger. Just my opinion sounds like a sweet budget build. congrats.
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Old February 24th, 2010, 11:15 PM   #27
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I have the stock auto, 4r70w. I already have a B&M cooler for it.
And if I remember correctly, the cams range is 1500 to 5800 (which is where my car shifts even when the shift points and redline are set at 6000).
It's a new comp cam. I just wanted one to put in that was better than stock and would sound good (one reason to stick supercharger IMO) for cheap ($215 new) since I already had the engine apart. It's more of a low end torque cam (so moves torque lower and increases peak torque), but I figured it might be a good idea since I wouldn't have much boost til around 3k, and by that point and up I'll have more and more boost which should more than make up for the little bit tighter LSA even though it limits top end a little bit. It'll be exciting to see how it works out if I stick with it.

It'll be around $2200 when I'm done, but that doesn't seem bad to me for a cam, supercharger, intercooler, and supporting mods.
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Old February 24th, 2010, 11:19 PM   #28
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Stock cam will come on lower than that...1200 I believe.
I would look into a tq converter that matches that cam profile. A 2500-2800 would be perfect for you imo.

What rearend gear ratio??

You definitlly have a true budget build. Wish I could have found deals like that when I was boosting my car.
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Old February 24th, 2010, 11:22 PM   #29
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3.73. Maybe it lowers the peak torque then, not positive...but I know comp said tighter LSA increased compression lowered torque in rpms and increased peak torque, but slightly limited top end. Oh and if I stay at this power level I'm considering a manual swap in the future just for the fun factor. I still like driving my old 5 spd 1990 truck casue it's a stick haha. And by the way, have you run your car in the 1/4 yet with the new cam?

I think I remember seeing that the stock cam specs were 116 LSA .45 lift and something like 178/180something not positive on durations though
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Old February 24th, 2010, 11:28 PM   #30
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You need to post up some video and pics asap when you get done. I am excited to see this. I am hoping to turn my car into a budget street strip car. And thanks to this forums classified section I am saving a bunch of money.
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Old February 24th, 2010, 11:34 PM   #31
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Never had this car on a 1/4 track or havent run the new cam setup at any track.
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Old February 24th, 2010, 11:38 PM   #32
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Oh I'm dying to get this thing running...and for that matter, just some warm weather to make me and the car happy. I'll for sure get some clips up of just the exhaust at least within 2 weeks. And by the way...just starting it wouldn't hurt anything, right? I mean I can change the injectors size in the tune, but it would basically be like just running with the cam at idle. And then the MAF.
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Old February 24th, 2010, 11:38 PM   #33
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JT, what tires were you running in the video that you posted on here of your 1/8th? They seemed to hook pretty well, and I think that they were the stock rims, correct me if I am wrong, and I am running the stock 16 by 8 inch rims and looking to do some dragging.



EDIT: As far as starting it, If you are just running the cam, idk, i will wait for someone who knows more.
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Old February 24th, 2010, 11:50 PM   #34
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nitto 555r. 255/50/16's.
I didnt care much for them honestlly. Maybe If I had some 50/50 shocks on the rear they probablly would have done better and not hop so bad.

I dont think your going to hurt anything by starting it up and let it idle. Might run like crap but the pcm may adjust a little. If your not tuned for bigger injectors and the maf transfer function isnt tuned correctlly, it may not start up.
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Old February 25th, 2010, 05:55 PM   #35
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And do you know what I need to change around, vacuum line wise? Do I need to change the PCVs to breathers or can I still run them to the manifold? Same with like the evap line.
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Old February 25th, 2010, 09:56 PM   #36
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thanks JT, and sorry i will stop jacking your thread. i wish you good luck with your build.
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Old February 25th, 2010, 09:59 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by 9986paulk View Post
Oh I'm dying to get this thing running...and for that matter, just some warm weather to make me and the car happy. I'll for sure get some clips up of just the exhaust at least within 2 weeks. And by the way...just starting it wouldn't hurt anything, right? I mean I can change the injectors size in the tune, but it would basically be like just running with the cam at idle. And then the MAF.
It may or may not start up but starting it and idling it shouldn't hurt anything. Just don't go past that.
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Old February 25th, 2010, 10:05 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by 9986paulk View Post
And do you know what I need to change around, vacuum line wise? Do I need to change the PCVs to breathers or can I still run them to the manifold? Same with like the evap line.
You can but dont have to. My pcv is setup with a breather on the pass side and the drv side is hooked preblower with an inline filter. You will have change the pcv...if you keep the pvc hooked to the intake it will create positive pressure in the crank case while in boost....BIG no no!!

You can also put two filters on both sides and be done.
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Old February 25th, 2010, 10:14 PM   #39
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OK, I was almost sure about the PCVs, but not about anything else...Like them evap line-Could I just run breathers on both valve covers then run the evap line pre-blower? I just think that would be a small boost leak.
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Old February 25th, 2010, 10:17 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Codeman View Post
JT, what tires were you running in the video that you posted on here of your 1/8th? They seemed to hook pretty well, and I think that they were the stock rims, correct me if I am wrong, and I am running the stock 16 by 8 inch rims and looking to do some dragging.



EDIT: As far as starting it, If you are just running the cam, idk, i will wait for someone who knows more.
It's no problem man, it doesn't matter to me what you post in here, as long as its somewhat related (like everything always is) lol
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