[mcqueen]

A while back there was a post in the 94-98 section about drilled + slotted rotors on ebay (from a company) for a damn good price. I put them on my watch list and eventually they had a sale. $116 shipped for front + rear drilled + slotted rotors. I grabbed them up and they just arrived yesterday. I think I'm going to wait until spring to install them so they don't rust quite as fast but I'm hoping to get all the info I can before then.



Now I have a few questions since I was reading my Hayne's manual about the install and I think the 99-04 is a little different.

1. How exactly do I get the calipers off? Do I use a c-clamp to compress the calipers, slide them off, unbolt the thing holding the brake pads, take that off, then remove the rotors?

2. I figure this would be a great time to change the brake pads, but do I need to bleed the brakes to change the pads? If so, how do I go about bleeding them?

3. What do you guys recommend for brake pads? What kind of material is going to be best?

4. I read somewhere I should clean the rotors before I install them because of the oils put on so they don't rust during shipping. Should I simply use brake cleaner to clean them?

[joshridge]

idk anything about the questions you asked but those look bad ass jsyk.

[HMUSN]

1. How exactly do I get the calipers off? Do I use a c-clamp to compress the calipers, slide them off, unbolt the thing holding the brake pads, take that off, then remove the rotors?
To get the calipers off you remove the banjo bolts and that will get them off. You will also need to remove the caliper bracket bolts if you want to install those rotors. You can use a c clamp to compress the front pistons, but using a $15.00 brake tool is easier.

2. I figure this would be a great time to change the brake pads, but do I need to bleed the brakes to change the pads? If so, how do I go about bleeding them?
No you do not. At long as you don't get air in the lines you are good. Here is some info on bleeding brakes. http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/brakebleed.html.

3. What do you guys recommend for brake pads? What kind of material is going to be best?
I like semi ceramic pads honestly. I would go with a half decent pad, but it is usually personal choice.
4. I read somewhere I should clean the rotors before I install them because of the oils put on so they don't rust during shipping. Should I simply use brake cleaner to clean them?[/quote]
Yes, and yes brake cleaner will work just fine.

[01KnightRiderGT]

1-You will have to remove the caliper which have two small long bolts on each end, then to remove the rotor you have to remove the caliper bracket which is held by two large bolts, now the rotor will slide out very easy,

2-If your pads are still beefy I wouldn’t change them, unless you get some performance pads, if you do decide to change the pads you will need the c-clamp to compress the piston back in. You do not need to bleed your brakes.

3-I would get some semi-metallic pads from Hawk.

4-Yes all you do is spray some brake cleaner.

It’s an easy job.

Good luck

[01KnightRiderGT]

Originally Posted by HMUSN 1. How exactly do I get the calipers off? Do I use a c-clamp to compress the calipers, slide them off, unbolt the thing holding the brake pads, take that off, then remove the rotors? To get the calipers off you remove the banjo bolts and that will get them off. You will also need to remove the caliper bracket bolts if you want to install those rotors. You can use a c clamp to compress the front pistons, but using a $15.00 brake tool is easier. 2. I figure this would be a great time to change the brake pads, but do I need to bleed the brakes to change the pads? If so, how do I go about bleeding them? No you do not. At long as you don't get air in the lines you are good. Here is some info on bleeding brakes. http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/brakebleed.html. 3. What do you guys recommend for brake pads? What kind of material is going to be best? I like semi ceramic pads honestly. I would go with a half decent pad, but it is usually personal choice. 4. I read somewhere I should clean the rotors before I install them because of the oils put on so they don't rust during shipping. Should I simply use brake cleaner to clean them?

Yes, and yes brake cleaner will work just fine.
[/QUOTE]

You beat me by one minute. lol

[HMUSN]

oh and on the back pads you cannot use a c-clamp to compress them. You need to buy a different brake tool for that as the rear pistons turn and depress while the fronts just depress.

[Codeman]

well said, you both beat me, i actually had a link set up until i read ur guys posts.

The back pads really should be fine however. The back brakes on our cars probably maybe give 15-20% at most braking, if that.

The front ones are the ones that I would be most concerned with, unless your back ones are pretty wore.


EDIT: AND AS FAR AS THE BACK PADS GO. I WOULD JUST TAKE THE BRACKET OFF SO I CAN PULL THE CALIPER OFF. THEN LOOK AT THE PADS TO MAKE SURE THEY ARE NOT WORN OUT, AND THEN JUST SLIDE THE NEW ROTOR ON AND SLIDE THE CALIPER BACK ON. IT SHOULD SLIDE BACK ON BECAUSE AS LONG AS YOU DONT PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL THE PISTONS WONT MOVE. If you cant get them on because your new rotors are thicker and you do not want to buy the tool, you can take the old pad off, use your hand with a rag and get a helper. Have your helper crack the bleeder screw, MAKE SURE THE MASTER CYLINDER IS FULL FIRST, and then you should be able to push in and turn the piston in with the screw cracked. Then have them close the screw. Make sure not to let the piston pop out when you do this or you will suck in air. Then once you get one side on the car, check the master cylinder, fill it full and do the other. Then when you are all done you can top or your mastercylinder and ur back ones are done.

[mcqueen]

Thanks for all your help guys! I got another question. I'm assuming I can't set the parking brake, so how do I go about keeping the car in place when I jack it up? Would just blocking the tires keep the car from going anywhere without the brake set?


And Codeman, you're saying take the bracket and caliper off at the same time? Would this work for the front calipers as well? I bought the car 4 or 5 months ago and I'm not sure when the brake pads were changed before I bought it so if they're still good, I'd like to avoid doing more work than necessary lol

[goren813]

You can have the parking brake set.

You have to remove the caliper bracket to get to the rotors, so yes, remove it. 2 bolts. Caliper will come off without removing the bracket, use some force and it'll give, it will just be seated pretty good on the pads. Before re-install is when you have to get the pistons back in. I use a c-clamp for the fronts, modified universal brake piston tool on the rears.

*What company did you buy them off of?

[mcqueen]

I got them from these guys: eBay My World - brakemasters
They normally have them for $130 shipped but when they had a little "sale" I figured I'd pick them up then. I couldn't pass up 4 drilled and slotted rotors, shipped to my door for $116
94-04 Ford Mustang Rotors F+R drilled/slotted FREE S&H : eBay Motors (item 330394973890 end time Jan-23-10 02:03:00 PST)

[goren813]

Nice, just wondered if they were the same as mine, I bought from R1Concepts.

[Codeman]

Just make sure that when you have the back calipers off that you do not press the brakes or this will push the pistons out.

[24KStang]

How did those ebay rotors work for you, I am getting ready to purchase some just wanted to know some reviews on them...Thanks..

[mcqueen]

I haven't put them on yet. It's been too cold to get out and do any work on the car. There's a thread about them in the 94-98 section though (it's a bit old).

[southfour!]

Do you still have the eBay link? I want these !!!!

Edit. Sorry I read this on my iPhone and didn't notice the link above

[southfour!]

Do they look like there good quality? What were people saying in the other thread? Im always cautious about buying essential parts like rotors off eBay unless they are OEM. I talked to the guy today and its $55 shipping to Canada but still a good deal. And its buy it now or best offer so im going to offer $100 and see what happens when i get paid on friday, provided you guys say good things about them.

[mcqueen]

Nobody in the other thread seemed to have a problem with them. The quality looks good to me (although they suck at packaging the products for shipping). The real test will be once they're on the car. Actually the real test will be me trying to put them on the car The rear calipers sound like a bitch, but I think I can tackle the front ones alright

[99 BLUE V6]

Originally Posted by mcqueen Nobody in the other thread seemed to have a problem with them. The quality looks good to me (although they suck at packaging the products for shipping). The real test will be once they're on the car. Actually the real test will be me trying to put them on the car The rear calipers sound like a bitch, but I think I can tackle the front ones alright

i bought some rears like that from e-bay drilled/slotted. when i step on brakes i get funny sound. like putting cards in bicycle spokes. LOL you might have to be my age to remember that. is there a left or right stamped on thoses rotors? my fronts are stamped. what i'm getting at does it make a difference witch way slots go?

[mcqueen]

Originally Posted by 99 BLUE V6 i bought some rears like that from e-bay drilled/slotted. when i step on brakes i get funny sound. like putting cards in bicycle spokes. LOL you might have to be my age to remember that. is there a left or right stamped on thoses rotors? my fronts are stamped. what i'm getting at does it make a difference witch way slots go?

Haha nah man I remember putting cars in the spokes but we also used to smash pop cans and wedge them on the tires so they made a whirring kind of noise when we rode around. My rotors aren't stamped L/R or front/rear. I think you want the slots so that they go in what would feel like it's going forward.
Like this pic (which the car is facing left)


So in my first pic the rotors on the right would be the driver's side set and the ones on the left would be the passenger's side set.

[goren813]

Not necessarily. The direction is not determined by the outside veins, but rather by the inner veins. You may be able to see them if looking at the outter edge of the rotors, but I would contact the manufacturer to be sure. Some rotors are mounted with the outter veins appearing to be facing the wrong direction. Some other companies produce straight veined, which you can actually mount either way (supposedly).