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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: California
Posts: 35
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Broken Exhaust, or More?
Hey guys, I have a 2000 Mustang 5-speed. I posted awhile ago mentioning a kind of "wheel of fortune" sound while accelerating. I need some opinions on this problem, as it seems much worse now.
I was cruising around tonight for awhile, just checking out the country side. After about 30 minutes, I stopped to think about where to go next. When I started to go again, I heard a kind of metallic sound, but I figured I had just run over something. I accelerated to speed, then noticed when I took my foot off the gas, it made a loud "POP" sound. Almost as if the car wanted to die. I got to a stop, then began to accelerate again. The sound was god awful. It's as if the leak turned into a huge hole in the exhaust or something. The interior vents were letting in loads of exhaust smell too. I revved the engine while looking under the hood, and the sound does seem to be from the passenger side. I can feel AND smell a good amount of exhaust gases coming out specifically on the passenger side when it revs. I'm about 90% sure it's the same exhaust leak that's so famous with my model Mustang, but I wanted to see if there are any other opinions on it? Thanks for any and all replies on my problem. I'll be checking and asking more questions later through the night. As for now, it's off to dinner in my mom's station wagon. Yippee >_> |
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#2 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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It sounds like an exhaust leak but i would have to hear it to be totally sure
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#3 |
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Moderator
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check your P/S manifold. they are known to crack as mine on my 99 did. It cracked right at the collector.
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#4 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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I forgot about that /\ It happened to my uncle
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Co-Owner Hooker Trade industryFX4 CREW Crew Member #4 Say Bye to McMustang5.0 http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...mcmustang.html |
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#5 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: California
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What and where would the "p/s manifold" be?
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#6 |
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Regular
Join Date: Feb 2009
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P/S Manifold would be known as Passenger side Manifold....Or header if you want to call it that. He is meaning check right at the base where the flange is that bolts to the rest of the exhaust...Looks like a oval Flange normally the crack right around the flange or above it. At least I know this is where mine cracked at.
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#7 |
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Dancing Naked In The Rain
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ozark, MO
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#8 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: California
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Alright I'll be giving the headers a thorough checking tomorrow.
If the headers need replacing, could I just use something like this: |
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#9 |
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Dancing Naked In The Rain
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Yes you can use that. Typically you should probably go with brand name parts, but sometimes it doesn't hurt to go a little cheaper. Especially if you're just in need of a quick fix and plan on replacing it with something better later on.
If you don't want to replace the header you could also have the crack welded. It'll be a temporary fix from what I've told, but again if you plan on upgrading later then you'll be ok. |
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#10 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: California
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Ah, that's great to hear. I was checking out other kits for headers, and I really don't want to spend $300+ at the moment. I just have a few more questions:
Is it okay to get only one header at a time, or is it better to get a pair? And is there anything I can do to prevent the new headers from cracking? |
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#11 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2009
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Okay I checked out the exhaust today. It was raining outside, so I didn't have the best light, but I didn't see a crack. Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong area though. I have a link here to show what I noticed: http://tinyurl.com/yls5bg3
The smaller circle shows a tube or something that seemed to have fluid in it. I'm fairly sure it should be connected somewhere, but I could be wrong. The bigger circle is where the exhaust seems to be shaking whenever I rev the engine. So, do you think it just needs tightening up, or is it something more? |
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#12 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
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It looks like one of the nuts on the exhaust flange is missing.
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#13 |
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Newbie
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I'll have to double check that when it's light out again. Do you think tightening it all down could potentially eliminate the noise?
Also, I read something about a tube in that area for "air injection" in California cars...could that be what the tube in the smaller circle is for? |
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#14 |
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Dancing Naked In The Rain
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If one of the nuts is missing, replace that and tighten it up. Hopefully that's all it is and it'll be an easy fix. If the noise is still there, I wouldn't rule out a cracked header just yet. From what I've been told, you can't always see a crack clearly but I've heard something about putting a soap + water solution on the header while the car is running and bubbles will show up anywhere that exhaust fumes are escaping. I actually think that was recommended for a mid-pipe but I assume it would work exactly the same on the headers. Don't forget to check the under sides of the headers as well.
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#15 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2009
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Yeah I'm gonna check under the car tomorrow. I read through a topic about the soap and water trick, I think it might be okay as long as the headers aren't hot. I might have to try that tomorrow too.
Anyone have information for me about that tube though? It's just gonna bug the hell out of me until I know what it's for :/ |
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#16 |
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Dancing Naked In The Rain
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Just try the soap and water method when the car is cold and you should have a good 5 - 10 minutes before the headers start getting hot. As far as the tube, I'm not entirely sure. I think you should have a tube for the EGR running from your exhaust and I suppose if you have another tube it may be the air injection. I've never really dealt with cars from California and never plan to. I mean they have some nice cars out there but I don't want to have to rip out all the shit they put in there for emissions.
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#17 |
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Moderator
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I think I see the crack. If you look at that area where the collector bracket is you will notice that it is a burnt black sort of color. that is the exact spot where mine cracked at. I used to soap method just wait until the car is cold, spray alot on there, have someone start the car, and watch the bubbles. Its not going to be an obvious crack as, like I said, mine cracked right were that collector bracket and the manifold meet.
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#18 |
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Moderator
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also, IIRC, there is no nut up top as the bolt threads through that top bracket then the bottom bracket uses a nut to compress the two together.
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