[Scumlabs]

- When I start my car, every once in a while, it will just turn over and over and over, until after about 15 seconds it will eventually fire. After it finally fires, when I turn off my car and attempt to turn it back on, it fires right up.

- It consistently fires up slower than other Mustangs

- RPM dips multiple times at a stoplight (rarely). Can hear a faint knocking sound

- Clicking sound after car fires

- Occasional misfire



I'm hoping that all these problems are the result of one thing... but they've been bugging me for a while. Any ideas?

[clidefr0g]

is ur car tuned to use 91 or 93 octane? sounds like ur running shitty gas. at least thats one option. maybe use better gas and put in some injector cleaner and gas treatment. see if that can clear out some gunk.

perhaps your plugs/wires need replacing or a coilpack

[mcqueen]

- When I start my car, every once in a while, it will just turn over and over and over, until after about 15 seconds it will eventually fire. After it finally fires, when I turn off my car and attempt to turn it back on, it fires right up.

Check your battery and starter.

- It consistently fires up slower than other Mustangs

I'd probably blame this one on the battery. With my old battery, my car started up slower than with the new one. Especially in the winter, it would sometimes crank a few times before it fired.

- RPM dips multiple times at a stoplight (rarely). Can hear a faint knocking sound

Remove your IAC and clean with with carb/TB cleaner. You might have to do this multiple times. If it doesn't clear up the problem, clean the MAF with MAF cleaner or electric contact cleaner and clean the throttle body (take it off and clean both sides) with TB cleaner. If it keeps doing it, replace the IAC as it might have gone bad (common issue with our cars).

- Clicking sound after car fires

Does it sound like a small piece of metal is rattling and it's gone after a second or two? I so, I don't think it's anything to worry about. My car does that on cold mornings.

Or is it more of a constant clicking? Like the only reason you stop hearing it is because of the engine noise/exhaust? If so, it might be an exhaust leak. Check both exhaust manifolds. They're known for cracking, especially the passenger side.

- Occasional misfire

Change your plugs/wires and check the coil pack. If you changed your plugs recently, pull them all out and make sure the gap is .052"-.054"

[Mr. Red Pony]

My car was doing that .... before I blew spun a rod bearing.

Btw I drained the oil out of the old engine (finally got around to putting it on a stand and start to tear it down) and the drain plug had a huge glob of metal shavings and a few finger-nail-clipping sized pieces of metal came out.

But ya. I had a few of those symptomes.

[mcqueen]

Originally Posted by clidefr0g is ur car tuned to use 91 or 93 octane? sounds like ur running shitty gas. at least thats one option. maybe use better gas and put in some injector cleaner and gas treatment. see if that can clear out some gunk.

This could also be an issue, especially with the ticking (could be detonation, but we'll assume it's not for now). Cheap gas is shitty gas. From my experience, paying a little more for a good brand name gas (Shell, Exxon, BP, Sinclair, etc) makes a big difference in a car. I could burn through a tank of shitty Wal-Mart gas in 2-3 days but a tank of Shell gas usually lasts me about a week if I'm not getting on the gas every chance I get (I usually do though ).

If you're not tuned for 91-93, try filling up with the higher octane fuel (just one tank, shouldn't need to keep doing it). If you're tuned for 91-93, DO NOT run a lower octane. That will cause a nice ticking/rattling noise and if you keep doing it you can say goodbye to your engine.

[Mr. Red Pony]

McQueen has a a good explaination on it though. I doubt you will blow your engine.

[mcqueen]

Originally Posted by Mr. Red Pony McQueen has a a good explaination on it though. I doubt you will blow your engine.

Which part won't blow your engine? I doubt any of his problems will lead to a blown engine at the moment.

[Mr. Red Pony]

Originally Posted by mcqueen Which part won't blow your engine? I doubt any of his problems will lead to a blown engine at the moment.

never said it would blow his engine. Jsut saying that i had similar problems prior to my blown engine.

[mcqueen]

Originally Posted by Mr. Red Pony never said it would blow his engine. Jsut saying that i had similar problems prior to my blown engine.

Oh alright I gotcha

[Scumlabs]

Originally Posted by mcqueen - When I start my car, every once in a while, it will just turn over and over and over, until after about 15 seconds it will eventually fire. After it finally fires, when I turn off my car and attempt to turn it back on, it fires right up. Check your battery and starter. - It consistently fires up slower than other Mustangs I'd probably blame this one on the battery. With my old battery, my car started up slower than with the new one. Especially in the winter, it would sometimes crank a few times before it fired. - RPM dips multiple times at a stoplight (rarely). Can hear a faint knocking sound Remove your IAC and clean with with carb/TB cleaner. You might have to do this multiple times. If it doesn't clear up the problem, clean the MAF with MAF cleaner or electric contact cleaner and clean the throttle body (take it off and clean both sides) with TB cleaner. If it keeps doing it, replace the IAC as it might have gone bad (common issue with our cars). - Clicking sound after car fires Does it sound like a small piece of metal is rattling and it's gone after a second or two? I so, I don't think it's anything to worry about. My car does that on cold mornings. Or is it more of a constant clicking? Like the only reason you stop hearing it is because of the engine noise/exhaust? If so, it might be an exhaust leak. Check both exhaust manifolds. They're known for cracking, especially the passenger side. - Occasional misfire Change your plugs/wires and check the coil pack. If you changed your plugs recently, pull them all out and make sure the gap is .052"-.054"

Thanks for all the input.

Its worth mentioning my spark plugs and starter were replaced during the past 6 months. Also, I cleaned my IAC recently, and had my battery checked @ autozone and they said it was practically brand new and holds a good charge. I also had my fuel filter replaced, and I fill up at Mobil 1.

I tried filling up with a higher octane at one point, but didn't spot any difference. Should I have my IAC checked out? Would that have anything to do with the hard starting?

Also, my acceleration doesn't seem as strong as it usually is, is it feasible that my IAC going bad could be responsible for that?

[clidefr0g]

if ur acceleration is hurting im still gonna bank on gunk and or coilpacks/wires

[mcqueen]

I'm going to have to agree with clide, wires and coil pack seems like a logical explanation. The IAC should mostly effect your car when it's idling (which is why you see the RPMs drop or spike when you're not touching the accelerator and have the car in neutral/clutch in).

[Scumlabs]

I believe my car still has it's stock spark plug wires (it has 70k miles on it), but has new plugs. Is it hypothetical that this can be causing the acceleration problems, misfiring, rpm dips, etc?

Also, I had some problems when I tried to tune my car at one point (detonation) that I just couldn't solve.. could the wires have been the culprit for that too?

Im thinking of getting them checked out! O.o

[mcqueen]

Originally Posted by Scumlabs I believe my car still has it's stock spark plug wires (it has 70k miles on it), but has new plugs. Is it hypothetical that this can be causing the acceleration problems, misfiring, rpm dips, etc? Also, I had some problems when I tried to tune my car at one point (detonation) that I just couldn't solve.. could the wires have been the culprit for that too? Im thinking of getting them checked out! O.o

I think bad wires (or possibly coil pack) could be causing all the problems I bolded. New wires are ~$30-$40 and you can easily change them yourself.

The RPM dips are more than likely caused by the IAC (I'd be willing to put money on it being the problem).

When you were having troubles with the detonation, did you try retarding the timing? If you run your timing too advanced, you'll end up with detonation even if you're running 93 octane fuel. I kind of doubt the wires were the problem with the detonation.

[Imran]

off topic, but isn't scumlabs from that game Rampage?

[mcqueen]

Originally Posted by Jakashh off topic, but isn't scumlabs from that game Rampage?

That was an awesome game and I think it was. I wonder if I still have that game laying around somewhere

[Imran]

Originally Posted by mcqueen That was an awesome game and I think it was. I wonder if I still have that game laying around somewhere

i have it on my PS3 my friend let me download it off his account for free

[Scumlabs]

Originally Posted by Jakashh off topic, but isn't scumlabs from that game Rampage?

Glad you caught that yep, it is. And it's my website

[clidefr0g]

i duno about EASILY changing the wires your self.. but it can be done.. damn they are a pain in the ass though.

[ESG-642T]

Originally Posted by clidefr0g i duno about EASILY changing the wires your self.. but it can be done.. damn they are a pain in the ass though.

Spark plug wires? Its a Less than 10min job...

OP dare I ask what kind of plugs are you running?...