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#1 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 2,933
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Supercharger Questions
Ok, I am starting to try to gather some information on supercharging.
Ok, I have read through various stickys and learned a lot, but they have still left some blanks for me. Ok I have a bunch of questions about supercharging and I will number them. 1. How well do the superchargers work in the winter? I live in a place where the weather gets to -20 if not colder. 2. How does the oil lines from the oil pan work? I know how the line works, but I mean if you use oil from your oil pan in your supercharger, won't that lower the level of oil in your oil pan? Do you have to add more oil? OR get a bigger capacity pan. I have not heard anything on this, but I know that once you get to higher RPMs that is why you need all the extra oil otherwise your oil pan will be low due to the oil going to everything else at such a fast rate. I don't remember exactly how it works from college, since I have been off all summer, but my teacher explained it and said that is why drag cars use higher quart oil pans. 3. Do centrifigaul superchargers use Blow off valves? Also how does it work while you are cruising down the interstate? I mean technically won't you be making boost the whole time since I would be at 2.5k rpms at 75mph. Or is there some bypass valve that just bypasses it until you tromp the gas pedal to the floor. 4. What is the different MAF setups? I have heard about before the blower and then after the blower setups. How does each work, and what are the advantages and disadvantages of each? 5. What is the longevity of the supercharger unit itself? Like how long do they last until you have to rebuild them? I mean just a general figure? 6. What all do you need for the supercharger kits besides, fuel injectors,fuel pump,supercharger, mounting bracket, misc bolts, lines, intercooler (optional), intake routing, and tuning? I guess that is all I have at this very minute, if anyone else that has been interested in supercharging their v6 has anymore questions feel free to ask, it won't be thread jacking because it might be something I have but have forgotten.
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![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#2 |
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[8MINUS2]
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1.) just fine
2.) add half a quart you'll be fine. 3.) blow off and buy pass are the same thing configured differently, you can run either depending on setup. 4.) suck through and blow through, I'm a fan of blow through seems easier to tune also. 5.) Vortech - almost forever Procharger - leaky seals will happen sometime. 6.) If you go with vortech you need the ac relocation and lines.
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![]() Hi, You can call me Kyle Random ESG fact: Had a prochamber on his v6 before it was popular. WTB: v6 BBK valve covers |
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#3 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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Ok thanks, that helped a little.
How about anymore info on 3 and 4?
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![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#4 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1999 Mustang V6
Join Date: Dec 2008
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3. You use a BOV if you're going with a blow thru MAF, Bypass if draw through. At 75, or any speed for that matter, the vacuum in the manifold will hold the BOV open and allow the air that the supercharger is pumping to be vented to the atmosphere-before the MAF. I would recommend blow through, but check with local tuners.
4. For the MAF, you'll get by just fine with a MAFia and stock MAF sensor. Or you could always go with an SCT slot style MAF. They work well also, but are more money. |
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#5 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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Ok, I will check with my tuner. I am not buying anything right now, but this way I can get an idea on some stuff. I wan't to maybe piece together a vortech kit. What is the difference between the V2 and the S trim? Or are they the same? What is the order of the blower sizes from vortech for our v6s?
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![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#6 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1999 Mustang V6
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Youngstown
Posts: 1,226
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I'm not positive on any of that. It is easy to piece together, though. I got a lot of my stuff from ebay, all new of course and from places that seemed reputable. The only recommendation I have is not to get the HKS SSQV BOV...it's really fine, but you have to change the spring because they are set up for speed density cars. I just took it apart and used a spring I had laying here at the house and filled the holes in it with rtv lol and it works great now. And it's cheap. tial is always good though.
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#7 |
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[8MINUS2]
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__________________
![]() Hi, You can call me Kyle Random ESG fact: Had a prochamber on his v6 before it was popular. WTB: v6 BBK valve covers |
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#8 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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Location: North Dakota
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Ok thanks for the help both of you.
Ok, well would it be easy to make a centri sc car run 12s? That is the goal for my car.
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![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#9 |
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[8MINUS2]
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Not as easy as a turbo car, but it can happen.
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![]() Hi, You can call me Kyle Random ESG fact: Had a prochamber on his v6 before it was popular. WTB: v6 BBK valve covers |
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#10 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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Ok well I want to go some sort of FI, but it is so pricey. I know that you got to pay to play. And then you add the cost of dyno tuning on top of it.
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![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#11 | |
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[8MINUS2]
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That.
__________________
![]() Hi, You can call me Kyle Random ESG fact: Had a prochamber on his v6 before it was popular. WTB: v6 BBK valve covers |
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#12 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North Dakota
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IDK what to do!
I went drag racing for the first time at my local track and am hooked. I know first before anything I am going to invest in new tires and some suspension work and practice since I had troubles getting traction. But after that I know that I want to run mid 12s. I have been on the edge of getting nitrous at points due to the cheapness, but I figured out that the cost being roughly 50 to fill the bottle at 10 passes per bottle and 1000 for initial cost. So to get to the cost of a sc or turbo kit i would have to make 400 passes or so roughly. But the down side to the nitrous is that my car truly ain't that fast because I won't have that power all the time. Then I thought well sc or turbo. But the fact that there are manufacturers of SC made them seem better since there are kits. I know that a turbo car is going to be faster but there are no manufacturers of kits, and I think I could make a kit with enough research since I can weld and have access to the tools needed. But would it last? Would it work correctly since I am not a professional and would have never made a kit until then. And also the time involved would be a lot. What are your guys input on this.
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![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#13 |
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[8MINUS2]
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If you learn you can build whatever you want, it lasting depends on your welds.
Nitrous + supporting + tune = priced of used s/c kit
__________________
![]() Hi, You can call me Kyle Random ESG fact: Had a prochamber on his v6 before it was popular. WTB: v6 BBK valve covers |
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#14 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 2,933
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I know that I want a 12sec DD stang. I want it to be reliable and I want to do it affordably. I know that I can't cheap out on stuff otherwise it won't be reliable but I mean that I want to figure out exactly what I need and see if I can find deals on them.
__________________
![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#15 |
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[8MINUS2]
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The easy way to go about this is....
Get the money in your hand first, otherwise your going to keep thinking [and posting] forever.
__________________
![]() Hi, You can call me Kyle Random ESG fact: Had a prochamber on his v6 before it was popular. WTB: v6 BBK valve covers |
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#16 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North Dakota
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Well the problem about getting the money in the hand is the fact that I want to go fast now so I keep getting side tracked on stupid bolt ons.
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![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#17 |
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[8MINUS2]
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Yep thats a big problem, because eventually all those /stupid bolt ons/ are gonna cost you the same as a used s/c kit and give you maybe 15-25peak horsepower.. Start a savings account
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![]() Hi, You can call me Kyle Random ESG fact: Had a prochamber on his v6 before it was popular. WTB: v6 BBK valve covers Last edited by ESG-642T; August 9th, 2010 at 08:32 PM. |
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#18 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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I know what you mean, I am sure right now I have spent close to that and could have bought one.
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![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#19 |
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Regular
02 Mustang V6
13.605 @ 101.60
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 336
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Yea and don't get a nitrous kit because you're 100% correct about not having the power when you need/want it. Even if you DO have the bottle full, it's not always on, and when a 2010 Camaro pulls up next to you AND your bottle is on, it's not warm and you lose. It sucks. Spank the V6's all day at the track but on the street if everything isn't right, your power isn't 100% and it is a crappy feeling.... Start saving!
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BBK Intake, BBK 70MM Throttle Body w/ Port Matched Upper Intake, BBK Shorty Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, GT Tips, Eibach Sportline Springs, EGR Delete, Aluminum DS, 7.5 T-Lok w/ 3.73's, Centerforce Clutch, ZEX 75 Shot, Sniper Tuned
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#20 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North Dakota
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I think that is what I am going to do. I think I am going to start another savings account. And stuff I sell from car goes into there and then I am going to start taking so much out of my paycheck each week and putting it in there.
Then when I start getting close or around 2k, I can start thinking about weather or not to just keep saving more and go all out and get a turbo or buy a sc. I got another idea to I am going to start talking to ppl at the local track and see if they have any info on stuff about turboing and if there are ppl that will weld the manifolds and stuff. And if not, then I will have to just weld them myself. I just am worried about not having a car. But I guess when the time comes I can worry about that
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![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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