[00mustangv6]

for a v6 daily driver with some mods not for racing? id like to put a whole system in the brakes are shot for the best price

[mustangmike!]

Turn rotors + new pads from local auto parts store works wonders

[mustangmike!]

but if you really want to spend that kind of money just on brakes, a good pair of stock or just like them; GT, Mach1, or Cobra brakes.

Dont go waste a ton on the big slotted and drilled brakes for a DD

[southfour!]

Originally Posted by mustangmike! but if you really want to spend that kind of money just on brakes, a good pair of stock or just like them; GT, Mach1, or Cobra brakes. Dont go waste a ton on the big slotted and drilled brakes for a DD

Gt brakes are the same as sixxers

If you want to upgrade get a set of bullitt/Mach/ or Cobra fronts

For the rear you will need the brake brackets which requires pulling out the axles in the rear end so you will also need new diff oil.

The rear calipers on all new edge mustangs are the same with the exception of the Mach/ cobra and bullitt using thinner pads for a wider rotor. If your stock rear calipers are good they can be modified to use the larger cobra rotors.

You will also need the larger cobra anti moan braces from a 94-98 cobra

American muscle sells all the parts needed in the kit for $184 and that is the best deal

You should be able to find a used set of front calipers and rotors for about $250-$300

[2000stallion]

You dont need to stop fast unless you can go fast....

[v6kid]

^ true... I'm probably never going to upgrade my brakes. I'm never going to go over 100. And I already have a problem with my skinny stock tires losing traction from braking.

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by v6kid And I already have a problem with my skinny stock tires losing traction from braking.

If that's the case, there is NOTHING you can do to increase your braking performance until you upgrade your tires (well, other than adding ABS).

Once you have better tires, my suggestion is to get stainless braided lines, get some *good* brake pads (Hawks, EBCs, or Porterfields), then flush your system, replacing the fluid with DOT 4 (higher DOT rating means higher boiling point, which means the system can take more heat before your pedal goes soft).

The only reason for bigger brakes is that they can absorb more heat before heatsoaking. If you're not pushing hard enough to get heat-related issues, then bigger brakes are actually detrimental to performance as they're just unnecessary unsprung weight.

[v6kid]

You always seem to amaze me at your level of knowledge

[2000stallion]

Originally Posted by v6kid You always seem to amaze me at your level of knowledge

LOL me too

[GreenMustang00]

Who needs to stop anyways???

[2000stallion]

haha yeah i roll stop signs all day long! but seriously...i dont

[Gerbig]

go to autozone..i got duralast ceramic and they have lifetime warranty, even on normal wear

[Six Banger]

Originally Posted by GreenMustang00 Who needs to stop anyways???

newbs



































and me

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by Gerbig go to autozone..i got duralast ceramic and they have lifetime warranty, even on normal wear

You say that like it's a good thing; brake pads *should* be a wear item. You have to think about why those pads have a lifetime warranty, and how that relates to how they actually work.