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#1 |
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Newbie
1998 Mustang
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 23
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1998 A/C Problems =(
Heating works fine but cold air is a huge no go....and I live in Florida. I can't take it anymore, driving 60 to cool off just doesn't cut it in FL summers. I thought it was just a simple freon recharge fix but when I attach the 134 can with a gauge and turn the system to max cooling the gauge reads ~130psi on the LOW side. I know its the low side because it only fits on one side. I am by no means an expert in A/C systems, I know how they work theoretically but other than that....
Prelim. research shows that it might be the expansion valve but I have no clue. Problem is I cannot afford the starting price of a shop to find out what is wrong (90 for the refrigerant & dye) let alone how much it would be to fix the whole system. Am I stuck between a rock and a hard place or is there any way I can fix this on my own? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you! |
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#2 |
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King of Clubhouse
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When you turn it on does it blow at all?
Does it make any sounds? Is it cool at all or completely hot? Do you hear the A/C compressor kick on? Have you ever put freon in it? |
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#3 | |
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Newbie
1998 Mustang
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 23
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The only sound I hear is a delayed clicking sound after turning it on and immediately after turning it off Not a hint o' cool The only thing that happens is the lights dim and the rpm slightly drops (makes sense though) and makes that clicking sound. I was going to but the low side was so outrageously high that I didn't want to touch it. |
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#4 |
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King of Clubhouse
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Ok well good thing you didnt add more to it.
The clicking I know there is something wrong there if its blowing then the compressor is working I want to think the clutch might not be kicking in if its clicking Ill ask tomorrow and see what my friend says and get back to ya if no one else responds! Quick google search left me with this The others are right. Frequent cycling of the A/C clutch is usually an indication that the charge is low. Ford A/C works on the basis of two switches (contained in the same assembly). The first switch detects when the pressure is high enough to allow the pump to run. The second switch detects when the pressure is falls too far while the pump is running. If the A/C pump ran all the time, then on cool days the temperature would keep dropping, condensation on the low pressure lines would freeze, the evaporator passages would freeze shut, and there would be no cooling from the system. To manage this, when the low pressure lines drop below a certain pressure (which cooresponds to the pressure at which the liquid state of the refrigerant is a few degrees below freezing) the compressor clutch disengages to allow the pressure to build back up. When it crosses the cut-in threshold the pump restarts to drive the low pressure back down. When the refrigerant is low, the pressure drops right away, the system cycles fast (10 secs or so), and there is very little cooling (because the heat capacity of the small amount of coolant in the system is so small) In my opinion, the only information provided by the low pressure gauge is that the pressure switch is working right. For charging, you have to make sure the cycling frequency is right, and the low pressure temperature AFTER the evaporator is low enough. Also, if you're adding refrigerant, then you're losing refrigerant. Some of the oil escapes with the refrigerant, so you need to add a couple of ounzes of oil to replace it. Also, add refrigerant with flourescent dye so that you can find the leak at a later time.
__________________
![]() Dumbass Club Founder MM + Cleavage member #23 Last edited by Till; September 4th, 2010 at 12:00 AM. |
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#5 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1999 Mustang v6
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 1,731
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1. When you turn it on does the clutch kick in and make it spin?
1A. If it does spin how long is it spinning for? 2. When you had the gauge hooked up was the A/C on or off?
__________________
I went to school to be a mechanic, so I know what I'm talking about most of the time. mods in the garage, slowly getting peppier. 6ershootout.com summer of 2012... Be There |
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#6 |
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Newbie
1998 Mustang
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 23
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The clutch never kicks in...and just to make sure I am correct in what I am talking about the a/c clutch has 3 circular knobs on the front with a solid plate behind it that engages with the rest of the pulley correct?? (http://autorepair.about.com/library/...s/78279096.gif) numero dos.
I had the gauge hooked up at both times... Off=150+psi (system isn't engaged though so not really a proper reading) On=130psi |
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#7 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1999 Mustang v6
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 1,731
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Just so I am getting this right. You had the engine running, the hood popped, and were looking at the clutch (the part with 3 knobs) for at least a good 2 minutes, and it never clicked and started spinning?
__________________
I went to school to be a mechanic, so I know what I'm talking about most of the time. mods in the garage, slowly getting peppier. 6ershootout.com summer of 2012... Be There |
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#8 |
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King of Clubhouse
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If thats the case your clutch is crapped out I think you'll have to buy a new one if not a new compressor Ill get you a ball park figure today at work and see if their are any ways to get around buying a new compressor.
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#9 |
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Newbie
1998 Mustang
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 23
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Yes, that is correct the clutch never engaged.
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#10 |
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King of Clubhouse
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Hey bro ok have a update for you,
After talking to my friend this is what I have found out You have 2 sensors and they might be bad. Now take your wire from your ac compressor thats hot and touch the positive on the battery see if the ac clutch kicks in or not (compresses). If it DOES then your clutch is good and its a sensor, or you dont have enough freon in it. If it DOES NOT then your ac clutch is dead and you have to A) (if possible) rebuild the clutch B) Buy a new ac compressor! |
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#11 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1999 Mustang v6
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 1,731
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I'm gonna say to start where Tiller said. But before you try to jump around the existing wiring, just check to see if there is any voltage getting to the compressor.
If there is no voltage getting to the compressor then check fuses and your high/low pressure switches. If voltage is making it to the compressor then it is most likely the clutch is bad.
__________________
I went to school to be a mechanic, so I know what I'm talking about most of the time. mods in the garage, slowly getting peppier. 6ershootout.com summer of 2012... Be There |
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#12 |
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Newbie
1998 Mustang
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 23
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Thank you both very much, I will try both tomorrow and let you know what happens!
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#13 |
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Newbie
1998 Mustang
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 23
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Fuses all look good the problem is I'm not sure which wire coming off the compressor is the hot wire and can't find a wiring diagram for the life of me!
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#14 |
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King of Clubhouse
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One wire should go straight to the body or to the ground. the other should be hot.
Not sure which one sorry bro ![]() Either that or take a wire a thick gauge wire and touch the wires on the compressor lol ^ if you do do that please becareful |
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#15 |
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Newbie
1998 Mustang
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 23
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Yea, I hate wiring harnesses and forbid that the colors are any different one is black and the other is black with a lime green stripe. Bah. Time to find a Chilton's.
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