Supercharged 4 - Cylinder 5, ticking noise: Hlp Plz
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Old October 7th, 2010, 11:41 AM   #1
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Supercharged 4 - Cylinder 5, ticking noise: Hlp Plz


Hi,

The engine was misfiring twice this week and both times the cause was a spark plug on cylinder 5 that kept getting the electrode smashed. The first time I changed it and the engine seemed normal. The second time i changed it the misfire went away, there are no codes so the engine SEEMS normal again, but now there is a ticking sound on that side of the engine (driver side, possibly cylinder 5). The sound reminds me of a bad lifter, but I am wondering if it is a badly bent valve? Could a damaged valve been the cause of the damage to the plugs?

- I was only using the motorcraft plugs recommended for that engine
- Both times the misfire (damage to the plug) happened after a powerful boost (don't know PSI)

I appreciate everyone's help with this.
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Old October 7th, 2010, 11:56 AM   #2
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i feel like you would hear alot more noise and would notice a huge difference if a valve got smashed so bad that it messed your spark plug up.
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Old October 7th, 2010, 01:13 PM   #3
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@ag11hockey - I hear you, but I can't figure out for the life of me what keeps smashing that plug and it's only on the 5th cylinder. The others are fine.
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Old October 7th, 2010, 01:25 PM   #4
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Details on the car?
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Old October 7th, 2010, 01:33 PM   #5
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@ESG-642T - Vortech V3 HO/330 HP/337 lb/ft torque/ S/C on a 4.0L, stock ignition - changed cyl 5's coil pack in the last 3 wks (it was dead), dual exhaust with highflow cats
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Old October 7th, 2010, 02:09 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by dreslion View Post
@ESG-642T - Vortech V3 HO/330 HP/337 lb/ft torque/ S/C on a 4.0L, stock ignition - changed cyl 5's coil pack in the last 3 wks (it was dead), dual exhaust with highflow cats
what plugs?
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Old October 7th, 2010, 02:15 PM   #7
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Motorcraft AGSF 24N
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Old October 7th, 2010, 03:22 PM   #8
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gapped at .043
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Old October 7th, 2010, 11:31 PM   #9
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Any thoughts?

Could it be that something may have gotten sucked into the intake, stuck in that cylinder and is banging into the plug when under pressure.

- Now the ticking could that be a bad spring?

What happens when a centrifugal S/C goes bad? can some internal components dislodge and get sucked into the engine and still have the charger work? maybe piece of one of the gears?

Help Plz!!!!

Thanks
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Old October 7th, 2010, 11:46 PM   #10
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you would know if the supercharger blew...
ticking...if it just started with the plug getting damaged, could it be a part of the plug? There's definitely something going on and I wouldn't drive that til you check it out. Or if you have to, stay realy light on it.

Damaging spark plugs twice definitely means something up.
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Old October 8th, 2010, 12:08 AM   #11
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@9986paulk: u r right. part of the ceramic piece from around the electrode was missing from the first plug. BUT that still does not explain why the first plug detonated and collapsed. weird....
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Old October 8th, 2010, 12:13 AM   #12
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is that spark plug the same as all your other ones? if its the same one you bought make sure its the actual same one maybe a handling error has put different plugs into your plugs packaging. Two things could occur from that, the plug physically being hit or maybe its burning too hot/cold.
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Old October 8th, 2010, 01:01 AM   #13
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Usually when you go boosted you want to run colder plugs gapped at .030-.035.

Are these the plugs that are supposed to run in the NA engine?
I'm running NGK-TR55s gapped at .030. Cheap (1.25$ ea) and effective.
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Old October 8th, 2010, 10:26 AM   #14
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i thought you only wanted to run colder plugs with spray. correct me if im wrong though lol. anyways im getting off topic here.
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Old October 8th, 2010, 10:40 AM   #15
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Boost or spray you need to go down a heat range. Plugs break, it happens...when I was trying to find my plug gap I was shitcanning Autolite plugs every 1,000 miles or so. That gets expensive at $150 a set, but I learned that Autolite (Motorcraft also) plugs are garbage from that experience. Stop driving it, get it borescoped to see if there is still a chunk of something in your cylinder...if it gets in a valve, or stuck between your cylinder wall and ring land, you're fucked.
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Old October 8th, 2010, 01:35 PM   #16
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Yeah I hear you, but those plugs don't look like they detonated. They look like something hit them. I took it down a heat range from what it was before. The plugs that were pulled out of the engine were at .05 and I took them down to .04. History: at .05 the S/C was fine, but I needed to change the plugs because of MMT fouling. Some a-hole used additives. That was when I regapped the new ones to .04 and ran like that for about a month. Eventually the CATS went from A/F I guess (no gauges yet). I replaced them with highflows, changed all 4 02s and changed the coil pack because cylinder 5 was not firing. 1 week later I blew the first plug - the ceramic around it was broken and the electrodes were touching (no Gap). I replaced it with another plug and that one blew 4 days later when I gunned it off the line (I was gunning it the entire time since the first plug blowout and no problems). When the second plug blew the tip was now past the electrode. Something is definitely hitting it. I am having it scoped right now and hopefully I wont have to do a head job (pause).
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Old October 8th, 2010, 04:34 PM   #17
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Right, I never said it was detonation. Whatever is hitting your spark plug, like a chunk of ceramic from another plug, could still be in your cylinder...whacking your valves and scoring your cylinder walls, and punching your spark plugs. I read what you said. Did they find anything when it was scoped?
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Old October 8th, 2010, 05:55 PM   #18
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They said I may need to have the entire head machined.... Whatever is in there is in there good.
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Old October 8th, 2010, 06:06 PM   #19
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You can take the serp belt off and listen to the motor. Not gonna hurt a thing as long as you dont let it get hot.

Post pics of the plugs. The first plug the was damaged, did you find all of the peices? I'm gonna bet that you have a peice of that spark plug inside the motor. You def dont want that peice droping in the combustion chamber and eating the #5 piston up, lol. Be a good idea to pull the head before any damage is done.

btw...once you fix this issue you should switch to the ngk-tr6($2.00 plug) and gap it at .030.


Edit...1st of you were running to much gap and were running the wrong heat range plug. Probablly heated it up after numerous runs and it had enough. Do as I suggested above to avoid any damage to other cyl.
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Old October 8th, 2010, 07:54 PM   #20
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The ceramic piece is still in there and it already starte eating up the piston. you can see metal shavings in the oil. The heads have to come off and get machined ($2800!). Not doing that right now, just finished dropping $1500 worth of exhaust work + $300 for ignition work. That will have to wait until the spring. I'm just going to have them flush the engine and we'll see what happens from there. What' the worse that can happen? At $2800 to machine only one side of the engine, might as well drop another motor in and reuse the components from this one for a few hundred more. I will switch out the plugs once I get the car back. Thanks

PS This SUCKS! ESPECIALLY SINCE I'M NOT EVEN GETTING ANY PERFORMANCE MODS OUT OF IT!
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