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#1 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 2,933
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Hard Starting
Hey guys, I have a question.
My car when I go out to start it in the morning when it is cooler out even 40 degrees cranks forever. I mean it cranks strong, but it cranks porbably 6-10 seconds before it will run. Then once it starts. If I push the gas it is all boggy and like it has no power. I have a year old battery in the car. I have cleaned the connections on the battery cables. It seems to me like a fuel problem. Like the pump is not priming the engine when I turn the key? Any ideas, also it did it twice when it cranked hard, the lights on the inside of my car like the CD player and everything went like the battery was disconnected. It was strange, it only did that twice so far. Also as far as the starter, it sounds like it cranks hard. The car has only 93k on it and I am not sure if it is the original fuel pump or not, I know I replaced fuel filter 30k ago. Also, it has done it through multiple tanks of gas filled at different places. Ok thanks for any input or ideas.
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![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#2 |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Portland, TN
Posts: 17,515
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have you changed your fuel filter...it could be clogged
it's the cheapest fix to start with at least |
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#3 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 2,933
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Like I said I did it around 30 k ago. I will try that. Any other ideas incase it is not that?
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![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#4 |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Portland, TN
Posts: 17,515
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#5 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 2,933
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I was talking to my teacher and was thinking about this vehicle I worked on.
I almost think it is the check ball in the fuel pump. It makes sense. Because it only does it when it has been sitting for a long time. It makes sense that the check ball is not working because it is allowing fuel to drain back. If I cycle the key to just before start twice, it primes it and fires right up. I am going to try hooking a fuel pressure gauge to it and cycling the key and see if it holds the pressure, or hook it up in the morning and see if there is any pressure at first, that would tell me if I have fuel in the line.
__________________
![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#6 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1999 Mustang v6
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 1,725
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Mine is starting to get like that. If I let it sit for more than one day she doesn't like starting... The check valve sounds like a huge possibility.
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I went to school to be a mechanic, so I know what I'm talking about most of the time. mods in the garage, slowly getting peppier. 6ershootout.com summer of 2012... Be There |
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#7 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 2,933
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I hope mine at least makes the winter. I think it will as long as I cycle the key twice. Then this spring I will replace it with a performance pump. Since i plan on running a 100 to 125 shot of nitrous.
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![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#8 |
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MM Fanatic
KB'd GT
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 4,467
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Try turning the key to on and leave it there for 1.5 seconds before you go to start. I do this because i have removed the pprv (check valve) and it primes fuel into the lines and starts right away. If i just turn it to start right away it will sputter sometimes and have extended crank time.
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#9 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 2,933
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Ok, I think that is kind of doing the same thing as me cycling the key twice because the key is being on more time.
Also, why did you remove the PPRV? I am JC
__________________
![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#10 |
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Resident badass
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Test the battery. I bet it has a low acidity. (going bad) How old is the battery? Most are rated for 2-5 years.
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![]() 271rwhp N/A V6 ![]() The Name is Danny. I'm a GM Technician. Suck it. |
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#11 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
1999 Mustang v6
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 1,725
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Extra flow
__________________
I went to school to be a mechanic, so I know what I'm talking about most of the time. mods in the garage, slowly getting peppier. 6ershootout.com summer of 2012... Be There |
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#12 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
'00 V6 Procharged Mustang
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: WA
Posts: 1,345
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Joe actually has a pretty good writeup on the PPRV HERE
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2000 Prochaged V6. T-lok, Mach 1 takeoff exhaust with H-pipe, 20% tint, OEM fogs and all HIDs. SAE Corrected: 289HP/298TQ at 5100RPM(Pegged MAF). |
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#13 |
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MM Fanatic
KB'd GT
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 4,467
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thanks.
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#14 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 2,933
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Ok, I will read his writeup.
And like I said my battery is only 6 months old. And they last pretty long where I am from because they don't see the extreme heat which is hard on batteries. They just tend to die a lot faster in the cold, but my last battery was the orginal and that lasted almost 8 years. EDIT: THat is sweet about the PPRV. That makes a lot of sense actually. Well I am not going to drop my tank to get at my fuel pump but if this one dies on me and I go with a aftermarket one or performance pump to keep up with the 100-125 shot then I will definately delete that.
__________________
![]() UDP, CAI, True Duals, LTs, 91 Tune from TT, 3.73 gears, Tlok,Windstar upper, GT TB, Ported lower, Comp 218/226 cam, FRPP C Springs, J&M LCA, Tokico Blue shocks and struts, and J&M Full Length Subframe Connectors |
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#15 |
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Newbie
1999 Mustang
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 14
![]() iTrader: 0 reviews
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they recommend changing fuel filters every 12,000 miles or once a year. I just make it part of my yearly tune up (might as well, they arent that expensive). And what kind of plugs do you have in ur car?
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#16 |
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Regular
2001 Mustang
0 - 60 5 minutes
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 83
![]() iTrader: 0 reviews
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Here at Ford its only recommended to replace ur fuel filter once every 30k doing it earlier will not hurt at all, but not rly needed.
... unless ofc u only drive like 5k miles a year then i suggest doing it earlier than 30k |
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