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Old January 29th, 2012, 06:52 PM   #1221
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Originally Posted by Matt. View Post
Getting on longtubes with studs suck. But since they are on there never comming off
until you turbo it

mike, get the thread in head fixed?
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Old January 29th, 2012, 10:07 PM   #1222
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Originally Posted by Matt. View Post
Getting on longtubes with studs suck. But since they are on there never comming off

What cowl is on your car? Sig pic looks pretty good.
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Old January 29th, 2012, 11:05 PM   #1223
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Originally Posted by JTs03v6 View Post
What cowl is on your car? Sig pic looks pretty good.
3.5in cervinis 95 cobra r. Its been on the car for awhile, i just havent been around alot.
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Old January 30th, 2012, 11:21 AM   #1224
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Originally Posted by v6procharged View Post
until you turbo it

mike, get the thread in head fixed?
Used a tap on the head yes, but either need a bew bolt or work on my current bolt a little. It has a bad thread on it.

Originally Posted by Matt. View Post
3.5in cervinis 95 cobra r. Its been on the car for awhile, i just havent been around alot.
If I ever get a new paint job, im buying a 3.5'' cowl, that shit is sexy
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Old January 30th, 2012, 12:27 PM   #1225
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Cowl hoods are ugly!
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Old January 30th, 2012, 01:03 PM   #1226
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Originally Posted by ESG-642T View Post
Cowl hoods are ugly!
Just on your POS car
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Old February 1st, 2012, 11:09 AM   #1227
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Well car is coming together

Down to long block w/ headers, timing, and HB.

Ill be getting the top end on hopefully thursday
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Old February 1st, 2012, 08:02 PM   #1228
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What all is going to different from last time?
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Old February 1st, 2012, 09:01 PM   #1229
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uhhhmmm Stall and Jmod
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Old February 1st, 2012, 11:01 PM   #1230
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So just tranny stuff? Why do you have the engine stripped?
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Old February 1st, 2012, 11:26 PM   #1231
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head gasket went shit
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Old February 1st, 2012, 11:41 PM   #1232
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LOL. Mine too. But so did the rings.
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Old February 2nd, 2012, 10:18 PM   #1233
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mehhh

I think the small stall makes the gas feel a bit more touchy
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Old February 6th, 2012, 10:11 AM   #1234
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Ok guys sorry for being late on pics, but here is the last of the installation of the Jmod.


I used a jack and 1/2'' entension about 6'' long to compress the shift accumalator and remove the spring. I had to borrow a friends retainer pliers for that.

one ready, I cleaned up the tranny w/ some B12 and wiped it down real well and went from there:

Their is a small filter that falls out with removal of the Valve Body.


Instructions say to coat the top with vasaline (however its spelled) being that it will easily dissolve into the trans oil and it will make the filter stick into place.




You can see the partial rectangular shape that it fits into here




Place filter into position:





After I drilled the VB and made sure the gasket holes matched the new drill specs, I replaced the gaskets, plate, round support plates, and upper gasket





It this point the VB is ready to go back into place

When replacing, the shifter piston has to go back into its correct position, be sure to double check this. But all the write ups say this

During removal of the VB, their is wiring that goes over it that you must remove first. In the later years, the wiring is built onto a plastic board.



I used some silicone electric grease on the connections to help protect them.




At this point, if all connections are in place, and your ready to finish this up.
You'll install the new filter, lube the ring w/ some tranny oil to help it slide in.
I had a really hard time with getting the new filter to seat into place. I beat on it and everything. Finally brought the jack back and lifted up on the filter till it pushed it into place :p SMALL bend in the filter wall from it, but If I would have had the Jack in a better spot It wouldn't have. But hey ! The filter stayed





Once everything is in place. wipe down the the gasket surface if you haven't already. And clean up the gasket.
I also cleaned out my oil pan some and the magnent on it as well.
Once done, bolt the pan up according to Ford's specs. My pan come stock with a reusable gasket btw. So I reused it.


At first I was quite nervous to tackle this project. It sounds a lot harder then it is (atleast for the late model, it IS NOT HARD AT ALL). If you have a hand full of tools, a drill and some bits, and a few other supplies, the biggest cost will be the two new gaskets. It was just over 4.00$ for both from FORD dealership.


Any questions, just ask !
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Old February 6th, 2012, 10:12 AM   #1235
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^

please ignore the dates, i was using a different camera that I didn't notice the date was on ...
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Old February 7th, 2012, 12:21 AM   #1236
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So How dose it run??
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Old February 7th, 2012, 12:43 AM   #1237
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Fair. Revs a bit quicker. Feels decent Id say.
Stall isn't very strong.
Reminds me how weak those rear brakes are ... lol

Only getting about a 2200rpm foot brake ...
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Old February 7th, 2012, 01:07 PM   #1238
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Hows slipage during DD? And hows it act from a dig and roll?
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Old February 10th, 2012, 12:34 AM   #1239
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Hey sorry for late response. I had a O ring on the lower intake break and started spraying coolant everywhere ! Thankfully I was like 20' past my driveway lol

But I had to pull off the lower intake to get to it and had a bolt break off into my head.

Got it out this morning, and tonight my dad and I tried to get the pipe back in and the New O ring was to thick ... So in the morning I have to go O ring hunting ...

Going kinda slow. My grandma is in a nursing home now, and her house hasn't been payed on in 2 months to were trying to empty it right now incase they repo. But Im looking into buying it myself.




As far as driving went, It was touchy for sure. revved up quicker. Sometimes letting off the break from a dead stop I could feel a little more slip. But it was very close to stock. And didn't seem to foot break very high at all, 21-2200 rpm ...
Mines a 3200, wouldn't hurt to bump up to a 3400 if you want something still streetable. 3600 might be borderline idk.
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Old February 10th, 2012, 07:22 PM   #1240
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Wow, havent been on mm for a while diggin the new smileys


Mike, it sounds like your stall is doing what it's suppost to do. Just remember your not going to get much stall with stock rear brakes and the tq your making. The e-brake will get you to 2600rpm for sure. Also if you made more tq the flash would be much higher. The flash is the reving faster you speak of.

My converter will stall to 3000rpm on the turbo and has a flash of 4800rpm and mine is a 3400. Another thing that will get you a little more stall is a porportioning valve for your brakes(so I'm told). It allows you to give the rear brakes more fluid.

If you had a small shot on it you'd see a HUGE difference in how the converter responds. I also have a few secrets on how to 60' better when you take it to the track.
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