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Old December 8th, 2010, 12:38 PM   23 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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Mikes N/A Build, HCI Swap Info


"To MM members and viewers,

I just want to say sorry about scattering the pics in this thread. I know this helped a lot of people and answered many questions. If at anytime someone goes through this thread and needs to see the picutres, please feel free to post, or PM me concerning the issue. I still have all of the pictures, though I have adjusted a few things on my photobucket.
If you would like to see a picture, please when you post or PM give me a page number and post number. Ill get back to you asap!
I hope everyone finds this very educational, and can help influence your decision on modding a V6. Id just like to inform anyone who reads this that, when this started, I only have had basic home mechanic experience. Helped my dad occasionaly on vehicles, but never had I been into an engine before. Though my dad had been through plenty over the years. I started this project a year ago, my dad was working away for awhile so I rarely had help from him. The only resource I really had was this thread, researching what I could on google, and a Chilton's manual. A little common sense goes a long way as well!!!! Now I have access to many tools and had to rent a few as well. But for the most part, I used a craftsman tool set, about a 230 pc kit I believe. I will say this is a somewhat difficult procedure, and not something to cheap out on. You need to take your time and deal with the detailed work. I had to many issues from cheap ways out.

For those of you interested in a Cam or N/A build, I will give you my dead honest opinion being that I have just done this. Dont... Simple as that.
Now its hard for me to explain this and add up costs, simply because I had to buy entirely to many parts twice. But if I bought it all up front and had no issues, its still scary. Had I spent the same amount to get it dyno'd turn key, I could have done a basic turbo kit on a stock engine and put 300-350rwhp and probably would have been easier to do. I know FI sounds scary, but if done right and a good dyno tune used, it can be very safe so please dont let that be a factor. So if your looking for power and track times, N/A is not the way to go at all !!!!

I will say I really really like my car, I get many compliments on it, and many people have said its the best sounding cammed 6er they've heard. 14.37 and 9.23 track times on a stock auto aren't bad but aren't good either !!! If your interested on a FULL mod list, please view my garage. Im only 20 years old, Ive been good about saving most of my life and spent a shit load on this project. I was not working full time during this but was going to school full time and work prn (20 or so hours a week I guess). Paramedic shool is no joke either! Also know that the day I started this project, their was Ice/Snow on the ground, ice sickles dripping off the roof. I did this in an open car port, and thankfully it was on the south side of my house, so it helped block the north wind. Most of my work was done In th evening as well, some nights I was up till 2am working. 20* weather. It was cold. It sucked. Life story huh?

If you have any tech questions, or pic requests, I would perfer you post on this thread so others may learn as well.


For a teaser:



"

Hope people have enjoyed this thread, I know its long and lots of bs included. Im sorry all the pics are gone. But Ill be more then happy to give whatever I can to anyone. I still have all my pictures !!!!

And just for an update, This friday or maybe next monday, I have a 3200 9.5'' stall from revmax on the way. Engine is out and getting peiced back together after my head gasket leaking ordeal ...

Cant wait to see new 60' and ETs !!!

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Old December 8th, 2010, 01:12 PM   #2
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It should be pretty obvious what needs to come off from what I remember. You just have to get the engine front cover off, so that means The PS/AC bracket needs to come off. Then just the engine front cover and all that stuff inside.
As for gaskets, get an engine front cover gasket kit and lower intake manifold gasket kit. That's all if IIRC.

Then oil, you can filter and reuse the coolant, I useda white assembly greasy type lube.
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Old December 8th, 2010, 01:15 PM   #3
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Radiator can stay on ?
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Old December 8th, 2010, 01:17 PM   #4
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^^ i dont think so.
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Old December 8th, 2010, 01:18 PM   #5
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I need to know all that
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Old December 8th, 2010, 01:25 PM   #6
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Radiator does stay on. All you have to take off it the fan.
I think my Ford workshop manual says all this and the order to do it in. But it doesn't really matter, as long as it all comes off. The only thing you need to remember is to take out the 'hidden' alen screw in the engine front cover.
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Old December 8th, 2010, 01:28 PM   #7
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Sorry, im still learning about alot of stuff. But, where did you buy your cam?
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Old December 8th, 2010, 03:38 PM   #8
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Our fellow member.
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Old December 8th, 2010, 03:39 PM   #9
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Hmm...

Maybe I'll do a time lapse video of the swap IF I change cams during Christmas :p
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Old December 8th, 2010, 03:42 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by ESG-642T View Post
Hmm...

Maybe I'll do a time lapse video of the swap IF I change cams during Christmas :p
has my new one gone out yet? And a video would be great
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Old December 8th, 2010, 04:01 PM   #11
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the magical search button:

V6
My Cam Install


This is for a V8, but it'll give you an idea of the work envolved - and remember a v8's cams are on top of the block in the heads and not buried in the block:
Cam install today (and probly tommorow too)


And here on SSM's install guide are some good pics of how it's done:
http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/p...PakInstall.pdf



From what I'm seeing you can keep the radiator in,but you will def. have to drain the thing out. I should be doing this myself before the end of April in conjunction with my t-5 swap.

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Old December 8th, 2010, 04:12 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by AndyG47 View Post
the magical search button:

My Cam Install



_
Holy shit, that did explain each and every question I had !

NOT

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Old December 8th, 2010, 04:51 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by 9986paulk View Post
It should be pretty obvious what needs to come off from what I remember. You just have to get the engine front cover off, so that means The PS/AC bracket needs to come off. Then just the engine front cover and all that stuff inside.
As for gaskets, get an engine front cover gasket kit and lower intake manifold gasket kit. That's all if IIRC.

Then oil, you can filter and reuse the coolant, I useda white assembly greasy type lube.

AC/ bracket does not need to come off.

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Old December 8th, 2010, 05:03 PM   #14
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Ok, so can someone make a list of the parts ill need to buy, and the parts that need to come off.
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Old December 8th, 2010, 05:06 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by rfcsoulja View Post
AC/ bracket does not need to come off.

Yeah my bad, I meant Alt. Which is the same as power steering.
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Old December 8th, 2010, 05:24 PM   #16
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didn't we just say them all? honestly i don't know how we can go more in depth without making a video/a write-up with pics of removing every bolt. But, here it goes...

Drain Radiator
Disconnect necessary electrical connectors (including crank/cam position sensor)
Remove upper intake
Remove Lower Intake
Remove Valve Covers
Remove Rocker Arms
Remove pushrods/lifter holder thing/lifters
Remove fan
Remove alternator/PS pump bracket (I'd recommend removing the alternator because you just leave the PS pump/bracket hanging there IIRC)
Remove the Camshaft Pos. Sensor
Remove Cam Synchronizer Assembly (while cyl 1 is at TDC of compression stroke, there is a mark on the balancer to line up. Then mark the whole assembly with a marker for proper re-install alighment. tooth should be in middle of window at this point)
At some point, you've got to remove the crank pulley with a puller tool (can carefully reinstall with a piece of wood and sledge hammer)
Remove Engine Front Cover
Remove...i don't remember right now...it should be very obvious after this point. when removing the timing chain, you have to prop the tensioner back. should be easy to follow the rest in a manual.
Just be careful when removing and installing the cam (timing marks should all be lines up), not to clunk it around and damage the journals at all.
it's really not that hard. then reverse and refill fluids. and change oil too in case you got water in it, which is pretty likely.

Everyone feel free to correct me in case I missed anything.
hope this helps! just ask if you need more help.
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Old December 8th, 2010, 05:30 PM   #17
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Sweet Guys ! 9986paulk thats exactly what I was looking for, ill print that out as another tool when we go to do this !!

I cant wait to get that cam in and hear her start up !!!! Gonna make alot of people shit their pants for hating on a V6 :p

Thanks everyone for your time and input, I hope everything goes well when I start, my dad will be leaving for work so I hope our schedules work out, cant really help his even though we've planned on doing this awhile now. He has done cam work before, but doing it in car on a latemodel V6 is new to him. Shouldnt be to hard by the sound of it ! I cant wait to take shit apart !!!
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Old December 8th, 2010, 05:41 PM   #18
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Yeah it shoudln't be bad. It's fun and you'll learn a lot about an engine. It'll take a week if you work on it just a little bit every night like I did the first time. After that it'll take 4 hours or so.
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Old December 8th, 2010, 05:46 PM   #19
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Well im sure ill be made to do it by myself mostly instead of being helped and taught ... lol I guess you learn somehow.
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Old December 8th, 2010, 09:22 PM   #20
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Don't forget to get all new gaskets for the timing cover, lower intake, upper intake, valve cover. Also you may want to replace your lifters if you have a lot of miles 100k + same goes for the timing chain and gear while you are in there.

You are going to need some special tools too such as a valve spring compressor for on the car and a threaded in hose that will allow you to put regulated air into each cylinder to prevent the valves from falling into the heads when you remove the retainers and springs. I would only put around 50PSI at most in the cylinders when removing the retainers, any more you may spin the motor over with the air pressure.

Another good thing to replace would be your valve seals while you are in there.

EDIT: You may want to get a haynes manual, it is 10 bucks but will help you and save you if you get stuck, and works well for future things.
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