2000 Mustang V6 -- Cranks, Won't Start
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Old December 9th, 2010, 12:51 AM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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2000 Mustang V6 -- Cranks, Won't Start


Hey forum new guy here with a fairly new previously enjoyed mustang. I've recently run in to a problem that I thought a local shop (that I trust and have used for some time) had resolved.

Here's what I'm facing:

One night after work I go out to my car and try and start it. The car cranks and cranks and cranks .. no go. I don't do a lot of troubleshooting because it's freezing out this time of year in Michigan.

I catch a ride home that night and come back the next morning. Try and start it still does the same thing but doesn't start. None of the lights are dimming but I'm noticing as I'm trying to start the car the THEFT light is flashing.

I hop on to google utilize some forums this one included to find out what it means. Nothing I can fix of course.

So I have a tow truck come out hook and tow to the shop I use. After diagnosing they swap out the battery it starts no problem.

Well I was pretty surprised considering I thought it was easy to tell when it was the battery (ie: lights dim when starting, etc.) They said the tested the battery and got a lot of errors. I figured it was just because I tried starting the car so many times that it drained it.

Ok so the car's fixed. Woohoo. Now the next day I start it to go to work, start it to come home no problems! That was yesterday. Now today I go out to start it to go to work. Keeps turning over, no start. Oh Great! An underlying problem.

So I go ok .. there's something central. I have a VIPER remote start/alarm system .. maybe that has to do something with it and when the new battery was put in something reset so I try unhooking the battery reconnecting and the car still won't start.

The car won't start even with a jump. Now I'm lost. I don't hear the fuel pump coming on but I don't think I ever have. There's some sort of fuel pump reset switch or something in the trunk I havent tried that yet.

So compression, spark and fuel are the three things a car needs but taking in to account replacing the battery last time fixed the issue what could it be? Any ideas? Thanks!
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Last edited by ComputerGuyNotCarGuy; December 9th, 2010 at 01:41 AM.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 01:19 AM   #2
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-is your THEFT light still blinking while you're trying to start the car?
more then likely if it's a PATS problem your theft light will blink one time then you will catch it blinking six times again that's an indication that the PATS system has been engaged for some reason.

-check the inertia switch located by the driver s side tail light in the trunk make sure the red button is pressed all the way in.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 01:26 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by double0mustang View Post
-is your THEFT light still blinking while you're trying to start the car?
more then likely if it's a PATS problem your theft light will blink one time then you will catch it blinking six times again that's an indication that the PATS system has been engaged for some reason.

-check the inertia switch located by the driver s side tail light in the trunk make sure the red button is pressed all the way in.
- if it was the PATS does it randomly start playing an issue with starting a car like this? it's the same key. also, would changing the batter (or maybe leaving the battery disconnected for some time), resolve that issue?

-interia switch will be the next thing i try.

it's weird this is the same issue i was having before and a new battery resolved the issue but now it's happening again so i'm wondering what the central issue is
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Old December 9th, 2010, 01:36 AM   #4
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do you have the two original keys? if so, try using the other key to start the vehicle and make sure there's nothing blocking the signal between the key and the ignition switch.

you might have a faulty key or a lose wire also try tilting the steering wheel I've read in a few posts that alot of people get a loose wire between the steering column and the ignition switch which is where the PATS transceiver is located at.

-the PATS system will disable the fuel pump and fuel injectors so you will be able to crank it and crank it till you drain the battery but it just won't start.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 01:38 AM   #5
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and about the battery I believe that leaving the battery disconnected for about ten minutes will reset the ECU so you might want to try that since it was your fix at one point.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 01:40 AM   #6
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i would love to comment however i cannot read that script
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Old December 9th, 2010, 01:40 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by double0mustang View Post
and about the battery I believe that leaving the battery disconnected for about ten minutes will reset the ECU so you might want to try that since it was your fix at one point.
Thanks that's what I figured. I'm going to leave the battery unhooked for some time. I'm sure the only reason the other battery tested bad was because I tried starting it so many times. Also, could this in any way be related to my viper system? It has a bypass so am I correct in saying what it bypasses is the PATS?

I checked the intertia switch all good there.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 01:42 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Everett View Post
i would love to comment however i cannot read that script
Sorry! Fixed.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 01:44 AM   #9
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PATS system cannot be bypassed although I did hear from a few people that it can be disabled with a tuner.

you didn't say if your THEFT light is blinking again after the new battery.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 01:45 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by double0mustang View Post
PATS system cannot be bypassed although I did hear from a few people that it can be disabled with a tuner.

you didn't say if your THEFT light is blinking again after the new battery.
Never checked Was just glad it was starting again.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 01:48 AM   #11
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you might want to check that first.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 01:55 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by double0mustang View Post
you might want to check that first.
I hooked the battery back up and tried starting the car. The THEFT light comes on solid red--doesn't flash--When I'm trying to start the car.

The CHECK ENGINE light comes on when the key is turned to the position right before the crank. Not sure if it's supposed to come on or not.

Also when I turn the key right before the crank the battery light comes on solid red as I try and start it it dims a little bit and flickers a little.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 02:01 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by double0mustang View Post
do you have the two original keys? if so, try using the other key to start the vehicle and make sure there's nothing blocking the signal between the key and the ignition switch.

you might have a faulty key or a lose wire also try tilting the steering wheel I've read in a few posts that alot of people get a loose wire between the steering column and the ignition switch which is where the PATS transceiver is located at.

-the PATS system will disable the fuel pump and fuel injectors so you will be able to crank it and crank it till you drain the battery but it just won't start.
Only have one key at the moment unfortunately.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 02:03 AM   #14
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-ok if you have a volt meter check the voltage in the battery sounds like you have a weak battery.
-make sure you check all the fuses in the battery junction box
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Old December 9th, 2010, 02:05 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by double0mustang View Post
-ok if you have a volt meter check the voltage in the battery sounds like you have a weak battery.
-make sure you check all the fuses in the battery junction box
yeah it's getting weak because I keep trying to start it i'll have to check the fuses when it's light out--but I don't know what I'm looking for. remember this is a brand new battery that was just replaced. a jump wouldn't even start it.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 02:16 AM   #16
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look disconnect the battery and if you have a battery charger hook it up and leave it over night..

tomorrow when you get a chance hook up the battery, the ECU should reset on it's own by then and if the car doesn't start then locate your battery junction box and go through ALL your fuses pull out one by one
make sure none of them are blown.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 02:17 AM   #17
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So I guess this is the question: what causes a mustang to replicate the same issue prior to replacing the battery less than 48 hours after replacing the battery which fixed the problem? Maybe I'll have to find out what the hell this CHECK ENGINE light is saying.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 02:19 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by double0mustang View Post
look disconnect the battery and if you have a battery charger hook it up and leave it over night..

tomorrow when you get a chance hook up the battery, the ECU should reset on it's own by then and if the car doesn't start then locate your battery junction box and go through ALL your fuses pull out one by one
make sure none of them are blown.

Unfortunately no battery charger however neighbor has a battery tester I'll borrow it from him. I'll leave it unhooked for the night.

I'll try starting it tomorrow and follow your instructions.

Thanks for the ideas. I have to start getting in to my car myself not only to save money but to know it's being done right.
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Old December 9th, 2010, 02:25 AM   #19
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Have you checked the fuses. Check the fuses before you start doing compression and stuff. Easy stuff first. Could also be a bad relay. It sounds like an intermittent electrical problem. I also think it could be your alarm. Who installed it? You or someone else.

Also, make sure that you have the right fuses in the spots.

Are the battery terminals corroded?
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Old December 9th, 2010, 02:26 AM   #20
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yup, make sure you pull the big Maxi fuses out, sometimes they're hard to tell if they're blown or not just by looking at them.

I doubt it's a PATS problem since you said you had a solid THEFT light.

Make sure your battery is fully charged as you can damage something else
if you keep trying to crank it while the battery is low.
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