[Bram-Stangg]

so i did it, but im not sure about the hoses.
i did connect all, and started the car and it runs great, drives great, (what a sound)
but im just not sure so can anyone please confirm what i did?
also i did notice the hood hitting the elbow that sits before the throttlebody
(the one that comes from the cai) bit strange because i did order the set with a angeled spacer
btw the elbow has to go direct on tb? because in the picture it wont.

but anyway, if you look at the pic, i did colored the spots that i did connect.
btw, its not my car.. i did not make photos yet, so i borrow this one


/\
red= goes from valvecover passenger side to the intake tube.
blue= ontop windstar to a hose i found passenger side, dont rly know what it was but it had the same size..
green= goes from driver side valvecover to little t, from t to windstar direct above, and to the red egr.(egr not shown on pic)
orange= goes from fuel rail to t, from t to windstar, and to similair size tube on passenger side.

so i dont know this is correct
also i did not understand the part about the egr and tubing..
this is what is in the manual;

connect the top egr sensor barb to the egr valve using the short stock hard plastic
vacuum line removed from the fuel regulator. connect the lower barb on the egr sensor to
the 3/16 tee on the pcv line using the long red hard plastic line used for the stock egr setup.
you will need to cut off the green line from the rubber end.

well, in my case, old situation, the valve is connect to the sensor with a little green tube,
and the red one goes in the intake manifold.
so i let the green one sit there like it was, and put the red with the pcv into the windstar manifold.

anyway, i hope its clearly, if not ask away
pics will come this weekend.

thanks!, regards Bram

[Mr. Red Pony]

Looks correct to me.

As for the elbow, loosen it at the TB, then push the pipe down a bit, and while holding it down, tighten it back up.

[Bram-Stangg]

thanks!
gonna try that

[Nito2v]

For someone of little experience, do you think it's a doable job or should I get help. I'm thinking of getting this. Also, I heard the EGR needs to be calibrated. Is this true before I can drive it - or is it a bolt on and go?

[winnie51189]

Originally Posted by Bram-Stangg so i did it, but im not sure about the hoses. i did connect all, and started the car and it runs great, drives great, (what a sound) but im just not sure so can anyone please confirm what i did? also i did notice the hood hitting the elbow that sits before the throttlebody (the one that comes from the cai) bit strange because i did order the set with a angeled spacer btw the elbow has to go direct on tb? because in the picture it wont. but anyway, if you look at the pic, i did colored the spots that i did connect. btw, its not my car.. i did not make photos yet, so i borrow this one /\ red= goes from valvecover passenger side to the intake tube. blue= ontop windstar to a hose i found passenger side, dont rly know what it was but it had the same size.. green= goes from driver side valvecover to little t, from t to windstar direct above, and to the red egr.(egr not shown on pic) orange= goes from fuel rail to t, from t to windstar, and to similair size tube on passenger side. so i dont know this is correct also i did not understand the part about the egr and tubing.. this is what is in the manual; connect the top egr sensor barb to the egr valve using the short stock hard plastic vacuum line removed from the fuel regulator. connect the lower barb on the egr sensor to the 3/16 tee on the pcv line using the long red hard plastic line used for the stock egr setup. you will need to cut off the green line from the rubber end. well, in my case, old situation, the valve is connect to the sensor with a little green tube, and the red one goes in the intake manifold. so i let the green one sit there like it was, and put the red with the pcv into the windstar manifold. anyway, i hope its clearly, if not ask away pics will come this weekend. thanks!, regards Bram

I thought that car looked familiar(because it's mine), a few changes since I did this swap. I posted up close up pics in a thread asking about how to route all the hoses and such in a previous thread. IDK where it is but it's out there somewhere, just try searching for it a little.
Also as for the EGR not being pictured that's because I deleted it entirely.

[Bram-Stangg]

Originally Posted by Ur Panic For someone of little experience, do you think it's a doable job or should I get help. I'm thinking of getting this. Also, I heard the EGR needs to be calibrated. Is this true before I can drive it - or is it a bolt on and go?

well i dont have that much experience, and i did it too
about the egr, i dont know. i reconnect the battery and it started directly.
perfect idle and drives good. so dont think it has to be calibrated..

Originally Posted by winnie51189 I thought that car looked familiar(because it's mine), a few changes since I did this swap. I posted up close up pics in a thread asking about how to route all the hoses and such in a previous thread. IDK where it is but it's out there somewhere, just try searching for it a little. Also as for the EGR not being pictured that's because I deleted it entirely.

i noticed about the egr delete, i didnt because i need it for emission test here but i can put it off with my tuner anyway.
your photo was most clearly and nice

[Nito2v]

What does the EGR do exactly? And how do I delete/calibrate it? I'm going to need to know come installation I don't want to mess with emission tests either haha

[Mr. Red Pony]

Bolt and go. Look on the net. I would explain. But I'm on my phone...

[SlowSix]

Damn I really need to get a windstar.

[Therealtater]

Originally Posted by Ur Panic What does the EGR do exactly? And how do I delete/calibrate it? I'm going to need to know come installation I don't want to mess with emission tests either haha

EGR stands for exhaust gas recirculation, basically it takes your exhaust gas and runs it back through the combustion cycle for a more complete fuel burn

[Mr. Red Pony]

To cool down combustion chamber to keep from producing nox.

[Nito2v]

Thanks Red Pony.

That windstar looks great in there, really changes the engine bay in terms of style. I'll just need to go to the Auto shop and pick up some tools before I order this thing. How's it feel?

[Bram-Stangg]

oke now its fucked up:O
i wanted to change the elbow, so i started it but the needles didnt work for like 3 seconds, then it runs very poor and eventually the engine shuts down i checked al the hoses but there still connected and solid.
so i tried with my tuner for engine codes, but it only says p1000? something with the obd :S

also when i drive and im going to shift, put it in neutral, or hitting the clutch it sometimes stays on like between 2k, 3k rev and hearing a light psssj

please help:O

[SlowSix]

Check all your hoses and look for vac leaks. Sounds like an IAC problem maybe though.

[Bram-Stangg]

well the hoses are tight and connected like i posted.. another way to check vac leaks?
im gonna clean the iac in the weekend then. i suppose it cant hurt anyway

thanks

[SlowSix]

Btw, p1000 code is an emissions readiness test incomplete code. Means you need to complete a drive cycle.

[Bram-Stangg]

hmm but do you think its in connection with my problem?

maybe something stupid, but i noticed with the build, that on the windstarintake the iac have round holes, but the old one (for reuse) to bold it on have long ovals. also the gasket have round holes. so maybe i should screw it up a bit or so?

[SlowSix]

Here is how to complete a drive cycle.

SECTION 303-13: Evaporative Emissions 2002 Mustang Workshop Manual
GENERAL PROCEDURES Procedure revision date: 07/25/2001

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Evaporative Emission Repair Verification Drive Cycle

Special Tool(s) Worldwide Diagnostic System (WDS)


Vehicle Communication Module (VCM) with appropriate adapters, or equivalent diagnostic tool


Drive Cycle Recommendations


NOTE: The following procedure is designed to execute and complete the evaporative emission repair verification drive cycle and to clear the Ford P1000, inspection and maintenance (I/M) readiness code. When the ambient air temperature is below 4.4°C (40°F) or above 37.8°C (100°F), or the altitude is above 2,438 meters (8,000 feet), the EVAP monitor will not run. If the P1000 must be cleared in these conditions, the powertrain control module (PCM) must detect them once (twice on some applications) before the EVAP monitor can be bypassed and the P1000 cleared. The EVAP bypassing procedure is described in the following drive cycle.

Most OBD II monitors will complete more readily using a steady foot driving style during cruise or acceleration modes. Operating the throttle in a smooth fashion will minimize the time necessary for monitor completion.
Fuel tank level should be between one-half and three-quarters full with three-quarters full being the most desirable.
The evaporative monitor can only operate during the first 30 minutes of engine operation. When executing the procedure for this monitor, stay in part throttle mode and drive in a smooth fashion to minimize fuel slosh.
Drive Cycle Preparation


NOTE: For best results, follow each of the following steps as accurately as possible.

NOTE: This step bypasses the engine soak timer and resets OBD II monitor status.

Install the diagnostic tool. Turn the key ON with the engine OFF. Cycle the key off, then on. Select the appropriate vehicle and engine qualifier. Clear all diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) and carry out a PCM reset.
Begin to monitor the following PIDs: ECT, EVAPDC, FLI (if available) and TP MODE. Press Diagnostic Data Link, PCM, PID/Data monitor and record, press trigger to select each PID, then start.
Start the engine without returning the key to the OFF position.
Preparation for Monitor Entry


WARNING: Strict observance of posted speed limits and attention to driving conditions are mandatory when proceeding through the following drive cycle.

NOTE: This step allows engine warm-up and provides intake air temperature (IAT) input to the PCM.

Idle the vehicle for 15 seconds. Drive at 64 km/h (40 mph) until the ECT is at least 76.7°C (170°F).
Is IAT above 4.4°C (40°F) and below 37.8°C (100°F)? If not, continue with the following steps but note that the EVAP Monitor Bypass portion of the drive cycle (Step 13) will be required to bypass the EVAP monitor and clear the P1000.
NOTE: This step executes the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) monitor.

Cruise at 64 km/h (40 mph) for 60 seconds.
NOTE: This executes the EVAP monitor if IAT is above 4.4°C (40°F) and below 37.8°C (100°F).

NOTE: To initiate the monitor, TP MODE should equal PT, EVAPDC must be greater than 75%, and FLI must be between 15 and 85%.

NOTE: Avoid sharp turns and hills.

Cruise at 72 to 104 km/h (45 to 65 mph) for 10 minutes.
NOTE: This step executes the ISC portion of the Secondary Air/CCM.

Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with the transmission in DRIVE (for automatic transmission) or NEUTRAL (for manual transmission) for two minutes.
Pending Code and EVAP Monitor Bypass Check


NOTE: This determines if a pending code is preventing the clearing of P1000.

NOTE: If the EVAP monitor is not complete and IAT was below 4.4°C (40°F) or above 37.8°C (100°F) temperature range in Step 8, or the altitude is above 2,438 meters (8,000 feet), the EVAP Monitor Bypass (Step 13) must be carried out.

Using the diagnostic tool, check for pending codes. Conduct normal repair procedures for any pending code concerns. Rerun any incomplete monitor.
EVAP Monitor Bypass


NOTE: This allows the bypass counter to increment to two.

NOTE: Do not repeat Step 4.

Park the vehicle for a minimum of eight hours. Repeat Steps 5 through 12.

I'm not sure about the iac thing, but your car stalling out sounds like an iac problem.

[Bram-Stangg]

thanks! gonna follow them steps

[Mr. Red Pony]

Did you get a 65mm TB?