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#1 |
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Regular
2000 Mustang v6
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 227
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headers
so.
i have a pretty nice crack/leak in the exhaust manifold that sounds horrible/ smell up my interior when im idling or have the heat on. Ive just been putting off fixing it but ive had enough. so could weld the gap and fix the problem, or just buy a nice set of headers. im leaning toward the headers. id like to get something that will just fit in the same area as the stock exhaust manifold to make installation as easy as possible. i would just weld it but i feel like if i got it out i might as well replace it. i guess i could just replace one side with a stock manifold as well. What do you guys think would be the best route? Any cheap/quality headers you would recomend? are long tubes worth it? i do have true duals |
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#2 |
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Dancing Naked In The Rain
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ozark, MO
Posts: 15,719
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Long tubes or weld it unless you can find a cheap oem manifold to replace the cracked one. I had one of my exhaust manifolds welded because of a crack and I haven't had any issues with it in over a year.
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#3 |
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Regular
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 380
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just grab some shorty headers that way you can keep your down pipe and save some money, or just find a manifold from a junk yard.
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#4 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 Nitrous Injected V6
12's?
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Chester County, PA
Posts: 2,414
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Its your passenger side header that's cracked, ac dips on it and overtime it cracks. If your thinking bout upgrading headers shorty yields almost no gains to our cars(but good sugguestion aktion) so if your going aftermarket get mac longtubes. I think they are worth it and love the way that are on my car but you will need to get a catted mid pipe or remove your cats. If you can install it yourself or with friends I would say go for it otherwise a shop might charge a pretty penny.
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![]() Project Red Magic -Full Intake, Full Exhuast,Geared, Tune, Sprayed, Dropped- -18 Inch Hypercoated Saleens wrapped in Nittos- |
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#5 |
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Resident badass
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Longtubes of weld. Just like mcqueen said. If you want to save, just don't buy headers. If you really want headers, get long tubes. Steer clear of shorties unless you are fabing turbo hearers with them.
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![]() 271rwhp N/A V6 ![]() The Name is Danny. I'm a GM Technician. Suck it. |
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#6 |
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Resident badass
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Hit up rockauto.com for a manifold. I think I saw them for about $50
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![]() 271rwhp N/A V6 ![]() The Name is Danny. I'm a GM Technician. Suck it. |
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#7 | |
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Dancing Naked In The Rain
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ozark, MO
Posts: 15,719
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#8 |
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Resident badass
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And absolutely amazing customer service.
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![]() 271rwhp N/A V6 ![]() The Name is Danny. I'm a GM Technician. Suck it. |
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#9 |
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Regular
2000 Mustang v6
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 227
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hmmmm... i guess ill just either weld it or get a new manifold. im really not sure what im gonna wanna do. probly wont know till i take it out
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#10 |
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I'm doing it wrong
04 Grand Cherokee
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: South Eastern, Mass
Posts: 5,211
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Was the crack on the manifold itself? Or in the usual A/C drip area at the flange? Before I went and bought a new manifold for my drivers side (had a 1.5" crack in it) I went to a shop first to get it welded but they told me you can't weld them because it wont last. They also said the only way to do it right is to weld it from the inside. How that would work idk but that was what I was told by multiple shops.
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Formerly known as Demon_54 "I feel the same way about disco as I do about herpes." - Hunter S. Thompson
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#11 |
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Regular
2000 Mustang v6
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 227
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^^ sounds like our cracks could be identical lol. what a bummer. i think ill just order a new one. i looks like itll be $70-$80
i think im gonna do a little price shoppin first |
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#12 |
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Resident badass
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About 80 of you manifd crack are in 1 of 2 spots. I drew the short straw and got both cracks.. Lol
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![]() 271rwhp N/A V6 ![]() The Name is Danny. I'm a GM Technician. Suck it. |
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#13 |
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Regular
2000 Mustang v6
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 227
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ouch, where is the other common place for the cracks. I always have trouble finding it at first, but once i see it, i cant miss it. i could have both 2
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#14 |
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Resident badass
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One is the pass flange and the other is the driver side, last cylinder. Wher the primary goes into the collector, the weld brakes.
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![]() 271rwhp N/A V6 ![]() The Name is Danny. I'm a GM Technician. Suck it. |
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#15 |
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Regular
2000 Mustang v6
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 227
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so it looks like i can can get one from autozone for $104 + plus tax and it come with the gasket and have it here tomorow so i can put it in on sunday before the week starts.
or Order from rockauto it come to $90 and comes with the 1 Manifold Gasket, 2 Studs, 2 Lock Nuts, 2 Washers can i use the old studs? where do the studs go? any experience with which is more quality? any hints on the installation? also on rock auto there is the option for a dorman part and an atp part ( both oem replacement). But the atp part looks like what is on my car and the dorman doesnt. Im not sure if this is just how the picture is taken of if it really isnt the same Last edited by rafter40; March 5th, 2011 at 11:54 AM. |
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#16 |
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[8MINUS2]
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Driver side cracking isn't common.
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![]() Hi, You can call me Kyle Random ESG fact: Had a prochamber on his v6 before it was popular. WTB: v6 BBK valve covers |
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