[Dreamer]

Hey guys, i have an 09 v6 that jus hit 50k. I flushed the engine and changed all fluids. What should I be focusing on that might need maintenance? I want to upgrade my brakes soon because I don't like the stopping power of the stock brakes, but everything runs so smooth on my car im worried if i change one thing it'll cause a chain reaction lol.

But just to know, what maintenance should I be looking at for a 50+k miles v6?

[Matt.]

You should be set. A new Air filter wouldn't be bad and tires if you need um

And you should visit this site they have good items for maintenance
Mustang Parts & Performance - American Muscle

[Scholl]

Replace your air filter and bakes wouldnt be a bad idea(especially if they are factory original)

[Dreamer]

Air filter was replaced the week I bought the car (nov 2009) I forgot about that one. I remember it was a pain in the ass for no reason to lift up that cover on the passengers side. I even quit and came back 3 days later and hulk lifted it for some reason it was stuck but I did change the airfilter.

The brakes im sure are factory stock. Any suggestions to a certain upgrade pack for the brakes?

Thanks!

[Matt.]

Originally Posted by Dreamer Air filter was replaced the week I bought the car (nov 2009) I forgot about that one. I remember it was a pain in the ass for no reason to lift up that cover on the passengers side. I even quit and came back 3 days later and hulk lifted it for some reason it was stuck but I did change the airfilter. The brakes im sure are factory stock. Any suggestions to a certain upgrade pack for the brakes? Thanks!

I hear hawks are nice pads but I have no knowledge about brake pads to be honest
2005-2010 Ford Mustang Brakes at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

[Dreamer]

What does upgrading pads alone do versus upgrading rotors instead?
I know nothing about brakes myself either Id like to learn a lil though.

[Matt.]

Originally Posted by Dreamer What does upgrading pads alone do versus upgrading rotors instead? I know nothing about brakes myself either Id like to learn a lil though.

Better Rotors will give you more bite as well resist heating up. Pads give you bite

[jk_aktion]

+1 on hawks, new oem rotors will be fine, no need to go extreme. also re-greese all greese fittings under the car via joints, bushings, etc..

[Dreamer]

Originally Posted by Matt. Better Rotors will give you more bite as well resist heating up. Pads give you bite

Thanks!

Originally Posted by jk_aktion +1 on hawks, new oem rotors will be fine, no need to go extreme. also re-greese all greese fittings under the car via joints, bushings, etc..

I kind of want the added stopping power for safety. Living in NY its too often I find myself cruising down a local street going avrg. speed to have some idiot pull out of his driveway or even run a red light trying to beat a yellow and I have to slam on my brakes to avoid making a "trashed my stang" thread lol. One day I might wanna go FI also ^_^ i'll need better brakes for that too wont I?

[jk_aktion]

lol, i know what's like, i'm in the city. crazy cab drivers!!! well to be honest there is no need for high performance rotors for just driving around, oem replacements will work just fine. i run oem style rotors for dd and on the road course w/hawks pads. just upgrade to new rotors and performance pads, grab a set of steel braided lines to keep the pressure to the calipers and bleed out the old brake fluid w/some good fluid. you'll be good to go for stopping. drilled/slotted tend to crack over time, best used only for racing and then trashed before next race events.

[Dreamer]

yeah especially these fukin cab drivers. Last night 4 cab drivers on the SAME BLOCK all tried to swing into my lane without turn signals. I was pissed.... and the pot holes don't bring my blood pressure down either LOL.

Thank you for the advice! I will do just that. How much would a shop charge to bleed the lines and swap them for steel braided ones?

[jk_aktion]

that's to easy broski, you can do that yourself. find a set online, summit, jegs, etc.. take the cap off of the master cylinder and keep pressing the brakes until all fluid is pushed out, i advise to get something under the hanging brake lines to catch the fluid. or you'll be cleaning one hell of a mess. and all you have to do is remove the stock rubber lines from calipers to where it meets the hard lines, only about a foot long of hose. then install the steel lines and bolt everything back up and bleed your brakes, always start from the furthest line away from the master cylinder, via pass rear, next dr rear, then pass front, finally dr front.

step 1: grab a friend for help
step 2: make sure all lines are connected
step 3: fill the master cylinder with fluid, leave cap off
step 4: go to pass rear caliper, open the release valve fitting, should have a rubber cap covering it, remove cap
step 5: have friend push then hold brake pedal down, the tighten valve.
step 6: have friend pump brakes until firm, keep pressure as in braking to stop hard, then open valve again. he should feel the brake pedal go to the floor, hold pedal down and close valve. continue until all air comes out of line, nothing but fluid should come out then it is good to go.
step 7: continue to the next brake and re-follow steps.

note: always keep fluid in the master cylinder while bleeding the sytem, continue to check and add fluid when needed.

pic: this is the rubber hose to be replaced w/steel braided lines, simple hose fitting at the top to disconnect and from the calipers:

[Dreamer]

Cool I'll see if my uncle can help. He knows about cars, sadly I do not lol. Thanks!

[jk_aktion]

yeah no problem, check those grease joints under the car as i stated above before, especially being in the northeast.