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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 41
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Chattering Clutch
Hey guys.
My questions never end. ![]() My clutch, (when engaged (pedal released)) chatters. Just a little squeaky sound, about 4 chirps per second. What the hell is that?? I dont know if it does it in first, second, or whatever. Only noticed it in N, prolly because its not moving, and not loud. I might put the back on jacks and see if I can here it. |
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#2 |
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Dancing Naked In The Rain
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ozark, MO
Posts: 15,719
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Most likely cause is the throwout bearing. If your clutch is old, this is a great chance to replace the whole thing.
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#3 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 41
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Is it freaking rediculous to replace it?
It dont think that it is too old, I think its 2 to 3 years old maybe. How can i check the bearing? |
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#4 |
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Dancing Naked In The Rain
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ozark, MO
Posts: 15,719
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I don't think it would be overly difficult to replace but you're going to have to remove the driveshaft and drop the transmission to get at it. Here's an install guide for Spec clutches so you can get an idea of what sort of work is involved: How To Install A Spec Mustang Clutch - Installation Instructions at AmericanMuscle.com
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#5 |
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MM's Official Lucifer
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Not something I'd undertake with little to no mechanical knowledge, but it's not overly difficult.
It does sound like the ToB however. Next time you are sitting in the car in neutral, just hold your foot on the clutch pedal, if the noise stops when you press on the pedal, my money is on the ToB.
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"Fast she goes...in the city of Overdose"
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#6 |
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Enthusiast
1999 Mustang V6
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 654
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its the throwout bearing. ive been suffering from a squeeky TOB for about 6 months now lol. its a bitch to replace. you have to pull the transmission out just to get to it being that its in the clutch assembly.
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#7 |
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Regular
1997 Mustang v6 manual
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 91
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If you just want to replace the throw out bearing it's not that complicated.
You'd first unbolt your exhaust (don't really have to pull it out from under the car) and unbolt the shifter from inside the car. Then unbolt the drive shaft, remove the electrical connectors from the transmission, and then unbolt the trans from the bell housing. After that just put the jack under the trans so it doesn't fall (put it near the back, before it dips where the tail shaft is), remove the cross member (don't forget to unbolt it from the trans as well), then slide the trans back a little bit. It should just slide out with a good few wiggles from the tail shaft. After that you can just remove the dust cover from the bell housing, unhook the clutch cable (just slides off if you push the clutch fork forward) and then pull the clutch fork out. The throw out bearing is inside the clutch fork. Take it out and give it a good spin. A good throw out bearing won't look chewed up and won't spin effortlessly, but will be a smooth spin (no noise). A bad TOB will spin a lot easier and you'll hear it (nothing dramatic, just two surfaces rubbing against each other). From there you can shin a flash light inside and see how some of the other stuff looks. If you want to do the whole thing (I would, if not you'll probably be doing this all again soon) then remove the exhaust, drop the trans completely, remove the clutch cable, and then unbolt the bell housing and starter to get to the rest (the starter part will suck with L/T headers). Just be careful with the transmission if you're a stranger to a gym. It's not overly heavy but if you're on your back it'll be a real pain (and kill your wrists if you're not directly underneath it). I just did this myself. It's a real PITA and if it's your first time I'd get ready to have the car sitting for a good week if you're doing it on jack stands and don't have a lot of spare time. Also as a side note: DO NOT drain the trans fluid until you have the drive shaft unbolted, just wait until you do and then drain it before you actually slide it out of the trans (if it was like mine it'll need a good couple whacks from a hammer for it to come free anyways). I did that and had to refill with fresh fluid just to take it to a shop so I could get it in the air and remove those extremely tight retaining bolts on the drive shaft. Lock-tight + 13 years of rust and corrosion made them impossible to remove without any good leverage and basic tools (came off irritatingly easy though once I had it in the air and was able to stand up). |
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