[Juggalo_X]

Originally Posted by stephen At 107K....I get a check engine light.....I take it Autozone and they read it and it says Misfire in 6. @#$@ I take it home and do a compression test. It reads 80/120/150/180 for 1-4....5 reads 80/100/120/150....6 did not read at all. Interesting. Sounds like a good call to replace the engine. Hole in a piston maybe? My only experience with this engine was doing a valve job on my wife's 99 Mustang V6. The problem was excessive pinging and power loss. What I found was that #6 and #3 had major carbon buildup on top of the pistons and in #3 the plug was damaged from preignition. I scraped all the carbon out and reinstalled the rebuilt heads plus cleaned fuel injectors and it runs like new again. So I think the problem in these engines with #3 and #6 cylinders is due to preignition. I since found an article on the internet that says it has to do with the baffle design on the left valve cover for the PCV system which allows too much oil into the intake. That's why I suggested using the valve covers off the 02 engine. They are supposed to be of an improved design.

what year was this improvement made? it could just as easily be fixed with an oil trap on the pcv line they do sell them for our cars.

[Juggalo_X]

read this thread its a very good idea to see if you have the problem apparently the new valve cover design started in 2001 so im goo http://www.3.8mustang.com/forum/arch...hp/t-7846.html

[elmills]

When I first had this problem at 40K miles, Ford replaced the block and (I think) the valve covers. This happened in 2001, so I am pretty sure I have the covers with the modified baffle http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/pcv_filter.htm I was getting spark knock in plug #3 as well.

I can tell you that #6 spark plug was big time built up up with carbon. After changing plugs and wires and driving half a mile #6 plug looked bad again. The other plugs looked new.

Thanks Stephen, I definitely think we are on to something here.

[Juggalo_X]

Originally Posted by elmills When I first had this problem at 40K miles, Ford replaced the block and (I think) the valve covers. This happened in 2001, so I am pretty sure I have the covers with the modified baffle http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/pcv_filter.htm I was getting spark knock in plug #3 as well. I can tell you that #6 spark plug was big time built up up with carbon. After changing plugs and wires and driving half a mile #6 plug looked bad again. The other plugs looked new. Thanks Stephen, I definitely think we are on to something here.

you could have abnormal wear on the 6th cyl. or the valve stem on the 6th so u would be getting blow by and burning oil. in conjunction with the shitty pvc defect id say thats the culprit ive been reading up and this definitely looks like the issue. use the 01 valve covers and it wouldn't hurt to get the PCV filter i put on on my escourt cuz it was blowing oil from the crank case into the intake and i think i just may put on on my stang too now that ive been reading all this shit.

[stephen]

This is the article I found on the valve cover problem.

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/pcv_filter.htm

[elmills]

UPDATE!!!

Okay, here's what I've done....

I took the salvaged 02 engine apart except the head removal. It is a beautiful engine...looks brand new inside (55k miles)

I've taken everything off of my 99 engine I can while it's still in the car.

I've got my 99 lower intake cleaned and ready for the 02 block (PCM incompatibility issue with the 02 lower intake)

I'm at the point to take the 99 engine out.

I've taken all 5 transmission bolts out, taken the starter off (2 bolts), removed the 4 flywheel nuts, disconnected exhaust (4 nuts), of course removed all lines from the engine.

The engine is completely clear in the engine compartment. It appears to be completely clear at the the tranny. IT WON'T SEPARATE!!!

I've twisted, tugged, pried, I've even been able to slip a screwdriver into the top of the tranny where it meets the engine and it breaks apart just a little, but still no luck getting the engine out.

WHAT AM I MISSING? HELP PLEASE.

[Juggalo_X]

Originally Posted by elmills UPDATE!!! Okay, here's what I've done.... I took the salvaged 02 engine apart except the head removal. It is a beautiful engine...looks brand new inside (55k miles) I've taken everything off of my 99 engine I can while it's still in the car. I've got my 99 lower intake cleaned and ready for the 02 block (PCM incompatibility issue with the 02 lower intake) I'm at the point to take the 99 engine out. I've taken all 5 transmission bolts out, taken the starter off (2 bolts), removed the 4 flywheel nuts, disconnected exhaust (4 nuts), of course removed all lines from the engine. The engine is completely clear in the engine compartment. It appears to be completely clear at the the tranny. IT WON'T SEPARATE!!! I've twisted, tugged, pried, I've even been able to slip a screwdriver into the top of the tranny where it meets the engine and it breaks apart just a little, but still no luck getting the engine out. WHAT AM I MISSING? HELP PLEASE.

u got the motor mount bolts right? lol

[Juggalo_X]

also is this an auto or manual if so u need to remove the Torque converter to drive plate bolts. and also make sure the torque converter dont slide out of the tranny when ur pulling the engine u want to keep it in there, dont let it fall and make sure u have support on the transmission so it dont sag and bind as u try to remove then engine. cuz the tranny is held up partially by the engine.

[elmills]

Oh yeah, the 2 big motor mount nuts were removed. Inside the engine compartment, the engine is completely clear. I can move it all around, but the tranny moves with it.

It's an auto. I've got a jack under the tranny to keep it supported. It is a mystery. I'm going to look at some more this weekend.

Should the engine just pop off when all bolts and nuts are removed, or do I have to pry the engine from the tranny?

[Juggalo_X]

Originally Posted by elmills Oh yeah, the 2 big motor mount nuts were removed. Inside the engine compartment, the engine is completely clear. I can move it all around, but the tranny moves with it. It's an auto. I've got a jack under the tranny to keep it supported. It is a mystery. I'm going to look at some more this weekend. Should the engine just pop off when all bolts and nuts are removed, or do I have to pry the engine from the tranny?

first off make sure u removed the TQ converter to drive plate bolts then the motor has to move forwards away from the tranny but make sure the converter stays in the tranny u cant just pull the motor straight up, you should also have your hood removed and your rad removes just in case so u dont poke a hole in it.

[elmills]

Are you talking about the 4 nuts that are removed by removing a rectangular plastic access cover?

They are located behind the big gear. It has holes in it to allow you to take the nuts off. You have to turn the engine over until a new nut is visible. Is this what you are talking about? Sorry I'm a novice. I was following the manual.

I'm hoping I don't have to take the hood off. I've taken everything off the front of the engine and I should be able to go forward a foot or so, before going up and out.

[stephen]

I'm at the point to take the 99 engine out.

I've taken all 5 transmission bolts out, taken the starter off (2 bolts), removed the 4 flywheel nuts, disconnected exhaust (4 nuts), of course removed all lines from the engine.

The engine is completely clear in the engine compartment. It appears to be completely clear at the the tranny. IT WON'T SEPARATE!!!

I've twisted, tugged, pried, I've even been able to slip a screwdriver into the top of the tranny where it meets the engine and it breaks apart just a little, but still no luck getting the engine out.

WHAT AM I MISSING? HELP PLEASE.[/quote]

I believe by flywheel nuts you mean flex plate to torque converter nuts.

The torque converter should now be free from the flexplate. The torque converter probably has a pilot that goes into the back of the crankshaft. It is important to maintain reasonable engine to trans alignment, otherwise it could bind up there.

The trans I believe mounts on dowels and you may have to pry a little to separate it. Check carefully all around the bell housing to be sure you haven't missed a bolt. After that a little gentle prying should separate it, but it shouldn't take any significant force. If it does there must be a bolt you have missed. The engine should then move forward and pretty much come straight up.

[elmills]

In the manual (for transmission removal), it says to pop off the round plastic access plate and mark the gear and the transmission with a marker to insure proper balance when re-installing the tranny.

With a new engine and no marks, will I have a problem with balance?

[stephen]

Originally Posted by elmills In the manual (for transmission removal), it says to pop off the round plastic access plate and mark the gear and the transmission with a marker to insure proper balance when re-installing the tranny. With a new engine and no marks, will I have a problem with balance?

I think this is referring to marking the position of the torque converter with respect to the flex plate. It's probably a good idea, but I doubt it's at all critical.

[elmills]

I could mark it, but with a new engine going in, it wouldn't do any good, right? The new engine would not have the corresponding mark.

[Juggalo_X]

Originally Posted by elmills I could mark it, but with a new engine going in, it wouldn't do any good, right? The new engine would not have the corresponding mark.

your correct

[Onemanzu]

you could pull the whole assymbly out and match the tranny and the engine outside of the car might be a bit easier ... plus it would be easier to work on ... just get a dad or friend or something to help you do this

[stephen]

I've taken all 5 transmission bolts out, taken the starter off (2 bolts), removed the 4 flywheel nuts, disconnected exhaust (4 nuts), of course removed all lines from the engine.

I looked at the shop manual last night. It appears there are 8 engine to transmission bolts. 5 are referred two as upper bell housing bolts and the remaining 3 are at the bottom of the bell housing. Take a look at the upper bell housing for additional bolts. These are near the firewall and it will help to remove the upper intake manifold to get to them.

The manual is confusing because it says to remove the upper bell housing bolts and shows a picture of two bolts but in the instructions to reinstall the engine it says there are 5 and the transmission section shows additional bolts.

[elmills]

Wow! 8?

My Haynes only shows 4 main 2-1/2" bolts, but I found #5 an inch or two above the starter. My upper and lower intakes are off already and I did take the 2 bolts out at the top of the tranny (right behind the lower intake).

I did find a brass bolt that looked like a nut with a tube running through the middle. (kind of like a vacuum hose mount). It was smaller in diameter but about 2-1/2" long, just like the others. I guess this must've been #6 eng-to-tran bolt.

I'm guessing there are two left. Probably on the drivers side on the side of the tranny bell housing.

I have the new engine up on a stand right now, so my next step is to check the bolt holes on the new engine thoroughly.

The Haynes manual is frustrating. The section for engine removal is just a few pages that basically tells you to buy a box of clear baggies and get an engine lift.

So I am depending on the transmission removal section and my friend who has restored many cars to help. He won't even look at the book.

Why can't the Haynes manual show sizes of bolt heads in it?

I promise to do a big write-up on this engine swap, to possibly help others simply swap engines. I'm not modding or putting a bigger engine in, I'm just trying to swap blocks to repair my 3.8l Mustang and get out of a 3.8l Minivan.

[Juggalo_X]

Originally Posted by elmills Wow! 8? My Haynes only shows 4 main 2-1/2" bolts, but I found #5 an inch or two above the starter. My upper and lower intakes are off already and I did take the 2 bolts out at the top of the tranny (right behind the lower intake). I did find a brass bolt that looked like a nut with a tube running through the middle. (kind of like a vacuum hose mount). It was smaller in diameter but about 2-1/2" long, just like the others. I guess this must've been #6 eng-to-tran bolt. I'm guessing there are two left. Probably on the drivers side on the side of the tranny bell housing. I have the new engine up on a stand right now, so my next step is to check the bolt holes on the new engine thoroughly. The Haynes manual is frustrating. The section for engine removal is just a few pages that basically tells you to buy a box of clear baggies and get an engine lift. So I am depending on the transmission removal section and my friend who has restored many cars to help. He won't even look at the book. Why can't the Haynes manual show sizes of bolt heads in it? I promise to do a big write-up on this engine swap, to possibly help others simply swap engines. I'm not modding or putting a bigger engine in, I'm just trying to swap blocks to repair my 3.8l Mustang and get out of a 3.8l Minivan.

do ur self a big favor and go to www.fordcds.com and download fords CD service manual for your year of car. Much betterthen a $10 Haynes manual