Brake Upgrade Parts+Install

SON1C · June 5th, 2011, 01:25 PM

really rotor and pad replacement/upgrade don't think i should upgrade calipers unless i need to?

what rotor and pad combo should i go with? i was thinking that i would go with the best cheap set i could find on ebay?

I want to install them myself however, i'm never done this and tbh i'm not that good

all advice/suggestions welcome and appreciated

SON1C · June 5th, 2011, 01:27 PM

Mustang GT V6 99 00 01 02 03 04 Brake Rotors and Pads F | eBay

Performance Brake Rotors and Ceramic Pads Front & Rear | eBay

this one seems like the best bang for your buck? but i hope you get more than you pay for?

ELINE PERFORMANCE Brake Rotors and Pads (FRONT PACKAGE) | eBay

[ FRONT + REAR] Factory Replacement Brake Rotors + Pads - eBay (item 260791803082 end time Jun-26-11 18:17:45 PDT)

mcqueen · June 5th, 2011, 03:20 PM

A set of slotted rotors (zinc coated) and ceramic pads are pretty good. No need to upgrade calipers. Install is easy. Take the wheels off and each caliper is held on by 2 bolts (13mm I believe). Front caliper pistons simply press in but for the rears twist in so you'll need a caliper compression kit (I got one for $20 at Harbor Freight with multiple attachments) or the cube tool which is like $8. Caliper brackets have to come off and each one is only held on by 2 bolts. Pull those off then the rotors will slide right off so you can slide the new ones on. Bolt the caliper brackets back on, put a little brake grease on any part of the pads that touch metal, put the pads in, put the calipers on, bolt down the calipers, install the wheels, take the car off the jack stands, torque down the lug nuts, and go test out the new pads/rotors. Sometimes taking the cap off the master cylinder helps makes the calipers a little easier to compress.

Lumoon · June 5th, 2011, 03:33 PM

Originally Posted by mcqueen

A set of slotted rotors (zinc coated) and ceramic pads are pretty good. No need to upgrade calipers. Install is easy. Take the wheels off and each caliper is held on by 2 bolts (13mm I believe). Front caliper pistons simply press in but for the rears twist in so you'll need a caliper compression kit (I got one for $20 at Harbor Freight with multiple attachments) or the cube tool which is like $8. Caliper brackets have to come off and each one is only held on by 2 bolts. Pull those off then the rotors will slide right off so you can slide the new ones on. Bolt the caliper brackets back on, put a little brake grease on any part of the pads that touch metal, put the pads in, put the calipers on, bolt down the calipers, install the wheels, take the car off the jack stands, torque down the lug nuts, and go test out the new pads/rotors. Sometimes taking the cap off the master cylinder helps makes the calipers a little easier to compress.

It makes it a lot easier.

Don't get the cross drilled Rotors I've found that they wear a lot faster than the plain slotted rotors. I also had a cross drilled rotor crack under a heavy brake load (8 car pile up in a fog storm)

The slotted rotors allow air to pass easier and keeps the rotor cool which reduces brake pad stick and wear rates. The Zinc coating on them keeps the rust off. While your calipers are out might as well paint them.

SON1C · June 5th, 2011, 03:55 PM

yeah i was going to ask, how to paint them good and what paint?

and i've heard of the drilled cracking a lot

so i should jut go with slotted rotors?

Lumoon · June 5th, 2011, 03:57 PM

Slotted is good.
And Advanced has caliper paint. Clean them up real good with a rough sand paper and wipe them off then paint.

SON1C · June 5th, 2011, 03:59 PM

I can't really find any deals on ebay for just slotted rotors? they're all drilled and slotted

SON1C · June 5th, 2011, 03:59 PM

what grit would be good?

Lumoon · June 5th, 2011, 04:02 PM

I used 80 but that just because that's what I had in the tool box. I just sanded the rust off mine and gave them a good few coats of black. They looked pretty good for awhile but they need cleaned bad atm.

ag11hockey · June 6th, 2011, 08:21 PM

i got the ones from the second link and have had them for about a year now no issues. great stopping power too. very good bang for your buck i think

Mr. Red Pony · June 6th, 2011, 11:37 PM

Slotted cool quicker. Solid last longer. Slotted will eat up the pads a lot quicker than what a solid will.

walt1120 · June 6th, 2011, 11:52 PM

when i replace mine im going with slotted, some guys go with both drilled and slotted but ive heard that it weakens the rotors.

i know stangmods has some pretty decent pricing on rotors and brakes, they sell some complete brake packages too.

WLJohnson05 · June 6th, 2011, 11:55 PM

Truthfully, unless you have the power upgrades to need them, just go with your OEM stuff.

mcqueen · June 7th, 2011, 02:34 AM

Originally Posted by walt1120

when i replace mine im going with slotted, some guys go with both drilled and slotted but ive heard that it weakens the rotors.

I believe having the holes drilling in the rotors makes them more prone to cracking. I've been running my drilled and slotted rotors for over a year with no issues, although I tend to engine brake quite a bit.

walt1120 · June 7th, 2011, 02:54 AM

Originally Posted by mcqueen

I believe having the holes drilling in the rotors makes them more prone to cracking. I've been running my drilled and slotted rotors for over a year with no issues, although I tend to engine brake quite a bit.

yeah me is a poor auto though

me cant do da engine brake

mcqueen · June 7th, 2011, 03:48 AM

Tis a sad day

SON1C · June 7th, 2011, 10:37 AM

yeah i've heard that the drilled crack, a lot, especially on auto x which im hoping to do some of, and yeah im gonna go oem style but i figured one of those ebay packages would be the best deal?

SON1C · June 7th, 2011, 10:38 AM

should i just go with solid then? get my current rotors turned?

mp4 player · June 7th, 2011, 05:05 PM

Originally Posted by Elias101a

should i just go with solid then? get my current rotors turned?

Go get your rotors measured and turned. There's no point in switching to probably lower quality rotors if yours are still good.

It'll turn this into like a $60 brake job.

SON1C · June 7th, 2011, 06:10 PM

idk if they're still good?

June 5th, 2011, 01:25 PM	#1
SON1C Run ur car, not ur mouth. 2003 Sonic Blue 4.6L Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 4,057 Blog Entries: 1 iTrader: 3 reviews	Brake Upgrade Parts+Install really rotor and pad replacement/upgrade don't think i should upgrade calipers unless i need to? what rotor and pad combo should i go with? i was thinking that i would go with the best cheap set i could find on ebay? I want to install them myself however, i'm never done this and tbh i'm not that good all advice/suggestions welcome and appreciated __________________ 238rwhp/263rwtq Drew's Build Thread

June 5th, 2011, 01:27 PM	#2
SON1C Run ur car, not ur mouth. 2003 Sonic Blue 4.6L Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 4,057 Blog Entries: 1 iTrader: 3 reviews	Mustang GT V6 99 00 01 02 03 04 Brake Rotors and Pads F \| eBay Performance Brake Rotors and Ceramic Pads Front & Rear \| eBay this one seems like the best bang for your buck? but i hope you get more than you pay for? ELINE PERFORMANCE Brake Rotors and Pads (FRONT PACKAGE) \| eBay [ FRONT + REAR] Factory Replacement Brake Rotors + Pads - eBay (item 260791803082 end time Jun-26-11 18:17:45 PDT) __________________ 238rwhp/263rwtq Drew's Build Thread Last edited by WLJohnson05; June 6th, 2011 at 11:53 PM.

June 5th, 2011, 03:55 PM	#5
SON1C Run ur car, not ur mouth. 2003 Sonic Blue 4.6L Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 4,057 Blog Entries: 1 iTrader: 3 reviews	yeah i was going to ask, how to paint them good and what paint? and i've heard of the drilled cracking a lot so i should jut go with slotted rotors? __________________ 238rwhp/263rwtq Drew's Build Thread

June 5th, 2011, 03:57 PM	#6
Lumoon Regular 2001 Mustang V6 Its a V6 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Fairfield, Ohio Posts: 460 iTrader: 0 reviews	Slotted is good. And Advanced has caliper paint. Clean them up real good with a rough sand paper and wipe them off then paint. __________________ Done so far: 3.73 w/ lsd rear end. custom 91 octane tune by R Style Performance rebuilt 4r70w 24% UDP pulleys aluminum drive shaft Windstar ready to be installed pending ported lower intake arrival

June 5th, 2011, 03:59 PM	#7
SON1C Run ur car, not ur mouth. 2003 Sonic Blue 4.6L Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 4,057 Blog Entries: 1 iTrader: 3 reviews	I can't really find any deals on ebay for just slotted rotors? they're all drilled and slotted __________________ 238rwhp/263rwtq Drew's Build Thread

June 5th, 2011, 03:59 PM	#8
SON1C Run ur car, not ur mouth. 2003 Sonic Blue 4.6L Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 4,057 Blog Entries: 1 iTrader: 3 reviews	what grit would be good? __________________ 238rwhp/263rwtq Drew's Build Thread

June 5th, 2011, 04:02 PM	#9
Lumoon Regular 2001 Mustang V6 Its a V6 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Fairfield, Ohio Posts: 460 iTrader: 0 reviews	I used 80 but that just because that's what I had in the tool box. I just sanded the rust off mine and gave them a good few coats of black. They looked pretty good for awhile but they need cleaned bad atm. __________________ Done so far: 3.73 w/ lsd rear end. custom 91 octane tune by R Style Performance rebuilt 4r70w 24% UDP pulleys aluminum drive shaft Windstar ready to be installed pending ported lower intake arrival

June 6th, 2011, 08:21 PM	#10
ag11hockey Enthusiast 1999 Mustang V6 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rochester NY Posts: 654 iTrader: 0 reviews	i got the ones from the second link and have had them for about a year now no issues. great stopping power too. very good bang for your buck i think __________________

June 6th, 2011, 11:37 PM	#11
Mr. Red Pony Resident badass 01 Built V6 (3.9) 13.91 @ 99.1 N/A Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Lawton, Oklahomo Posts: 6,789 iTrader: 10 reviews	Slotted cool quicker. Solid last longer. Slotted will eat up the pads a lot quicker than what a solid will. __________________ 271rwhp N/A V6 The Name is Danny. I'm a GM Technician. Suck it.

June 6th, 2011, 11:52 PM	#12
walt1120 Hardcore Enthusiast 04 Stang 1.0Gallon V6 14.45 @95.8 Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: South Jersey Posts: 2,130 iTrader: 2 reviews	when i replace mine im going with slotted, some guys go with both drilled and slotted but ive heard that it weakens the rotors. i know stangmods has some pretty decent pricing on rotors and brakes, they sell some complete brake packages too. __________________ 2004 Bolt on & Cammed 3.9L V6

June 6th, 2011, 11:55 PM	#13
WLJohnson05 MM's Database Error 2004 Mustang V6 322.8 rwhp Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: VA Posts: 13,285 iTrader: 9 reviews	Truthfully, unless you have the power upgrades to need them, just go with your OEM stuff. __________________ I'm trying to get rid of this stuff, feel free to make me an offer!: SCT Mass Air Flow Sensor $200 Tial Wastegate Springs $40 (10psi and 3.6psi)

June 7th, 2011, 10:37 AM	#17
SON1C Run ur car, not ur mouth. 2003 Sonic Blue 4.6L Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 4,057 Blog Entries: 1 iTrader: 3 reviews	yeah i've heard that the drilled crack, a lot, especially on auto x which im hoping to do some of, and yeah im gonna go oem style but i figured one of those ebay packages would be the best deal? __________________ 238rwhp/263rwtq Drew's Build Thread

June 7th, 2011, 10:38 AM	#18
SON1C Run ur car, not ur mouth. 2003 Sonic Blue 4.6L Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 4,057 Blog Entries: 1 iTrader: 3 reviews	should i just go with solid then? get my current rotors turned? __________________ 238rwhp/263rwtq Drew's Build Thread

June 7th, 2011, 06:10 PM	#20
SON1C Run ur car, not ur mouth. 2003 Sonic Blue 4.6L Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 4,057 Blog Entries: 1 iTrader: 3 reviews	idk if they're still good? __________________ 238rwhp/263rwtq Drew's Build Thread

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