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Old November 16th, 2011, 01:42 AM   #1
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questions


(For those who have seen me post in the gt section(s) I'm stuck with a v6 for anotherr two years.. :/ )

1. I talked to the transmission's teacher at my college and he said my car/gears/rear end area is whining is due to pinion depth, and not because of the brand. How do you detemrn what is the right depth. Americanmuscle's install guide for the gt (was using tht guide for gt as refernce to work on the 6) did not say anything.
Who do I fix the depth

2. Sence I will be with my six threw my college days ,and I still have my cam stuff that I was thinking about selling them for $ to put toward my gt which I will no longer be needing to save for. So bottom line is I'm going to cam my car and IFFFF I got with the 4.2 do I need to change anything with the ecu/computer/harness or sence there the same block everything is fine I can just build the 4.2 and ""drop it right in"" and reconect everything no problem??
Or what do I need to know about switching to the 4.2

Its not comfirmed but its belived that I have a cracket head and if thts the case ima say the f with it and by a 4.2 long block

3. Sotck hood vs stock hood with hood scoop from am...what the take on tht/opinons

4. Lowing the car......? How many inches is...good/safe with out bottoming out?
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Old November 16th, 2011, 01:48 AM   #2
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go read my cam thread for 4.2 info. Or search it. Plenty of threads that clearly spell that process out.
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Old November 16th, 2011, 02:08 AM   #3
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...just tell me if I need to mod my computer/ecu or anything technically for the 4.2.
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Old November 16th, 2011, 02:23 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by 6ixer View Post
...just tell me if I need to mod my computer/ecu or anything technically for the 4.2.
you will not have to mod the computer in any way

you will however need a tune to get the best performance

for example my H/C/I car dyno'd at 178 rwhp with no tune which isnt a hole lot over stock
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Old November 16th, 2011, 02:33 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by southfour View Post
you will not have to mod the computer in any way

you will however need a tune to get the best performance

for example my H/C/I car dyno'd at 178 rwhp with no tune which isnt a hole lot over stock
Thank you sir that's what I wanted to hear...so just drop tht 4.2 in and re connect everything and send her off to a dyno tune then?....


Why did urs not make more it should run very shity if no tunee...and I've seen several cammed v6 mustangs put mid 230s down at the wheels
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Old November 16th, 2011, 02:38 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by 6ixer View Post
Thank you sir that's what I wanted to hear...so just drop tht 4.2 in and re connect everything and send her off to a dyno tune then?....


Why did urs not make more it should run very shity if no tunee...and I've seen several cammed v6 mustangs put mid 230s down at the wheels
its running on the stock tune and running rich, it will be tuned in a month or so once its turbo'd. I didnt want to pay to tune it twice in less than 6 months
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Old November 16th, 2011, 09:35 AM   #7
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already stated, but build it, drop it in, and tune it.

If you get the 4.2L, you will still need the Mustang intake manifold and the Mustang oil pan to be able to close the hood and fit the factory crossmember...
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Old November 16th, 2011, 02:48 PM   #8
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Well id be getting a remanufactured 4.2 long block all I need is the mustangs upper/lower intake and the accary stuff like atl and a/c and water pump and then I can drop it in..I was gunna get it and use the stangs lower and use a windstar upper and drop it in
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Old November 16th, 2011, 04:22 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by 6ixer View Post
(For those who have seen me post in the gt section(s) I'm stuck with a v6 for anotherr two years.. :/ )

1. I talked to the transmission's teacher at my college and he said my car/gears/rear end area is whining is due to pinion depth, and not because of the brand. How do you detemrn what is the right depth. Americanmuscle's install guide for the gt (was using tht guide for gt as refernce to work on the 6) did not say anything.
Who do I fix the depth

2. Sence I will be with my six threw my college days ,and I still have my cam stuff that I was thinking about selling them for $ to put toward my gt which I will no longer be needing to save for. So bottom line is I'm going to cam my car and IFFFF I got with the 4.2 do I need to change anything with the ecu/computer/harness or sence there the same block everything is fine I can
just build the 4.2 and ""drop it right in"" and reconect everything no problem??
Or what do I need to know about switching to the 4.2

Its not comfirmed but its belived that I have a cracket head and if thts the case ima say the f with it and by a 4.2 long block


3. Sotck hood vs stock hood with hood scoop from am...what the take on tht/opinons

4. Lowing the car......? How many inches is...good/safe with out bottoming
out?

Gears shouldn't whine because of the brand. Your teacher is correct. Ive seen rearends with tahoe, Ford Racing, Motive etc that didn't whine. It's just how meticulous you are when installing.
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Old November 16th, 2011, 04:35 PM   #10
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you will need the mustang oil pan as well.
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Old November 16th, 2011, 04:38 PM   #11
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And since the 4.2L is internally balanced, you will either need the crank pulley from the F-150 or from an 01-04 Mustang.

I am not 100% sure, but something makes me think you will need an 01-04 Mustang Flywheel as well...
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Old November 16th, 2011, 06:27 PM   #12
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Well the info on the engine says harmonically ballence.
I was gunna pull the 3.8 use parts from the 3.8 like the fly wheel...if I need and while the engine is pulled the clutch will be repplaced....and I'm gunna use the lower intake from the 3.8 put it on the 4.2 and windstaar it and cam it...
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Old November 16th, 2011, 11:27 PM   #13
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your gonna spend 2000$ on a rebuilt 4.2 ? + shipping so closer to 2500 ?

Or last I looked its about that price.

Junkyard heaven, half the price for good shit I even spent a couple hundred extra to get even lower miles on my block (27k) still after shipping was 900$
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Old November 16th, 2011, 11:37 PM   #14
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2 grand i would buy a 4.3 stroker kit and be at the same spot in money spent. Lol
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Old November 17th, 2011, 01:35 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by mustangmike! View Post
your gonna spend 2000$ on a rebuilt 4.2 ? + shipping so closer to 2500 ?

Or last I looked its about that price.

Junkyard heaven, half the price for good shit I even spent a couple hundred extra to get even lower miles on my block (27k) still after shipping was 900$

He is even crazier than you are~
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Old November 17th, 2011, 08:12 AM   #16
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Nope just 2250 I alrdy have an "out" for shipping
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Old November 17th, 2011, 08:53 AM   #17
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what year 4.2 are you planning to use? The one most people use are internally balanced like the 01-04 Mustangs.
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Old November 17th, 2011, 07:23 PM   #18
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97/98 from an f150
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Old November 17th, 2011, 07:57 PM   #19
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So here is 2250 bucks better spent on the same motor

4.3 stroker kit 1800
4.2l oil pan 100
Balancing 300

Assembly is easy spleasy

You already have a decent cam. Gasket mach your heads and lower intake. Throw the windsor and 150 shot on that bitch.


Yes you can nickel and dime it to be a little more. But think about what really makes sense.
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Old November 17th, 2011, 10:19 PM   #20
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The problem is my block is is some wat juunk some were the rust/or somthing is oxidizing and it s gettin in the collan system and its burning oil and coolant at the same time I was gunna get a refabed engine do heads and lower (port) deck the block and cam it all while its on anengine stand...and during the wkend pull and drop in and replace clutch when engine is out
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