[Green_6er]

I am wanting to lower the car for christmas but i don't have enough for CC plates atm. So my question is, if i got Ford racing B or C springs, would i need CC plates? also dos snyone know where i can find Ford racing F springs? and would i need CC plates for those?

[Green_6er]

okay, well i found the f springs. would i still need CC plates to go with them?

[ReverendDexter]

If you're happy with factory alignment specs, you don't need CC plates until you get low enough that you can't correct your alignment back to those specs. That happens at about 1.5" of drop.

The real concern is camber, which you can correct a degree's worth through the use of $30 camber bolts. Caster is only going to go more positive, which is a good thing.

[Green_6er]

well on the f springs it advertises a 1.2" drop in the front and 1" drop in the back. although i have heard it going all the way to 1.5" since i have a v6 i am not expecting it to get that low. I'm not going to be doing any hardcore auto-x stuff, just spirited driving around the bend is about it. so if i do get the springs i wouldn't need the CC plates to get the alignment back to stock?

Link to said springs:
Ford Racing M-5300-F Ford Racing Spring Kits

[ReverendDexter]

Well, for spirited driving around corners, you don't really want factory specs anyway. You want a little more camber than stock (-1.5 should keep you from wearing out the outer shoulders of your tires), and as much caster as you can get.

But, that's outside the scope of what you're asking. I'd do the drop and see where it puts you. Neither camber bolts nor CC plates are really anything that're significantly more difficult to install if you don't do them as a "while you're in there" with the springs. If you have to run around for a week with tires that are at -.5 to 0 degrees, it's not gonna kill you, lol.

I will say, if you're reusing your struts, don't use an impact on the top nut. It can screw up the internals of the damper.

[Green_6er]

struts are being replaced anyways while i'm in there since they are stock and have 135k+ on them lol (i don't think they will hold up to the lowering springs very long lol)

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by Green_6er struts are being replaced anyways while i'm in there since they are stock and have 135k+ on them lol (i don't think they will hold up to the lowering springs very long lol)

That'll make your life easier. Unless you've got something like a Bilstein that's setup for an allen key, it's a right PITA to get a torqued top-nut off without an impact. Especially stuff like sensatracs where they have a slot for a screwdriver... 'cause THAT'S helpful

Hahaha

[Green_6er]

haha yeah. but Springs, Struts, (shocks were replaced like 5k ago), and iso's only comes out to $360 i pretty happy with that with hopefully a 1.2" drop all the way around.

[xi KRON1C ix]

just cut the stockers, cheap easy and quick and it looks great

[2000stallion]

i must be the only person who doesnt like cut stock springs

[xi KRON1C ix]

I wouldnt say your the only one, but it is a pretty popular and cheap mod

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by 2000stallion i must be the only person who doesnt like cut stock springs

I don't like or dislike them. It's just one more tool to keep available; there's an appropriate application for them, and a number of inappropriate applications that people end up using them for. If all you see are the inappropriate applications, it's no surprise you'd dislike them.

You shouldn't use a 1/2" drive ratchet as a hammer, but I'd be surprised if most of us haven't done that at least once, lol. If you know your tools you don't bitch about how bad of a hammer a 1/2" ratchet is, if you really need a hammer you get a hammer.

[2000stallion]

i had mine cut before, but swapped them out for some Ford Racing B springs and loved the difference

[Macunicorn]

Not only will it effect camber, but also depending on how much you lower the ride height it will effect bumpsteer angles too. So bumpsteer kit might need to be installed to correct the bumpsteer angle. You will also need to address toe-angles too after lowering.

[Green_6er]

I WANT TO KEEP THE STOCK SPRINGS SO I CAN RETURN IT TO STOCK TO SELL IN THE FUTURE. please read the above posts. and i am going with the f springs.

[xi KRON1C ix]

Originally Posted by green_6er i want to keep the stock springs so i can return it to stock to sell in the future. Please read the above posts. And i am going with the f springs.

i did read the above post and it doesnt say anything about keeping the stock springs. sorry if I missed it

[goren813]

Originally Posted by 2000stallion i must be the only person who doesnt like cut stock springs

No, you're not.

Rev kinda hit the point on (as usual). A lot of times its just done incorrectly and from the majority of reviews the ride just suffers to much.

[xi KRON1C ix]

I think everyone has different results, my ride hasnt really suffered at all. A little more bouncy than before, but that probably has to do with the spring rate. Its not for everyone

[goren813]

Yeah, just one of those things with a stigma tied to it because so many have failed miserably, that those who have done it properly and gotten desireable results need to speak louder to be heard through the white noise. I'm happy with the Prokit for now.

[6ER THEN I 8ER!]

Originally Posted by xi KRON1C ix I think everyone has different results, my ride hasnt really suffered at all. A little more bouncy than before, but that probably has to do with the spring rate. Its not for everyone

glad you like my work