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Old December 13th, 2011, 06:30 PM   #1
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Stroke or swap?


Going to finally pull the trigger this winter on upping the ante on the old sixer. I'm staying with a six but I wanted to know if I should stroke the 3.8 block (2002 model year) I have now with ~72K miles on it or get a junkyard 4.2 out of a later model F150 and go that route.

Either way the top end will consist of Stage 3 SSM H/C/I and a windstar upper. No spray or boost - just clean N/A power and a proper tune.

I know if I go the F150 route I'll have to do the following:

- 4.2 shortblock or longblock
- You can use the 4.2 heads
- Mustang upper and lower intake and fuel rail
- Mustang 3.8 water pump
- Auto trans = your stock flexplate
- 5spd = your stock flywheel and a pilot bearing
- V6 Mustang bellhousing
- Re-use your stock cam position sensor
- Your 01-up 3.8 oil pan
- Your 01-up 3.8 oil pick-up tube and screen
- Your stock 01-up 3.8 damper
- Re-use the stock 3.8 oil pressure sender and tube
- Re-use the Mustang headers
- You can use the 4.2 or 3.8 dipstick. Just keep track of where 5 qts puts the mark when refilling with oil.



Thoughts?





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this thread has more fail in the first 5 posts than all of the "what exhaust?" threads in the v6 section.
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Old December 14th, 2011, 10:02 PM   #2
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Well if you just want to keep your sixer for some clean DD and have decient power.....well power over stock then yes h/c/I is a good place to start....tear down engine a learn stuff

The only other thing I can suggest that I swore I didn't see there is gears...3.73s or 4.10snyour choice...
As for I think the 3 of us are doing with are set up is geard h/c/I and sprayed @ 100 shot lol
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Old December 15th, 2011, 09:15 AM   #3
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6ixer, he's just talking about the motor, not supporting mods.

If you plan on continuing to drive the car, I would get a 4.2 motor that way you can knock out the crank, and just do a full rebuild on a stand. Take your time that way you don't have to rush anything.
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Old December 15th, 2011, 09:29 AM   #4
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Been there done this. Waste of time and money ...

Save money, enjoy car as is. Buy something x10 better in a few years.


or

Turbo
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Old December 15th, 2011, 10:10 AM   #5
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Depending on his build plans, the set-up he posted should only cost him around $600. If he gets one with low enough miles it could be worth it.
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Old December 15th, 2011, 11:39 AM   #6
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Read his build plans ... HCI 4.2 N/A build ...

600 will get him the engine yes. Then you need money for new gaskets. Supposing you have the tools and ability to do everything. But you'll want new oil and gaskets and coolant unless you reuse fluids. But you can not reuse gaskets. Will have to be replaced.

Idk if you've seen the price on head gaskets and bolts lately ?

If you found a junker f150 of the right year model and could pull it yourself you might could do the swap for 600 ... lots of labor to save that money though...

And thats the issue. You have to look at your income and ability and see if its better for you to work a few hours instead of spending those hours pulling it yourself.
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Old December 15th, 2011, 12:37 PM   #7
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As long as you are fine with Fel-Pro, head bolts are only $15 per head, and the gaskets, you can get a full engine kit for around $120 shipped. About to order one myself to refresh the whole motor when I do my cam install soon.
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Old December 15th, 2011, 04:25 PM   #8
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gasket set 120$?

Stage 3 ssx heads alone are going to cost him 1750$
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Old December 15th, 2011, 05:46 PM   #9
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yes from RockAuto.com

Heh, I seem to have skipped right past the heads...
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Old December 15th, 2011, 10:39 PM   #10
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Yep got most of the expenses figured out and the required tools.

I put all plans for my '71 Charger on hold and realized that with it creeping up on 100K miles the 'ol F150 is at it's end for mods. Now it will just serve it's job as DD transport. Only money going into that will be for broken parts and gas.

The trip to Pennsie and some time in the one salvage yard there will net me the F150 block for $50 or the entire motor for $125 Just need to find a low milage one.

I was going to go with Fel-Pro for gaskets. Head bolts are still being speced out.

Cherry picker and engine stand are in a buddy's storage locker. and I just spent over $600 this past year on a crap load of Craftsman tools. I got tired of my mismatched and cheap stuff. Got a few nice bins to boot and all organized.

Originally Posted by mustangmike! View Post
Been there done this. Waste of time and money ... Save money, enjoy car as is. Buy something x10 better in a few years. Or Turbo
Owned the car since 2004. Bought it the winter of my junior year in HS. Only way that this car will leave my possession is when it gets smashed so badly that it is beyond repair.

As for F/I no. Not dealing with all the headaches of that, especially the rerouting of EVERYTHING under the hood to make a turbo kit fit and going back to a fake dual exhaust and dealing with the emissons man down at inspection. I like being able to silently giggle when he starts poking at he car only to find the computer saying "Yep, I'm happy and all me parts are still here" and seeing 2 cats and 4 O2's underneath.




I just want something with a little more pep. Interior is almost done with a full overhaul of the old radio, dynamated some of the metal to stop rattles and laid down a new rug. Overhauled the suspension this summer - lowering springs from DNA (what a mistake there ), Steeda X2 balljoints, Steeda bumpsteer kit, and had a buddy sandblast and paint my spindles. Exterior is mostly good - got my GT hood, rear bumper and my Termi front. Just needs a real paint job instead of my rattle can skills. all that's left is this here motor project and I'll be quite happy for many years to come.


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this thread has more fail in the first 5 posts than all of the "what exhaust?" threads in the v6 section.
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Old December 16th, 2011, 12:55 AM   #11
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you don't have to re-route anything with the right turbo kit....
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Old December 16th, 2011, 03:29 AM   #12
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Let him do what he wants to do I know h/c/I isn't worth much in power gains vs f/I but I'm still gunna do it anyways....why?? Because I'm already head first into it and have 95% of my parts I have everything execpt my upper gasket kits and that's it and for spring to come so I can borrow my dads truck...I could sell the parts and I might but its not like I'm gunna sell the parts and get a gt id love too but I got college coming up and I don't want a bill every month for a car
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Old December 16th, 2011, 08:45 AM   #13
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Shit, 6er, I'm an Engineer and I still don't want the extra bill every month for a car, LOL.

Too many GT500 people in my club telling me I'm wasting my time. But with the $600 a month I'd spend on a GT500 I could make my sixxer sing...
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Old December 16th, 2011, 11:25 AM   #14
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OP ...

Just ask ESG ... you sound EXACTLY like I did when I first went into this project !!!!

I was dead set on staying N/A and now look what im telling you ... GO FI GO FI GO FI !!!
But I can see how inspection can be a problem, which still limits you on a good N/A build.

Seriously man it looks cheap till you get in there doing this shit.

120$ for gaskets and you'll be changing them soon. Hopefully your whole engine wont need to come out when you do... You need to put your money down on some quality parts !


A cam swap alone if you go with a cheaper regrind and LS yellows/GT Rs and do everything as cheap as possible, around 700 for the cam swap alone.

If your heads come off that engine, up up up goes the price. Well it doesn't really have to but its your car. so put what parts you want to in it.

But im serious man, if you can get around emissions, or whatever the problems are. Go with a properly built turbo kit.

simply reversing your headers and having a kit built from them back will be easy enough. It can be done that the only things changing basically are: Fuel injectors, fuel pump, reverse headers, install kit, run new intake piping with intercooler, run electronics as needed. Take to exhaust shop, fab whatever the hell you want up. Go get a tune.

Want me to spell out a full N/A build for you ?

How about a 1,100 post, 57 page thread on my ... experience: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-slips-57.html
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Old December 16th, 2011, 11:27 AM   #15
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Turbo would have been 10x easier and on a stock engine alone I would have probably gained a minimum of 50/75 hp alone. And probably would have spent = or less money. and put half the effort and pain in the ass into it ...
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Old December 16th, 2011, 11:53 AM   #16
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The $120 for gaskets is all Fel-Pro.
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Old December 16th, 2011, 12:09 PM   #17
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Im gonna call a bull shit flag on that unless your getting the hook up or its not a "complete" kit. head gaskets alone are like 50$ a piece I believe.
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Old December 16th, 2011, 12:33 PM   #18
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Fel-Pro HS9250PT2 - Head Gasket Set | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Now that is a Full gasket kit for 183$ + tax ... Which Im not going to figure for you ... sorry
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Old December 16th, 2011, 01:07 PM   #19
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That same gasket kit is $114.59 on ebay, you have to shop around more no one actually pays sticker price. Looks like $163.31 is the lowest price for a true Felpro brand kit though; I take that back Amazon sells it for $142.66 with free shipping.
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Old December 16th, 2011, 01:54 PM   #20
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RockAuto.com buddy...
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