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Old December 26th, 2011, 10:50 PM   3 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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Question

04 V6 lowered


Was wanting to lower my mustang, anyone have an idea as to how much it would be to properly lower it about 2-3 inches?
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Old December 26th, 2011, 10:56 PM   #2
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for that type of drop you'll either need coil overs...or a top end shock/strut setup...lowering springs...bumpsteer kit...x2 balljoints...c&c plates...etc etc

why so low???
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Old December 26th, 2011, 11:04 PM   #3
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hmmmmmm, your right
what about just 1.75"?
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Old December 26th, 2011, 11:08 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by zero_or_die View Post
hmmmmmm, your right
what about just 1.75"?
i reccomend 1.5"....it's what most run and you won't need to have all of that other stuff to achieve that goal...

for that you can get away with either cutting your oe springs or buy lowering springs...both do the job well

to that you can add the other things like shock/struts and the such to make the ride quality that much better...
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Old December 26th, 2011, 11:11 PM   #5
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here's an example


before


after cut springs (roughly a 1.5" drop)
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Old December 26th, 2011, 11:20 PM   #6
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Say I bought these:
H&R Super Sport Mustang Springs (96-04 GT/V6) 51652-77 - Free Shipping!

what else would i need to buy?
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Old December 26th, 2011, 11:32 PM   #7
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Try this.
H&R Super Sport Mustang Springs (96-04 GT/V6) 51652-77 - Free Shipping!
Or
Ford Racing Mustang C-Springs (79-04) M-5300-C - Free Shipping! You don't get as much as a drop with these but it's cheaper and if you really want you can leave out the iso's and wrap the bottom of the spring with Black electrical tape for another 1/4" at the MOST.

And new Shocks/Struts will be in Order.
Strange Engineering S6004LM - Strange Externally Adjustable Mustang Shocks - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Strange Engineering S6005LM - Strange Externally Adjustable Mustang Struts - Overview - SummitRacing.com
These are most commonly used in drag-racing applications, but I know a guy who uses them on his DD and another who uses them for his Auto-X and DD car. The ride on both of them is comfortable as stock, yet more responsive and firm.

And while your at it, think about these for the future.
1979-2004 Mustang Full Length Subframe Connectors w/ Crossbraces & Torque Box Adapters - 1994-2004 - Chassis Bracing - Chassis & Drivetrain - Home for your Ford Mustang
Maximum Motorsports Mustang Caster/Camber Plates (94-04) MMCC9994 - Free Shipping!
Steeda Bumpsteer Kit (94-04 Mustang) 555-8104 - Free Shipping!
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Old December 26th, 2011, 11:53 PM   #8
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Would i have to get the car aligned after installing the springs and bump steer kit?
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Old December 27th, 2011, 12:01 AM   #9
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yes. and btw, i would save up another 200 for misc. BS that you will run into. I ended up having to buy new front brake calipers while i'm doing mine because my front ones locked up after i attempted to put new front pads on it.
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Old December 27th, 2011, 01:12 AM   #10
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yeah i always go the cheap route lol....i do cut springs (the correct way)...then upgrade the things around it...to me there's just no point in paying for lowering springs when my cut springs ride the same as all of my friends aftermarket ones lol...
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Old December 27th, 2011, 01:22 AM   #11
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IMO I would not go lower then 1.5 in drop. Like others have stated you will need CC plates for alignment since the stock plates will max out at 1 degree of neg camber etc. You will also need bumpsteer kit to correct the angle because your changing the ride height and will increase bumpsteer. You also need a good quality strut and shock since the OEM will not hold up to long a lower ride height. These can get pricey depending on your budget for shocks.

If you go to low you will run into ground clearance issues with your mid-pipe and cats etc on your exhaust.
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Old December 27th, 2011, 01:25 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Macunicorn View Post
IMO I would not go lower then 1.5 in drop. Like others have stated you will need CC plates for alignment since the stock plates will max out at 1 degree of neg camber etc. You will also need bumpsteer kit to correct the angle because your changing the ride height and will increase bumpsteer. You also need a good quality strut and shock since the OEM will not hold up to long a lower ride height. These can get pricey depending on your budget for shocks.

If you go to low you will run into ground clearance issues with your mid-pipe and cats etc on your exhaust.
he doesn't NEED anything...he could use things to optimize ride, but he doesn't NEED things besides the springs....hell he can run stock shock/struts for as long as they hold out...which i've found can be years of lowered riding (would of gone longer lol if not for the incident)
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Old December 27th, 2011, 01:26 AM   #13
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Best advice i can give you is to do everything right the first time and all at once

dont just do springs

Go with MM CC plates if nessesary

a nice set of eibach's or h&r's or some other good quality spring

you should be fine with some tockio blues for shocks and struts

steeda bumpsteer
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Old December 27th, 2011, 01:31 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by 6ER THEN I 8ER! View Post
he doesn't NEED anything...he could use things to optimize ride, but he doesn't NEED things besides the springs....hell he can run stock shock/struts for as long as they hold out...which i've found can be years of lowered riding (would of gone longer lol if not for the incident)
Not sure about years on stock struts after lowering. The stockers are not valved for a stiffer spring rate caused by lowered springs and will blow out the seals in the struts. MIne lasted about 4 months before they started to leak after I lowered my car.
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Old December 27th, 2011, 01:33 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Macunicorn View Post
Not sure about years on stock struts after lowering. The stockers are not valved for a stiffer spring rate caused by lowered springs and will blow out the seals in the struts. MIne lasted about 4 months before they started to leak after I lowered my car.
mine lasted for over 2 years without issue on a 1.5" drop...and i was rough with my car...
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Old December 27th, 2011, 01:37 AM   #16
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well mine were dead before i lowered, which is the main reason why i replaced mine

anyways it saves you alignment fees to do it all at once
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Old December 27th, 2011, 01:38 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by southfour! View Post
well mine were dead before i lowered, which is the main reason why i replaced mine

anyways it saves you alignment fees to do it all at once
2 wheel alignments around here are $50 so it's not horrible...although i've worked out a deal with a shop around here....i detail his harley and he'll align my car..it's a great trade off
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Old December 27th, 2011, 01:39 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by 6ER THEN I 8ER! View Post
mine lasted for over 2 years without issue on a 1.5" drop...and i was rough with my car...
Ya I was pushing mine hard on stock struts at the time.
Then got a killer deal on Koni SA and never looked back.
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Old December 27th, 2011, 01:41 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by 6ER THEN I 8ER! View Post
2 wheel alignments around here are $50 so it's not horrible...although i've worked out a deal with a shop around here....i detail his harley and he'll align my car..it's a great trade off
wow, cheapest i found in town was $150
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Old December 27th, 2011, 01:43 AM   #20
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MIne ran about $85 for alignment. I have had mine down about 4 times.
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