[rafter40]

Dropping my tranny for the first time today. I have read the auto zone instructions.

I was just wondering if you guys had any tips, tricks, or links things i should read through.

Reason for dropping tranny is to see if something clutch related is causeing my engine to vibrate. (my mechanic said it was)

Thanks

[SALEEN961]

The T5 comes out really easy just remove the shifter handle and base, drain the trans fluid, drop the driveshaft, unhook a few electrical connections, drop the trans mount, remove the four bolts connecting the trans to the bell housing housing and the trans will slide right out.

[goren813]

Yup, not too difficult but can be a little time consuming. Exhaust will have to come off first (just the midpipe). Then basically as posted above me. You'll probably need some muscle to get the trans to slide back after unbolting from Bellhousing.

The top bolts for the BH are trickiest, you'll need a few diff. extension combos for socket wrenches to get to them. PITA.

And in fear of stating the obvious, there is a dust cover to inspect the clutch. Flashlight into that opening you can see if anything obvious is damaged, etc.

[SALEEN961]

Originally Posted by goren813 Yup, not too difficult but can be a little time consuming. Exhaust will have to come off first (just the midpipe). Then basically as posted above me. You'll probably need some muscle to get the trans to slide back after unbolting from Bellhousing. The top bolts for the BH are trickiest, you'll need a few diff. extension combos for socket wrenches to get to them. PITA. And in fear of stating the obvious, there is a dust cover to inspect the clutch. Flashlight into that opening you can see if anything obvious is damaged, etc.

The exhaust probably has to come down if you have an auto since the bell housing in integral, but for a manual you don't need to drop it. Just pull the trans back over the exhaust until the input shaft clears the bell housing, then just tip it forward slightly as you lower it and it will come right out. The top bell housing bolts can be a little annoying, but the trans removal is quick and easy.

[goren813]

I removed the exhaust when I did it, quick and easy to and gave a lot more room to work (jackstands, not a lift). But I suppose its possible then without doing so (manual trans here).

[SALEEN961]

Originally Posted by goren813 I removed the exhaust when I did it, quick and easy to and gave a lot more room to work (jackstands, not a lift). But I suppose its possible then without doing so (manual trans here).

That's a good point, on the ground without a transmission jack it probably would be much easier with the exhaust out of the way since it would be hard maneuver the trans over your head. I've had my trans out twice but only on a lift with a trans jack, I guess I'm one of the lucky ones

[rafter40]

thanks guys got true duals and i looks like the trans will drop right between them.

gonna go see what i cant do

[rafter40]

stuck on these top bell housing bolts. they suck

[Matt.]

Take pictures , lets see this

[stephen]

Originally Posted by rafter40 stuck on these top bell housing bolts. they suck

If you take out the upper intake manifold they should be accessible from the top.

[mustangmike!]

Man im just gonna say this.

If your pulling the T5, you should also pull the bell housing and clutch assembly. Inspect it all, resurface your flywheel and replace your rear main seal while you can... just my 2 scents, sense, cents, sints :p

[mustangmike!]

Originally Posted by stephen If you take out the upper intake manifold they should be accessible from the top.

I think he meant the top two of the four tranny to bh bolts, bot bh to block :p

but yes if you meant the bh to block bolts, going from the top is much much easier. But I pulled a t5 by myself at a pick in pull once. to get those top ones, you'll want some wobble joints, and a hand full of plenty long and short extensions, 3/8 drive is what I had the most of to get to them, then take a 1' long 1/2'' drive w/ a fat socket on the end and slip it over the 3/8 ratched to have extra leverage Leverage makes life 10x easier just sayin

[rafter40]

i am referring to the bolts on top of the bell housing.

mustang mike
i am actually trying to diagnose a serious vibration from the engine (mechanic said its comming from inside the clutch area) I am going to replace the clutch regardless once i get the bell housing off. Engine has 177k on it. Im not sure whats involved with the rear main seal and resurfacing the fly wheel so im not sure if its worth it.

I will deffinately check out taking off the intake manifold, thats not bad.

once i get the clutch and all the components off I was considering trying to start my engine to see if the vibration has left. is that ok to do?

[xtreme 2]

Flywheel resurfacing is just like machining a brake rotor. Shouldn't cost more than $15 and O'Reillys can do it.

The rear main seal is definitely a good idea but mainly just if you are leaking any oil.

[mustangmike!]

I just pulled my engine out yesterday. I did have both intakes off so it was even easier but see what you can do w/ just the upper off. may have to pop off the heater hoses to help some. idk. But w/ them off I can get the upper two w/ a 13mm wrench no problems.

I dont think yours has the IMRC box either so that might be easier w/ lower intake on still.

But like I said, I pulled a T5 by myself at a junkyard once, in july ... it sucked. Took forever, was hot, PITA, but works. Wobble joints and extensions. Wobble joints make things alot easier sometimes.

[mustangmike!]

Originally Posted by xtreme 2 Flywheel resurfacing is just like machining a brake rotor. Shouldn't cost more than $15 and O'Reillys can do it. The rear main seal is definitely a good idea but mainly just if you are leaking any oil.

^This,

if you have the clutch shit out and dont resurface the flywheel ... wheel you deserve the shit slapped outta you ... seriously ...

And a rear main seal leak is a bitch, typical seal to start leaking w/ high mileage. Its a cheap quick replacement, pry out, hammer in. Do it. Cause if you get a leak, you gotta do all this taking out again :p

[rafter40]

how about starting the car with the clutch out and everything?

do i have to drain the oil to do the rear main seal?

and im kinda surprized resurfacing the fly wheel is that important but hey i wouldnt know any way. never did it before

[stephen]

Originally Posted by rafter40 how about starting the car with the clutch out and everything? do i have to drain the oil to do the rear main seal? and im kinda surprized resurfacing the fly wheel is that important but hey i wouldnt know any way. never did it before

I think you can start the engine with the transmission out unless there is some interlock that would prevent it. It wouldn't work with an automatic because the TR sensor is disconnected.

No need to drain the oil to do the rear main seal.

Flywheel years have a balance weight in the flywheel/flex plate which is important to engine balance.

[stephen]

meant to say

Some years have a balance weight in the flywheel/flex plate which is important to engine balance.

[xtreme 2]

yes you can start the car without the transmission.

no you don't need to drain the oil. Some may leak out, just make sure you clean the seal before putting it back in. a little oil on the seal will help it to mate to the block properly.

yea it's important. It's just like a brake rotor for your transmission.