Moving Car Back To DD Status... Few Issues.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 01:31 AM   #1
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Moving Car Back To DD Status... Few Issues.


The Mustang is moving back to DD status for various reasons. Because of this I have been chasing down problems that have developed but I took my time fixing since I was not driving it much.

List of major issues right now:
  • Been running kinda rough. For awhile there it kept acting like it wanted to die.
  • Oil in spark plugs (not all of them)
  • One spark plug hold stripped
  • Possible exhaust leak, passenger manifold

What have I done so far?
  • Oil Change, went Synthetic. Also added an oil additive called Honey Oil
  • Changing spark plugs
  • Cleaned IAC
  • Cleaned MAF
  • Ordered a whole new CAI (had other reasons for this also)
  • Flushed coolant
  • Replaced passenger manifold gasket


Problem 1: Running Rough

Out of all the things I have done, any other ideas to help this? I have not put the car back together yet after the plugs, iac, and maf cleaning yet. This new CAI won't be here till Tuesday also. Anything else you can think of me to check/fix mention it.

Problem 2: Stripped spark plug hole

This is the big one right now. I was suggested to get a kit from the stone called Helicoil Sav-a-Thread. It is made for spark plugs, and all the reviews online say it is good. Anyone have any experiance?

It says the main thing to watch for is metal shavings getting into the chamber. They say this can be achived by spraying some lubricant on the tool.

Problem 3: Oil in plugs

I noticed in two of the 4 plugs I have taken out so far, there was a good bit of oil on the threads of the plug. Is this a concern that I need to address? If so, what could cause it and what steps can I take to fix/help the situation?
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Old January 8th, 2012, 01:56 AM   #2
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the heli-coil save a thread kits will do the job for fixing the stripped out one...as for the oil on the plugs...i'd run the new plugs for a few weeks then check the ones that had the oil on them...see if this is an on going issue..

other things that could cause it to idle rough...

-wires
-ignition coil
-upstream o2's
-exhaust or vaccum leak
-various other little sensors

just make sure to gap the plugs before install...also which ones did you go with?
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Old January 8th, 2012, 02:04 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by 6ER THEN I 8ER! View Post
the heli-coil save a thread kits will do the job for fixing the stripped out one...as for the oil on the plugs...i'd run the new plugs for a few weeks then check the ones that had the oil on them...see if this is an on going issue..

other things that could cause it to idle rough...

-wires
-ignition coil
-upstream o2's
-exhaust or vaccum leak
-various other little sensors

just make sure to gap the plugs before install...also which ones did you go with?
The plugs come pre-gaped, do they not? Bosch Platnium Plus... $2.99 each. Did not go with the +4 or anything like that.

The wires should be good. I replaced them back in March 2008 with 8.5mm MSD wires.

o2's could be an issue. They have never been replaced. Would throw a code though right?

Exhaust leak is a high probaility. If none of these thing fix it, I plan to take it to a shop to check the exhaust.

Another thing, The car when idling has had a kinda drone to it at times. Almost like it's idling a bit to high. Hard to explain.

Also... I got a error code the other night. I looked it up and the cause is cyl head overheating. I had just flushed the coolant, and it ended up needing some more coolant (maybe 1/3 of a bottle). I suppose that could of been what threw the code. Gonna clear it after all this and see if it comes back.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 02:08 AM   #4
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not the plugs i'd go with but it's your choice...and no they are not pre-gapped...only the +4's come pregapped...

as for the wires...well not really helping your car with 8.5mm but i don't think it'll hurt it...could be wrong (you'd need to ask ESG)....basically your oe coilpack isn't throwing any extra power through those wires...i know it affects the spark but i don't remember how much

as for the o2's...they normally throw a code but sometimes the code will pop up but not a light...if you have a handheld i'd check the memory and see if it's showing one..if not any autoparts store can do it for you

since you're having no luck on the exhaust leak a shop may be your only option for that unless you can get a hold of a smoker...

when it sounds like it's idling high is the actual RPMs showing over 700ish
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Old January 8th, 2012, 02:17 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by 6ER THEN I 8ER! View Post
not the plugs i'd go with but it's your choice...and no they are not pre-gapped...only the +4's come pregapped...

Well, guess I will check that then. Thanks.

as for the wires...well not really helping your car with 8.5mm but i don't think it'll hurt it...could be wrong (you'd need to ask ESG)....basically your oe coilpack isn't throwing any extra power through those wires...i know it affects the spark but i don't remember how much

I don't think its negativly affecting the spark. It's simply a larger wire, that CAN carry more voltage. It's like putting a 0 gauge wire for a battery that only put out enough for a 8 gauge. More power moving capability won't hurt it. I could be wrong though and spark wires are different.

as for the o2's...they normally throw a code but sometimes the code will pop up but not a light...if you have a handheld i'd check the memory and see if it's showing one..if not any autoparts store can do it for you

I used my SCT and it only showed the one code about the cyl head overheating.

since you're having no luck on the exhaust leak a shop may be your only option for that unless you can get a hold of a smoker...

when it sounds like it's idling high is the actual RPMs showing over 700ish
When the car first starts, the RPMs are over 1k. After awhile, or after I shift it, they drop down to about 600-900. The idle also moves a good bit while running. I think cleaning the IAC and MAF will fix that. We shall see. Gonna grab a save a thread kit tomorrow.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 02:39 AM   #6
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well good luck on the thread kit....i'd take one of your plugs with you..the kits are in assortment packs so you'll want to make sure you get one that will fit your plug...don't be afraid to open the kit and test fit
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Old January 8th, 2012, 02:48 AM   #7
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> clean iac
> get rid of any spark plug that's bosch
> coil pack could be bad?
> cylinder head over heating?
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Old January 8th, 2012, 02:55 AM   #8
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lol i've already said i don't like the plugs he picked
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Old January 8th, 2012, 01:25 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by ESG-642T View Post
> get rid of any spark plug that's bosch
Originally Posted by 6ER THEN I 8ER! View Post
lol i've already said i don't like the plugs he picked
Bosch plugs suck in every way possible, total crap

Zatrekaz run some Motorcraft, Autolites, or some NGK coppers plugs instead
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Old January 8th, 2012, 02:15 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by ESG-642T View Post
> clean iac
> get rid of any spark plug that's bosch
> coil pack could be bad?
> cylinder head over heating?
Coil pack was replaced recently.

Whats so bad about the bosch plugs? I had some on the car for almost 60k miles. Never noticed any issue.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 02:17 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Zatrekaz View Post
Coil pack was replaced recently.

Whats so bad about the bosch plugs? I had some on the car for almost 60k miles. Never noticed any issue.
Reliability...google the plugs, a lot of people say to stay away from them
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Old January 8th, 2012, 02:17 PM   #12
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my car hesitated a lot with them.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 06:39 PM   #13
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spark plug threads ... stripped ... explain this ? A simple tap might do the job, but honestly I would NOT do that shit w/ the head on the engine ...
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Old January 8th, 2012, 07:34 PM   #14
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I got the new threads done and the plug in. Was not very hard at all. I made sure to stop multiple times and crank the car. This blew the shards out of the hole.

The car is running MUCH smoother now, and I bet with the new CAI it will be even better.

My next thing to watch for is the oil that is in the spark plugs. I imagine it is just some gaskets and stuff in the engine. May get them replaced later down the road.
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Old January 8th, 2012, 09:28 PM   #15
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make sure to reset your ecu ex. clear codes after changing the intake and cleaning maf etc, all that, because the ecu needs to reset its parameters iirc
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Old January 9th, 2012, 02:24 AM   #16
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I reset everything.

Drove the car about 60 miles today and its running good. I did notice about three times it would lurch while going about 70mph. Not sure why... was very random.

Next task: Suspension. I just put in new lowering springs on the front... no iso's. I have Sportlines in the front and H&R in the back. I feel a lot of vibration from the front of the car right now. I imagine it's from the no iso's?

I got an alignment, but something is still not right. The car pulls HARD to the right. Gonna take it back in and have them recheck the alignment and everything under there. Anything that would cause a hard pull to the right even if the alignment is good?
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Old January 9th, 2012, 02:25 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Zatrekaz View Post
I reset everything.

Drove the car about 60 miles today and its running good. I did notice about three times it would lurch while going about 70mph. Not sure why... was very random.

Next task: Suspension. I just put in new lowering springs on the front... no iso's. I have Sportlines in the front and H&R in the back. I feel a lot of vibration from the front of the car right now. I imagine it's from the no iso's?

I got an alignment, but something is still not right. The car pulls HARD to the right. Gonna take it back in and have them recheck the alignment and everything under there. Anything that would cause a hard pull to the right even if the alignment is good?
on the pulling part check the front sway bar end link on the side that pulls...if it's loose or the nuts come off it'll do that.
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Old January 9th, 2012, 02:30 AM   #18
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Will do...

Do you think I may have damaged something when I was on the slammed cut springs? I didn't see anything odd under there... but it just does not feel the same as when I had the H&Rs. Granted, these are different springs and no iso'
s so that may be the cause.
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Old January 9th, 2012, 02:53 AM   #19
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I think in Feb I am going to buy a Bumpsteer kit and the X2 Balljoints. That should help out with the quality a great deal.

This is what all I plan to do... in order:
  1. X2 Balljoints
  2. Bumpsteer Kit
  3. Caster Camber Plates (have camber bolts for now)
  4. Larger front sway bar
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Old January 9th, 2012, 04:07 PM   #20
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Took the car back to the tire shop today. They guy said there was not a lot he could do to fix the pull to the right. Seems odd to me since it was not doing this before.

He said he would do what he could... will see what he comes up with. Guess I just have to deal with it until I can get the upgrades I mentioned.
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