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#1 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2000 Mustang 3.8
ehh w/e the mostly stock time is
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hickory, NC
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Understeer Sucks.
What are the budget friendlyways to get rid of some of the under-steer in my car?
Current mods: New Gabriel ultra shocks/struts (stiff as fuck) Rear sway bar from a GT Eibach prokit would sub frame connectors help A LOT of would it only make it slightly better? just trying to get a plan together before i buy more parts.
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#2 |
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Regular
1999 V6 Mustang
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Wayne, PA 19087
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A bigger rear swaybar or a smaller front swaybar will give you what your looking for, but if you really want a cheap option and aren't looking for a huge change then loosen up your front endlinks a little, the more the bushings are preloaded the less free play there is in the front swaybar and the more quickly it reacts. By loosening the preload on the endlink bushings the front bar doesn't load as soon or as much thus making it act like a softer swaybar. Some people also play with different bushings such thick vs. thin and rubber vs. poly, thin poly is the stiffest and thick rubber is the softest.
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#3 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2000 Mustang 3.8
ehh w/e the mostly stock time is
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hickory, NC
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hmm, come to think of it i actually had to take the end links off when i did my spring install, so i might have gotten them too tight. i will have to try this. but, any other ideas about parts? preferably not over $150
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#4 |
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Regular
1999 V6 Mustang
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Wayne, PA 19087
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Your other options would be stiffer rear springs, softer front springs, stiffer rear shocks, or softer front shocks. If adjusting the endlinks doesn't give you the results you want a new rear swaybar or a new set of springs are your cheapest options.
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#5 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2000 Mustang 3.8
ehh w/e the mostly stock time is
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hickory, NC
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how about SFC?
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#6 |
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Regular
1999 V6 Mustang
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Wayne, PA 19087
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I can't really say since I don't have them but by removing the 5th spring (chassis flex) your car should be more prone to oversteer but I wouldn't think it would make a dramatic difference in the oversteer/understeer balance of the car. Everyone says they make a huge difference but no one ever seems to say whether they makes a difference in oversteer/understeer they all just say their cars feel a lot stiffer now.
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#7 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2000 Mustang 3.8
ehh w/e the mostly stock time is
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hickory, NC
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lol well what led to this was i was getting on the interstate the other day when i was going around a very long and very tight on ramp and it got tighter at the bottom and i stopped turning and started going straight, i almost shit my self and wanted to get rid of it lol.
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#8 |
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Regular
1999 V6 Mustang
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Wayne, PA 19087
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Which prokit do you have since there are a few options and not everyone gets the one specifically for 79-04 V6 Coupes.
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#9 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2000 Mustang 3.8
ehh w/e the mostly stock time is
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hickory, NC
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it's the progressive spring for the 99-04 gt coupe.
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#10 |
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Regular
1999 V6 Mustang
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Wayne, PA 19087
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If I were you I'd just upgrade to a solid 25mm/1" rear swaybar, this seems like the cheapest option and the option most likely to give you your desired handling balance. The bars I'd recommend looking at are the Hellwig 6801, Edelbrock 52885, and Summit Racing 720222.
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#11 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2000 Mustang 3.8
ehh w/e the mostly stock time is
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hickory, NC
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which is the cheapest? summits is 150
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#12 |
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You can also put in a softer front spring. Like others have mentioned a smaller diameter sway bar will increase more body roll in corners.
I forget off hand what the Eibach spring rates are. You can also increase more neg camber as well the only downfall is it will increase tire wear on the inside more quickly. I would also look into a good full legnth subframe connector as well if you do not have them already. They will eliminate chassis flex in the corners. You will notice after you install them that the car will have a more solid stiffness feeling. It will allow the suspension to properly work. Sway bars should be the last thing done after everything else is installed. Just my 2 cents.
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#13 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2000 Mustang 3.8
ehh w/e the mostly stock time is
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hickory, NC
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Front: 425-530
Rear: 200-300 how much do you think the FLSFC would cost to have installed by a shop?
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#14 |
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Regular
1999 V6 Mustang
Join Date: Feb 2011
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Posts: 270
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#15 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2000 Mustang 3.8
ehh w/e the mostly stock time is
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hickory, NC
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might grab one one day if one ever pops up.
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#16 |
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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Understeer? I thought the problem was massive oversteer i.e. the back end coming out.
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#17 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2000 Mustang 3.8
ehh w/e the mostly stock time is
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hahahahahahahahahaha no. its, turning the wheel but you keep going straight.
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#18 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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It depends on the shop when they weld them in.
Understeer is when the front tires lose grip and causing the front to slide hence losing steering or the rear getting to much grip. Tires make the biggest difference and sway bar properly adjusted can help. FLSFC are a must for a good foundation for a handling mustang. Oversteer is when you lose rear grip causing the rear to rotate more. The rear tires exceed there gripping abilities in a corner etc. Basically the front tires are getting to much grip in a corner. Simple fix either a tire that offers more grip or a smaller rear sway bar or a larger front sway bar. You can also adjust under and oversteer issues with spring rates too, but sway bars would be an easier solution.
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#19 |
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#20 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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That would probably be an issue with most rear wheel drive cars.
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