[Zatrekaz]

When changing plugs, I noticed a good bit of oil on 4 of them. I imagine my gaskets and such inside the engine are wearing and getting old. Now, I don't know enough about the internals to do that myself. I am considering taking it to a shop down the road and asking them to do this for me.

My questions:

• Is this a good idea? Worth it?
• If I was to buy the gaskets myself, what would I need for a decent tune-up?
• Do you think a shop would charge a arm and a leg for this?

[Tang Stang]

Oil in the combustion chamber is more than likely due to either leaking valve stem seals or worn rings. How many miles are on the engine? Just how bad were the plugs? Have you done a compression or leak-down test?

[mustangmike!]

+1 ^

[xtreme 2]

yup, was gonna say valve seals or piston rings... valve seals you can do when you put on ported heads and install a cam. If you are gonna pull it apart might as well upgrade.

[Zatrekaz]

Originally Posted by Tang Stang Oil in the combustion chamber is more than likely due to either leaking valve stem seals or worn rings. How many miles are on the engine? Just how bad were the plugs? Have you done a compression or leak-down test?

They were not horrible, but there was oil on the electrodes and half way up the threads. How do I perform a compression or leak-down test?

Originally Posted by xtreme 2 yup, was gonna say valve seals or piston rings... valve seals you can do when you put on ported heads and install a cam. If you are gonna pull it apart might as well upgrade.

I want to install ported heads and a cam, but...

1. I don't have the funds right now for that (unemployed, have just enough money for essentials)
2. I wouldn't have a clue as to how to install heads or a cam Lol.

[Tang Stang]

Originally Posted by Zatrekaz How do I perform a compression or leak-down test?

Compression test:
1. Rent/buy a compression test tool set.
2. Run engine until it has reached operating temp.
3. Disable fuel and spark.
4. Remove all spark plugs.
5. Install correct adapter into spark plug hole on cylinder #1.
6. Install gauge/hose onto adapter.
7. Run starter for ~10 seconds to achieve reading on gauge.
8. Record reading.
9. Repeat steps #5-8 on all other cylinders.

Leak-down test:
1. Rent/buy a leak down test tool set.
2. Run engine until it has reached operating temp.
3. Remove spark plug on cylinder #1 and bring the piston up to TDC.
4. Install correct adapter into spark plug hole on cylinder #1.
5. Install tool/hose onto adapter and hook your air compressor up to the tool.
6. Add air to the cylinder.
7. Rock piston around TDC to ensure rings are seated.
8. Record leakdown percentage.
9. Repeat steps #3-8 on all other cylinders.

[Tang Stang]

Either of those tests will give an indication of the condition of the rings. If the results indicate that the rings aren't the culprit, then I'd definitely suspect the valve stem seals.

[Zatrekaz]

I might just take it to a shop and have them check it out. Would be cheaper than buying the tools for a one time thing, ya know?

Gonna take one of the spark plugs by the shop and have them take a look at it at least and see what they can tell me.

I really appreciate the advice Tang Stang, reps givin.

[SALEEN961]

A compression tester kit only costs $20-$50 depending on how complete the kit is, you'd be hard pressed to get a shop to come anywhere near that price, plus AutoZone will loan you a gauge if you put down a $40 deposit on it.

[Zatrekaz]

Originally Posted by SALEEN961 A compression tester kit only costs $20-$50 depending on how complete the kit is, you'd be hard pressed to get a shop to come anywhere near that price, plus AutoZone will loan you a gauge if you put down a $40 deposit on it.

Well then, based on that:

Originally Posted by Tang Stang Compression test: 1. Rent/buy a compression test tool set. 2. Run engine until it has reached operating temp. 3. Disable fuel and spark. How do I do that? Spark I could disconnect the coil pack... but fuel? 4. Remove all spark plugs. 5. Install correct adapter into spark plug hole on cylinder #1. 6. Install gauge/hose onto adapter. 7. Run starter for ~10 seconds to achieve reading on gauge. How do I run just the starter? Crank it with the spark and fuel off? 8. Record reading. 9. Repeat steps #5-8 on all other cylinders. Leak-down test: 1. Rent/buy a leak down test tool set. 2. Run engine until it has reached operating temp. 3. Remove spark plug on cylinder #1 and bring the piston up to TDC. What is TDC and how do I achive it? 4. Install correct adapter into spark plug hole on cylinder #1. 5. Install tool/hose onto adapter and hook your air compressor up to the tool. 6. Add air to the cylinder. 7. Rock piston around TDC to ensure rings are seated. Again, how is this done? 8. Record leakdown percentage. 9. Repeat steps #3-8 on all other cylinders.

[SALEEN961]

Originally Posted by Zatrekaz Well then, based on that:

The parts stores near me don't rent leak down testers but they all have compression testers.

3. Disable fuel and spark. How do I do that? Spark I could disconnect the coil pack... but fuel?
Just unplug the coil and hold the gas pedal down all the way while cranking to turn the fuel injectors off.

7. Run starter for ~10 seconds to achieve reading on gauge. How do I run just the starter? Crank it with the spark and fuel off?
Yep, just crank the car with the coil unplugged and gas pedal all the way down.

[Tang Stang]

Exactly. You can rent the kit(s) from Autozone or pick them up from a cheap tool place like Harbor Freight and save yourself some money.

Originally Posted by Zatrekaz How do I do that? Spark I could disconnect the coil pack... but fuel?

There are multiple ways to disable fuel and spark. Pull the fuel pump and EEC fuses, unplug the coil, unplug the inertia switch, hold the throttle to the floor, etc.

Originally Posted by Zatrekaz How do I run just the starter? Crank it with the spark and fuel off?

Run the starter via the ignition switch. Just like if you were trying to start the engine.

Originally Posted by Zatrekaz What is TDC and how do I achive it?

TDC = Top dead center. For cylinder #1, you can use the marks on the harmonic balancer. TDC for each successive cylinder in firing order will be 90* apart.

Originally Posted by Zatrekaz Again, how is this done?

By using a breaker bar and socket on the harmonic balancer bolt.

[Zatrekaz]

Would it hurt to just replace both of the seals/gaskets? I kinda want to just to cover all the basis. If I was, what would I need to buy and how much money am I lookin at. Also... is this something I can do with a few days and a Craftsman tool set?

[Green_6er]

Simple test that may give away if it is the rings or not:
Smell the oil to see if it smells like it has any gas in it.

[iPAPKE]

My dads friends oil in his 03 cobra had a smell of gasoline to it- ended up being the alternator

[Zatrekaz]

Originally Posted by iPAPKE My dads friends oil in his 03 cobra had a smell of gasoline to it- ended up being the alternator

I'd like to know how something that does not touch gas or oil caused that


I noticed today that my lower intake is leaking oil. I also saw that the upper and lower intake seem to have a good bit of oil in them. I wonder if that may have something to do with the oil in the cly?

[Tang Stang]

Originally Posted by Zatrekaz Would it hurt to just replace both of the seals/gaskets? I kinda want to just to cover all the basis. If I was, what would I need to buy and how much money am I lookin at. Also... is this something I can do with a few days and a Craftsman tool set?

Replacing the rings requires tearing the engine down. You'll need more than a simple Craftsman tool set. If the results of the test(s) show that the ring seal is good in all cylinders, then I'd consider replacing the valve stem seals, which require far less tear down to R&R. Still you'll need an air compressor, an adapter to attach an air line to the spark plug hole, and a valvespring compressor in addition to your average tool set.

Originally Posted by Zatrekaz I noticed today that my lower intake is leaking oil. I also saw that the upper and lower intake seem to have a good bit of oil in them. I wonder if that may have something to do with the oil in the cly?

Where is the lower intake leaking? The intakes likely do have a good deal of oil in them. Blowby is introduced to the intake manifold via the PCV system.

[xtreme 2]

sounds like you need to save up and get ported heads and a cam...

replace all gaskets in the process, and you should be good to go unless it's piston rings...

[Zatrekaz]

Originally Posted by Tang Stang Replacing the rings requires tearing the engine down. You'll need more than a simple Craftsman tool set. If the results of the test(s) show that the ring seal is good in all cylinders, then I'd consider replacing the valve stem seals, which require far less tear down to R&R. Still you'll need an air compressor, an adapter to attach an air line to the spark plug hole, and a valvespring compressor in addition to your average tool set. Where is the lower intake leaking? The intakes likely do have a good deal of oil in them. Blowby is introduced to the intake manifold via the PCV system.

I am thinking more and more that this is a shop thing. I can see the test bein easy, but beyond that I am getting into areas that I know nothing about. Since this car is my DD again, I can't afford to mess something up and it be down for weeks.

The lower intake is leaking on the driver side front corner near the alternator. It's quite a bit of oil. I think when I get all this checked/fixed I will get that gasket replaced. Gonna replace the PCV valve as well for good measure.

[Tang Stang]

Originally Posted by Zatrekaz The lower intake is leaking on the driver side front corner near the alternator. It's quite a bit of oil.

That lends even more evidence toward excessive blowby or a clogged PCV valve. However, if the PCV valve was clogged, you wouldn't see so much oil inside the intake manifold runners. I'd at least do a compression test, as that will narrow down what is actually going on.