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Old January 11th, 2012, 12:04 PM   #21
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Damn 6ixer you broke a lot of shit...

For me:

Cam - $60
Uses stock pushrods
LS6 valve springs - $70
2V Stock Retainers - $18 from Ford
new 3.8L Keepers - $8 from Ford


What made you decide to replace the lifters?

And I am doing remote tuning for mine. $100 bucks and they will rewrite as many times until it is perfect.
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Old January 11th, 2012, 01:25 PM   #22
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^^^ Thats more like it, not wanting to put alot into this old car.
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Old January 11th, 2012, 01:32 PM   #23
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yea man, you don't have to spend $1000 in Comp gear to get your car going...

The only thing I left is out is $150-$180 in gaskets, and getting your heads checked for warpage (this is only if you take them off for the swap)
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Old January 11th, 2012, 01:56 PM   #24
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I wanted to make sure thqt once I was done tht nothing would should break for another 100k miles
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Old January 11th, 2012, 02:07 PM   #25
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Plus the cam it self and the springs. And....AND full windstar I got from greenmustang00 for 250 plus 9.00 shipping so I equate that as a win lol
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Old January 11th, 2012, 02:10 PM   #26
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Nothings cheap gotta pay to play you can't skimp out on the engine lol not saying xtreme is butt there's a fine line
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Old January 11th, 2012, 02:20 PM   #27
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I am a shop owner so I got the cam on discount, but everything else i quoted is true prices.
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Old January 11th, 2012, 02:53 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by 6ixer View Post
Only terrorists hijack and mike is the whitest person I've seen in the forums (you tube vid) he ain not terroist

Beprepared to tare down the engine and break shit and replace

Its gunna cost a lot more thant you think yes
Cam is mid to high 300s maybe 290ish for mine
Roller lifters are mid 100 (150ish) didn't fuck with
New rods are a little over 100 only bought them for the intakes, exhaust were the correct size still
Retainer and valve keepers total will run you a little ovr 100 GT retainers to save money paired w/ LS springs, stock keepers are fine
Springs will run wou mid to high 100! above, but I did buy comp cams beehives and retainers that they recommend for the max energy cam
Plus you gaksets which I bout a kit which rand me 184.99 that does get stupid ... I used RTV on a few gaskets
Oil pan lol I broke ran me 125 fail, but I did break my HB pulley so I bought a udp
Heater by past tube 106 (I broke) how in the hell did you break that ...
Countless cans of brake cleaner/catyalsit yes
Silcone in a tube rtv yes
Tools unless your a mech you'll need
15 mm 14 mm 13 mm 8 mm sockets and wrenchs torque wrench and inch pound wrench
no issue for me

I sent my heads out for cleaning and chekcing tht cost me 210

I just had my heads pressure checked and the gasket surface checked, all was good, he told me 10$, all I had was 20 bill, and he only had a 5 for change. So I said screw it, 15$ would work ...

Then there's the variable of shit you can break tht I didn't and good knows much tht will cost you...

yup ...

Oh timing chain and timing cover gasket and timing gear it self
And who knows how many times on the dyno

my chain is stock, I have a spare also, used ...
gasket I used RTV on it and water pump
Dyno tune was 400$ + tax, and from here on out I only get chaged an hourly rate for dyno time


Mike if you don't mind tellin how much you spent on a dyno id like to know so I can expect some what what I need to save for lol
Your basic cam swap depending on how you spend is gonna run you 700-1000$ w/ all the gaskets and this and that and all that bs.

If you want it to run good, you need a dyno tune, which requires a chip or hand held tuner, and not an ebay chip, and SCT type chip.

Thats 400 almost, double that for the dyno charge.
And your car is just NOT going to sound cammed w/o a good exhaust either high flow cats or O/R ... you spend accordingly ...
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Old January 11th, 2012, 02:57 PM   #29
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its all good though, in a year ive bought due to all my shit:
2 head gasket sets
2 head bolt sets
3 lower intake gaskets
2-3 round of oil
2 coolants
5+ cans of B12
2 things of RTV
hand full of sealants and thread lockers
couple of thermostats
ok fuck it im done thinking about the stupid freaking amount ive spent ...
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Old January 11th, 2012, 03:03 PM   #30
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Well remember I had a blown head gasket so and my car ran hot one summer night...didn't over heat but it ran really close to the "H" but not on it...my head with the blown gasket was milled to .011 and the other to.008...
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Old January 11th, 2012, 03:07 PM   #31
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oh ok, was wondering how the head work cost so much...
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Old January 11th, 2012, 04:24 PM   #32
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How high is your lift? Cuz I don't think stock will be fine
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Old January 11th, 2012, 04:28 PM   #33
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stock what? My cam was specifically milled to run on stock pushrods.

.52 lift
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Old January 11th, 2012, 05:10 PM   #34
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Mines .50 and my rods wernt long enough plus igot magnum rods so tht when I got 100 shot I don't bend somthing
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Old January 12th, 2012, 08:47 AM   #35
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we shall see. Crower told me it was designed for stock rod length.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 12:27 PM   #36
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Mehh how do they know the condition of your stock rods/rockers,lifters. If they are worn you might be a bit short ... lifter may or may not make up for this.

ALWAYS a good idea to put in a length checker and test it. Cause your PR's might be to long ... then you'll start Fucking shit up
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Old January 12th, 2012, 12:41 PM   #37
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Oh I plan to check it. Twice. Maybe 3 times. I have two different sets of everything, so with luck one set will work.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 12:58 PM   #38
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Install whatever your using. Put the testing Cyl in TDC.

Take tester, put in place, expand as needed. Do not let the thing change sizes until your done...

remove rocker, pull out tester. Measure down to .005
Measure stock PR down to .005.

All intakes should be the exact same. And all exhausts should be the exact same. But you should test them ALL to make sure.

If any are different. Get on summit and find your size, they sell by the .005.
Got a good deal from them depending on size and brand.
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Old January 12th, 2012, 01:06 PM   #39
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yea I gotcha.
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